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Large-scale Yunnan loach

Yunnanilus macrolepis

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The Large-scale Yunnan loach exhibits a slender body with large, shiny scales, typically featuring a mottled pattern of brown and gold.

Freshwater

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About the Large-scale Yunnan loach

This is a little Chinese stream loach from Yunnan that spends its time down low, cruising the bottom and picking at tiny foods like a mini vacuum. It is not super common in the hobby, and it tends to get mixed up with close relatives (some references even treat it as the same species as Yunnanilus paludosus), so good ID matters if you ever see one for sale.

Also known as

Big-scaled Yunnan loachLarge-scaled stone loachDa lin Yunnan qiu (Chinese trade name)

Quick Facts

Size

7.2 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Advanced

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

5-8 years

Origin

East Asia (China - Yunnan)

Diet

Omnivore - small sinking foods, frozen/live (daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms), plus biofilm

Water Parameters

Temperature

18-24°C

pH

6.5-8

Hardness

4-15 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a long tank with strong flow and tons of oxygen - think river setup with a powerhead, spray bar, and smooth stones they can graze and wedge around.
  • Keep the water cool and clean: aim around 64-72F, with steady parameters (roughly pH 6.5-7.5) and low nitrate, because they get touchy fast when the water gets warm or dirty.
  • Use sand or very fine rounded gravel; sharp substrate and jagged decor will wreck their barbels and belly when they scoot along the bottom.
  • Feed like you are stocking a picky bottom crew: sinking micro pellets plus frozen foods (daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms) and some algae/aufwuchs to pick at; small portions a couple times a day beats one big dump.
  • They do best in a group (5+) and they are way less skittish with lots of cover - rock piles, leaf litter, and plants that can handle flow (java fern, anubias, moss).
  • Tankmates need to like cooler, fast water: danios, white clouds, hillstream loaches; skip slow fancy fish and fin-nippers, and do not mix with big aggressive loaches that will bully them off food.
  • Watch for skinny fish and hollow bellies - they can come in with internal parasites, so quarantine and be ready to deworm if they are eating but not gaining.
  • Breeding is rare in typical community tanks; if you want a shot, condition heavy on live/frozen foods and provide lots of fine-leaved plants/moss or crevices, because any eggs that land in the open usually get eaten.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Small, chill schooling fish like harlequin rasboras or other peaceful rasboras - they hang midwater, dont bother the loaches, and everyone stays relaxed
  • White cloud mountain minnows - same kind of vibe, they like cooler fresh water and dont get pushy at feeding time
  • Hillstream loaches (Sewellia, Gastromyzon) - both are peaceful bottom types, and theyll happily share smooth rocks and good flow as long as theres enough grazing space
  • Small, peaceful danios like zebra or pearl danios - active but not mean, and they keep to the open water while Yunnanilus do their own thing
  • A group of small Corydoras (pygmy, panda, peppered) - generally a solid match if the tank has lots of floor space and you feed in more than one spot so nobody gets outcompeted
  • Calm dwarf shrimp (Amano) and hardy snails - the loaches are usually too busy poking around to care, and Amanos are big enough to not be easy snacks

Avoid

  • Fin nippers and hyper-aggressive stuff like tiger barbs - they stress peaceful loaches out and turn the whole tank into a boxing match
  • Big, territorial bottom fish like many larger loaches or aggressive catfish - they can bully them off food and prime hiding spots
  • Most cichlids (even some of the smaller feisty ones) - too much attitude, and bottom territory squabbles are where Yunnanilus lose out

Where they come from

Large-scale Yunnan loaches (Yunnanilus macrolepis) are little stream fish from Yunnan, China. Think cool, clear water running over rock and gravel, lots of oxygen, and a steady current. They are not a swampy-pond loach at all, which is why they trip people up.

If you keep them like a typical "loach tank" (warm, soft, slow water), they usually hang on for a bit and then slowly fade. They really act like a hillstream-style fish in what they appreciate.

Setting up their tank

Give them a footprint more than height. Mine spent almost all their time on the bottom and hardscape, picking and cruising, and they used every inch of floor space.

  • Tank size: I would not bother with less than a 20 long for a small group. Bigger is easier because the water stays steadier.
  • Substrate: smooth gravel, rounded pebbles, and some sand patches. Skip sharp stuff - these fish wedge themselves into places.
  • Hardscape: lots of smooth stones, cobbles, and a few pieces of wood for line-of-sight breaks.
  • Plants: they do fine with plants, but pick stuff that does not mind current (Anubias, Java fern, Bolbitis, mosses).
  • Flow and oxygen: strong filtration and surface movement. A powerhead or river-manifold style flow makes a big difference.

Temperature matters more than most people expect. Aim for cool to low-70s F most of the time. If your fish room runs hot in summer, plan for it with extra aeration, fans, and shaded lighting. Warm water plus low oxygen is where they start going downhill.

I like using two filters (like a canister plus a sponge, or HOB plus sponge). Not because they need fancy gear, but because it keeps flow and oxygen stable, and you can clean one without the tank feeling "different" the next day.

They are not forgiving about "new tank funk." Wait until the tank is mature and biofilm has started to build on the rocks. They do way better in tanks that have been running a couple months.

What to feed them

They are micro-predators and pickers. In my tanks they grazed surfaces all day, then went nuts for small meaty foods. I would not treat them like strict algae/biofilm fish, but I also would not keep them on only pellets.

  • Staples: frozen daphnia, cyclops, baby brine, chopped bloodworms, and good micro pellets that sink.
  • Live foods: grindal worms, blackworms (if you can source clean), moina/daphnia cultures.
  • Supplement: occasional Repashy-type gel foods or finely crushed flakes if they will take it.

Feed small amounts more often instead of one big dump. They are active but not aggressive eaters, and faster fish can easily steal every bite if you only feed once.

Make sure food actually gets to the bottom. I used a turkey baster to squirt thawed frozen foods into rock piles and along the flow line. That little trick stops the midwater fish from intercepting everything.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are generally peaceful, a bit shy at first, and then surprisingly busy once they settle. In a group they show more natural behavior and come out more. Solo fish tend to stay tucked under stones and only dart out to feed.

  • Best kept in groups: 6+ is a nice number if your tank size allows it.
  • They do some low-key sparring and chasing, but it is usually more posturing than damage.
  • They appreciate hiding spots that break up sight lines so the "boss" fish cannot see everybody all the time.

For tankmates, pick other cool-water, current-friendly fish that will not bully them or outcompete them at feeding time.

  • Good options: small danios from cooler water, white clouds, some small barbs, and other mellow stream loaches if the tank is big enough.
  • Use caution: super food-aggressive fish (big danios, boisterous barbs) because your Yunnanilus can get skinny without you noticing.
  • Avoid: warm-water community fish, big predatory species, and anything that likes to dig constantly in the same crevices they use.

Mixing them with faster bottom feeders (some loaches, larger gobies, big Corydoras groups) can turn feeding into a competition they do not win. Watch bellies, not just "did I add food."

Breeding tips

Breeding them in home tanks is possible but not something I would call predictable. The biggest trigger I have seen for stream fish like this is seasonal-style changes: a cooler period, then a bump in food and a run of larger water changes with slightly cooler water.

  • Keep a group with a good mix of sexes (if you can). More fish gives you better odds.
  • Give them pebble piles, cracks between stones, and fine-leaf plants or moss where eggs can disappear.
  • Condition with live and frozen foods for a few weeks, then do a series of cool, heavy water changes.
  • If you suspect spawning, consider moving the adults or moving the rocks/moss to a fry box or small grow-out. They are not dedicated egg guards.

Fry are tiny and slow to get going. Infusoria, microworms, vinegar eels, and then baby brine is the usual path if you actually get a batch.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues with this species come from the environment, not some mysterious disease. If you nail cool, clean, oxygen-rich water and steady feeding, they are pretty hardy. If you miss those, they look fine until they suddenly do not.

  • Heat stress: rapid breathing, hanging in high-flow spots, fading color, hiding more than usual. Add aeration and drop temps.
  • Slow starvation: belly pinching in, fish getting timid at feeding, weight loss even though "they eat." Feed targeted bottom foods.
  • Poor oxygen/dirty substrate: fish camping at the filter outflow and acting restless. Increase flow, vacuum dead zones, clean one filter at a time.
  • Skin and gill issues after purchase: many arrive stressed. Quarantine helps, and keep meds gentle because loaches can be sensitive.

Do not blast them with random meds just because they are hiding. Fix temperature, oxygen, and water quality first. With Yunnanilus, bad conditions cause "symptoms" that look like disease.

Last practical thing: cover the tank. They are not famous jumpers like some fish, but startled stream fish can and will launch if the lid is loose and the lights flip on suddenly.

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