Piscora
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Speckled butterfly loach

Beaufortia polylepis

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The Speckled butterfly loach features a streamlined body adorned with distinctive dark spots and a bright orange-brown hue.

Freshwater

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About the Speckled butterfly loach

Beaufortia polylepis is one of those little hillstream loaches that looks like a tiny freshwater stingray with a speckled pattern, and it spends its day suctioned onto rocks grazing biofilm. The big trick with them is not "special water" so much as lots of oxygen and brisk flow - think cool, clean stream vibes, not a warm, still community tank.

Quick Facts

Size

3.9 cm SL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

5-8 years

Origin

China (Yunnan: Nanpan River)

Diet

Omnivore leaning aufwuchs-grazer - biofilm/algae, spirulina foods, sinking wafers, plus small frozen foods

Water Parameters

Temperature

18-24°C

pH

6.5-8

Hardness

4-12 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a high-flow river-style tank: powerhead or strong filter output, lots of smooth rocks, and plenty of oxygen - they hate stagnant water.
  • Cooler, clean water works best: aim around 68-75F, keep ammonia/nitrite at 0, and keep nitrates low with real water changes (they go downhill fast in dirty water).
  • They spend their day glued to rocks, so grow aufwuchs and biofilm for them: bright light plus rocks/wood that can get a bit of algae is your friend.
  • Feeding is mostly scraping and grazing, but still offer extras: sinking wafers, blanched zucchini/spinach, and small frozen foods like bloodworms or daphnia a few times a week.
  • Skip slow, long-finned fish and bullies - fast current plus a loach that likes to perch means they do best with other river fish like danios, hillstream loaches, and small barbs.
  • Keep them in a small group if you can (3+): they squabble and posture, but spread out the drama and you will see more natural behavior.
  • Watch for skinny bellies and clamped fins - that usually means not enough food hitting the bottom or the tank is too warm/low-oxygen; also cover intakes because they will ride the flow and can get stuck.
  • Use a tight-fitting lid: hillstream loaches can climb glass and enter filter openings; cover gaps and prefilter intakes.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Hillstream-style buddies like other Beaufortia or Sewellia (keep a small group, lots of rock surface and flow so they can squabble without stressing)
  • White cloud mountain minnows and other cool-water, fast-water small schooling fish that stay in the mid to top and do not bother the loaches
  • Danios (zebra, pearl, glowlight) - active, current-loving fish that match the vibe and will not outcompete them too badly if you feed thoughtfully
  • Small rasboras that handle flow (harlequins or similar) - calm, midwater, and they leave the loaches alone
  • With caution – small, cool-tolerant Corydoras (e.g., C. paleatus) only if ample floor space/oxygen/flow are provided; avoid warm-water Corydoras.
  • With caution – Otocinclus prefer gentler flow and warmer temps; only attempt in larger tanks with varied flow zones and robust biofilm.

Avoid

  • Anything aggressive or pushy like cichlids (especially territorial rock types) - speckled butterfly loaches get bullied off the good resting spots and food
  • Nippy fin-biters like tiger barbs - they are too rowdy and turn a peaceful loach tank into a stress fest
  • Big predatory fish like larger loaches, puffers, or chunky catfish - if it can fit them in its mouth, it will try, and even if it cannot, it will harass them
  • Slow fancy-finned fish like bettas and longfin guppies - not because they get attacked, but because they hate the high flow and cooler temps these loaches really want

Where they come from

Speckled butterfly loaches (Beaufortia polylepis) come from fast, rocky hillstreams in southern China and nearby areas. Think shallow water, lots of current, and algae growing on stones. If you copy that vibe at home, they act way more natural and you will see them out all day.

Setting up their tank

These guys are built like little suction cups for a reason. Give them a long footprint, hard surfaces to graze, and strong flow. You do not need a huge tank, but you do need a tank that is stable and well-oxygenated.

  • Tank size: 20 gallons long is a nice starting point for a small group; bigger is easier to keep stable
  • Substrate: sand or fine gravel, but the real estate that matters is rocks and smooth stones
  • Hardscape: stacks of rounded river rocks, flat slate, and a couple of pieces of wood if you like (but keep lots of open rock surface)
  • Flow and oxygen: powerhead or strong filter return aimed along the length of the tank; you want visible current
  • Filtration: oversized sponge plus a hang-on-back or canister works great, as long as flow is not just surface-only
  • Temperature: mid 70s F is a sweet spot for most setups; they can handle cooler, but avoid hot, stagnant water
  • Lighting: moderate to strong helps grow the biofilm and algae they pick at all day

I like to seed a couple of smooth rocks in a sunny tub or an established tank for a few weeks. Then rotate them into the loach tank. It is like swapping in a fresh salad bar.

New tanks are the number one reason people struggle with hillstream loaches. If there is no biofilm yet, they can slowly lose weight even if you think you are feeding enough.

What to feed them

Most of the day they are grazing. They are not picky once settled, but they do best if you treat them like a fish that eats off surfaces, not a fish that chases food in open water.

  • Staples: algae wafers, spirulina tabs, and sinking omnivore pellets (small ones)
  • Fresh foods: blanched zucchini, cucumber, spinach, green beans (clip or weigh it down)
  • Protein a couple times a week: frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, or repashy-style gel foods
  • Natural grazing: mature rocks with green algae and brown biofilm

Feed after lights out sometimes. In a community tank, faster fish will steal the sinking foods before the loaches get a shot. Dropping in a wafer in a high-flow spot helps it break up and spread.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are peaceful, but not timid. You will see little shoving matches over favorite rocks, especially between males, but it is usually more posturing than damage. Keeping a small group spreads out the drama and makes them bolder.

  • Good tankmates: other hillstream-friendly fish like white cloud mountain minnows, danios that like flow, small barbs, and many peaceful loaches
  • Also works: shrimp and snails (adults are usually fine, though tiny shrimplets can go missing in any fish tank)
  • Avoid: big aggressive fish, fin nippers, and slow fancy fish that hate current (they will be miserable in a hillstream setup)

If you see one parked right in the strongest flow all day, that is normal. They like it. A loach hiding constantly is usually telling you something is off (stress, not enough oxygen, or being outcompeted for food).

Breeding tips

Breeding Beaufortia in home aquariums happens, but it is not as predictable as, say, livebearers. Most success stories look like this: a well-established, high-flow tank, lots of grazing, heavy feeding, and big cool water changes that mimic rain.

  • Keep a group: 5-8 gives you better odds of both sexes and more natural behavior
  • Condition them: lots of biofilm plus extra frozen foods for a few weeks
  • Trigger: a slightly cooler water change and increased flow can help
  • Egg safety: if they spawn, eggs can get eaten; lots of rock cracks and coarse gravel areas may give some a chance

If you ever spot tiny copies clinging to glass or rocks, do not over-clean. Let biofilm build and offer powdered foods or crushed spirulina wafers.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues with speckled butterfly loaches are really "hillstream problems" - not enough oxygen, not enough mature grazing, or heat and waste building up.

  • Slow weight loss: belly looks pinched or flat instead of nicely rounded - usually not enough biofilm or they are losing food to faster fish
  • Gasping or hanging near the surface: low oxygen, poor circulation, or a dirty filter slowing flow
  • Fin damage or scrapes: sharp rocks or rough decor - they press their bodies against surfaces a lot
  • Ich and other parasites: often shows up after shipping stress; quarantine helps a ton
  • Sudden deaths after a "med spree": they can be sensitive, especially to strong meds in low-oxygen tanks

A lot of medications reduce oxygen levels or irritate gills. If you have to treat the tank, crank up aeration and flow and watch them closely.

Avoid ammonia and nitrite at all costs. These fish are from clean, fast water and they do not shrug off water quality swings.

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