
Plains topminnow
Fundulus sciadicus

The Plains topminnow features a slender, elongated body with pale olive to brownish coloration and a distinct dark stripe along the lateral line.
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About the Plains topminnow
This is a little North American topminnow that hangs out near the surface and loves weedy edges, spring runs, and calm backwaters. When males are in breeding mode they get some really pretty iridescent fin color, but otherwise they are kind of subtle and "wild" looking in a cool way. Its not a seasonal killifish, so you are not dealing with the whole dry-season egg thing.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
9 cm
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
2-4 years
Origin
North America
Diet
Omnivore/insectivore leaning - small insects and larvae, micro-crustaceans, snails; in aquariums takes small pellets/flake plus frozen/live foods
Water Parameters
5-22°C
7-8.5
5-20 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a long tank with lots of surface area - they are top-huggers and get stressed in tall, cramped setups. A tight lid helps since they can jump when spooked.
- They do best in cooler, stable freshwater: think mid-60s to low-70s F, and avoid sudden temp swings. Moderate hardness and a pH around neutral to slightly basic (about 7.0-8.0) tends to go smoothly.
- Run gentle filtration and add floating plants (frogbit, water lettuce) plus some stem plants - they like cover at the surface and will hang under it all day. Leave open lanes up top so they can cruise and feed.
- Feed like they are surface hunters: small floating pellets, crushed flakes, and lots of live or frozen stuff like daphnia, baby brine, and mosquito larvae. Small meals 1-2 times a day beats dumping a big wad that sinks and rots.
- They are usually peaceful but can be nippy if crowded, especially with slow fancy-finned fish. Good tankmates are other calm, similar-sized North American fish (darters that stay on the bottom, shiners, small sunfish juveniles) and avoid big bullies or fin-heavy show fish.
- Breeding is pretty doable: warm them a bit and feed heavy on live foods, then give them a spawning mop or dense fine-leaf plants near the surface. Pull the mop/eggs to a separate container because adults will snack on eggs and tiny fry.
- Watch for surface film and low oxygen - they spend their life at the top, so a slick film can mess with feeding and breathing. If they start gulping more than usual or clamping fins, check ammonia/nitrite and bump surface agitation.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other small, calm native minnows like fathead minnows or emerald shiners - they match the same vibe, stay in the middle/top, and nobody gets pushed around
- Darters (johnny darter, rainbow darter) - they stick to the bottom, ignore the topminnows, and everybody keeps to their own lane
- Small, peaceful bottom dwellers like Corydoras - good cleanup crew, no fin drama, and they do not compete much for the same space
- Hillstream loaches (in cooler, well-oxygenated setups) - they are all business on the rocks and the topminnows cruise up top
- Chill livebearers like platies (or guppies if you are not keeping super long-finned strains) - similar size and attitude, just keep the tank covered because topminnows can jump
- Small, mellow sunfish relatives like pygmy sunfish (Elassoma) - works if the tank is planted and not too warm, since they are both peaceful and not pushy at feeding time
Avoid
- Fin-nippers and hyper fish like tiger barbs - they will harass the topminnows and turn a calm group into stressed-out hiders
- Aggressive or boisterous cichlids (convicts, most mbuna, bigger Central Americans) - too much attitude and they can outright bully or eat them
- Bigger predatory fish that look at small top fish as snacks (largemouth-type bass, larger sunfish, big gouramis) - if it fits in the mouth, it is on the menu
Where they come from
Plains topminnows are a native North American killifish from the Great Plains region (Nebraska, Kansas, parts of Colorado and nearby). In the wild I think of them as "ditch and backwater" fish - slow creeks, ponds, oxbows, and weedy margins where the water can get warm in summer and pretty chilly in winter.
That background explains a lot: they like cover near the surface, they are tough once settled, and they do best in tanks that feel a bit "natural" instead of sterile.
Setting up their tank
Give them floor space and surface cover more than height. A 20-long is a sweet spot for a small group, but a 10-gallon can work for a trio if you stay on top of maintenance. They are jumpers, so a lid is not optional.
- Tank size: 20-long for 6-10 fish is comfortable; bigger is even easier
- Filtration: gentle flow (sponge filter or a baffled HOB). They do not love being blasted around
- Hardscape/plants: dense plants up top (guppy grass, hornwort, water sprite, frogbit) plus some open swimming lanes
- Substrate: anything works, but dark sand/gravel makes their colors look nicer and calms them down
- Lid: tight fitting, cover gaps around airline/heater cords
I get the best behavior out of them when the surface is "messy" - floating plants and stems reaching the top. If the top is bare and bright, they stay twitchy and you see more chasing.
Water-wise, they are pretty flexible. Neutral to moderately hard water is totally fine. I aim for stable, clean water over chasing exact numbers. Temperature in the low-to-mid 70s F works well, and they can handle cooler water too. If you keep them warm year-round, they will still do fine, but you may see a shorter lifespan and more nonstop spawning behavior.
Cycling matters with these guys. They are tough, but they are not magic. New tanks with swinging ammonia/nitrite will knock them around fast.
Feeding
Plains topminnows are surface pickers. They will eat flakes and small pellets, but they really come alive on small live and frozen foods. If you have ever kept other Fundulus, you will recognize that "always hungry, always hunting" vibe.
- Staples: good quality flake, small floating pellets, crushed pellets for smaller fish
- Frozen: daphnia, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, chopped bloodworms (as a treat)
- Live (great if you can): mosquito larvae (where legal), daphnia, grindal worms, baby brine shrimp
Feed small amounts once or twice a day. If you dump in a lot at once, the bold fish will hog it and the shy ones hang back. I like to spread food across the surface so everybody gets a shot.
They will absolutely snack on tiny shrimp and fry. Adult Neocaridina might survive in a jungle tank, but do not expect a shrimp colony to flourish with topminnows patrolling the surface.
Behavior and tankmates
They are active, curious fish that spend a lot of time near the top. Males can be pushy with each other, especially in small tanks or in bare setups. In a planted tank with a group, the aggression usually turns into short chases instead of real damage.
- Best group size: 6+ so the attention is spread out
- Sex ratio: more females than males reduces stress (something like 1 male to 2-3 females)
- They jump: sudden spooks, feeding time, even "because" - keep that lid on
Tankmates should be peaceful and not nippy. Avoid fish that harass fins, and avoid big fish that view a 2-inch topminnow as a snack. If you want a native-themed tank, they pair well with small shiners and peaceful darters that stay lower, as long as everyone likes similar temps and you have enough space.
If you see nonstop sparring, add more surface cover first. It fixes more "aggression problems" than moving fish around in my experience.
Breeding tips
They are egg scatterers and will spawn readily if they are well-fed. The catch is they are not great parents. Eggs and fry disappear fast in the main tank unless you have a ridiculous amount of plants.
- Give them a spawning mop (yarn mop) or a thick clump of fine plants near the surface
- Condition adults with frozen/live foods for a week or two
- Check the mop/plants daily and move eggs to a small container or a separate rearing tank
- Use gentle aeration and clean water for the eggs; a drop of methylene blue can help if fungus becomes a thing in your setup
- First foods: infusoria/microworms, then baby brine shrimp as soon as they can take it
If you want "easy mode," keep one male with a couple females in a breeder setup and pull the mop every day. You will get a steady trickle of eggs instead of one big spawn, which is nice for not getting overwhelmed with fry.
Do not count on a community tank to raise babies for you. You might get the occasional survivor in a plant jungle, but most fry get picked off at the surface.
Common problems to watch for
- Jumping: the #1 killer. Tight lid, block gaps, keep water level a little lower if you have a rimless tank
- Shredded fins from male sparring: usually fixed with more plants, a larger group, or a better male-to-female ratio
- Getting outcompeted at feeding time by faster midwater fish: feed at the surface and spread it out
- Skinny fish: they look "fine" but lose weight if the diet is too dry-only. Add frozen/live foods
- Ich/velvet after shipping or temperature swings: quarantine new fish and avoid rapid temp changes
- Egg fungus in breeding setups: improve cleanliness, add gentle aeration, and remove bad eggs promptly
If something seems off, look at the simple stuff first: are they spooking (no cover), are they getting pushed around (too many males), and are you feeding foods that match a surface hunter? Fixing those three clears up most headaches with this species.
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