Epulu alestid

Where they come from

Epulu alestids (Brachyalestes epuluensis) come from the Congo basin, around the Epulu River area. Think clear-to-tannish forest water, steady current, lots of structure, and plenty of insect life dropping in from overhanging plants. They feel like a "river tetra" more than a still-water community fish.

Setting up their tank

Give them room to cruise. They are not a sit-and-peck fish. I have had the best luck with a longer tank where they can school and turn without constantly slamming the glass. Strong filtration helps because these guys eat like little piranhas and they like clean water.

• Tank size: I would start at 30 gallons for a group, 40+ if you want a nice mixed African river community
• Group size: 8-12 is where they relax and stop acting jumpy
• Flow/filtration: moderate to strong flow, with good oxygenation (spray bar or powerhead aimed along the back works well)
• Decor: sand or smooth gravel, driftwood and rounded rocks, and plants along the edges (open swimming lane in the middle)
• Lighting: not too intense; some floating plants or shaded areas makes them bolder

Water-wise, you do not need to chase weird numbers. Aim for stable, clean freshwater with a neutral-ish pH and moderate hardness. If your tap is very hard and alkaline, they can still do fine, but you will usually see better color and calmer behavior in slightly softer water. More than anything, they hate old, dirty water and sudden swings.

What to feed them

These are eager, surface-to-midwater feeders. Mine hit food hard and will outcompete slower fish, so you have to feed with that in mind. I rotate foods a lot because they respond quickly in body shape and color.

• Staples: quality flake or small pellets (they take pellets once they figure them out)
• Frozen: daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms (not every day), mysis if the pieces are small enough
• Live (great for conditioning): mosquito larvae, live daphnia, baby brine shrimp
• Extras: finely chopped krill or prawn occasionally if you want them to pack on size

If you keep them with bottom fish, drop a little food at the far end after the alestids are distracted at the surface. Otherwise the bottom crew will stare at you like you forgot them.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are active, schooling, and a bit boisterous. In a proper group they look coordinated and confident, but in a small group they can get nippy or nervous. Most of the "aggression" you see is really just fast fish sorting out pecking order and chasing in open water.

• Good tankmates: other similar-sized African tetras, Synodontis catfish, peaceful barbs, some larger Corydoras, African butterflyfish (with caution), smaller Congo/riverine cichlids that are not fin-biters
• Avoid: long-finned slow fish (angelfish, fancy guppies), tiny nano fish they might harass, and overly aggressive cichlids that will keep them pinned in corners
• Plants: they usually ignore tougher plants, but they can uproot delicate stems if they are constantly spooked and dashing around

Breeding tips

Breeding them is doable, but not as straightforward as some egg-scattering tetras because they are enthusiastic egg eaters and the adults are quick. I have only gotten consistent results by giving the eggs a way to fall out of reach.

• Set up a separate breeding tank (10-20 gallons) with a sponge filter and a tight lid
• Use a thick layer of marbles, a plastic egg crate grid, or dense spawning mops so eggs drop where adults cannot reach
• Condition adults for 1-2 weeks on live/frozen foods (daphnia and mosquito larvae work great)
• Spawn triggers: slightly cooler water change followed by warming back up, plus dim lighting in the morning
• Pull the adults right after spawning or you will get zero fry

Fry are small and need tiny food at first. Infusoria, rotifers, or commercial fry powders help for the first days, then baby brine shrimp once they can take it. Keep the water clean but do gentle changes because small fry do not like being blasted around.

Common problems to watch for

• Jumping: the number one "mystery loss" with these fish
• Stress and skittish behavior: happens in small groups, bright bare tanks, or with aggressive tankmates
• Fin nipping: usually crowding, too few individuals, or not enough feeding variety
• Ich after shipping: they can come in stressed; quarantine helps a lot
• Bloat/constipation: often from heavy dry foods and big feedings

They are an intermediate fish mostly because they are fast, sensitive to sloppy water, and they need a real group plus a lid. Once you have those bases covered, they are hardy and a ton of fun to watch.