
Hartt's banjo catfish
Bunocephalus hartti

The Hartt's banjo catfish features a flattened body, mottled brown and beige coloration, and a distinctive head shaped like a banjo.
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About the Hartt's banjo catfish
Bunocephalus hartti is a tiny little banjo catfish from the Sao Francisco basin in Brazil that lives its best life looking like a dead leaf and pretending it does not exist. Give it sand and leaf litter and it will vanish for days, then suddenly pop out at night like a little cryptid vacuuming up food off the bottom.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
5.8 cm SL (2.3 inches SL)
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
South America (Brazil - rio Sao Francisco basin)
Diet
Carnivore/invertivore - sinking micro-pellets, frozen foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp), live worms; feeds mostly at night
Water Parameters
23-28°C
6-8
5-19 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 23-28°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give Hartt's banjo catfish a soft sand bottom and lots of leaf litter or smooth caves - they like to bury and wedge themselves in, and sharp gravel can beat up their belly.
- Keep the water on the warm side (around 74-80F) with a stable, low-to-moderate flow; they get twitchy when parameters swing, especially if nitrate creeps up.
- They are basically invisible by day, so plan the tank like a night fish tank: dim lighting, shady cover, and no powerhead blasting their favorite resting spots.
- Feed after lights-out: sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, chopped earthworms, and shrimp are all hits; target feeding with tongs helps if faster fish are stealing everything.
- Skip tiny tankmates like baby tetras or shrimp - if it fits in their mouth at night, it can disappear; stick with mid-sized, calm fish that don't sleep on the bottom.
- Avoid aggressive bottom fish (most cichlids, big loaches, rough plecos) because banjos are slow and get bullied off food and hiding spots.
- Watch for mystery scrapes and missing barbels - it's usually rough substrate, sharp decor, or getting sucked onto an uncovered filter intake, so cover intakes with a sponge and keep decor smooth.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Small to medium, chill schooling fish like ember tetras, rummynose tetras, or cardinal tetras - they stay up in the water column and do not bother a banjo cat that just wants to hide and sift around at night
- Peaceful rasboras (harlequins, lambchops, etc.) - same deal as tetras, calm vibe and they will not pick at a catfish wedged under leaves
- Corydoras (especially the smaller, gentler ones) - they share the bottom fine as long as you have lots of floor space and you spread food around so the banjo actually gets some after lights-out
- Small Loricariids like otocinclus or a mellow bristlenose pleco - they ignore each other, just make sure there are multiple hides so the banjo can vanish without getting bulldozed
- Dwarf cichlids that are actually peaceful, like a pair of apistos in a well-planted tank - works when territories are not right on top of the banjo's favorite cave and you have leaf litter and cover
- Calm livebearers like platies or endlers - fine in most community setups, just do not expect the banjo to be out and social, it is more of a nighttime cleanup crew
Avoid
- Big, pushy cichlids (convicts, firemouths, oscars, etc.) - they will harass the bottom, flip decor, and stress the banjo into never feeding properly
- Fin-nippers and hyper stuff like tiger barbs or some serpae tetras - they pester anything that sits still, and a banjo catfish is basically a sitting-still specialist
- Anything predatory or big-mouthed that cruises at night (larger catfish, snakeheads, bichirs) - if it can fit it in its mouth, it will eventually try, especially when your banjo comes out after dark
- Super tiny tank mates you are trying to breed, like newborn guppy fry or shrimp - the banjo is peaceful, but it is still a nocturnal bottom feeder and will hoover up easy snacks when it finds them
Where they come from
Hartt's banjo catfish (Bunocephalus hartti) is one of those little South American oddballs that looks like a dead leaf with fins. They come from slow, warm freshwater areas where there is lots of sand, silt, and leaf litter. That background explains basically everything about them in the aquarium: they want soft bottoms, dim light, and food that lands on the substrate.
Setting up their tank
Think bottom-first. These fish do not care about your fancy midwater aquascape. Give them a soft substrate, shaded areas, and places to wedge into, and they will show up more and stress less.
- Tank size: 20 gallons is a comfortable starting point for one, bigger if you want a small group and more floor space
- Substrate: fine sand is my go-to; they like to bury and shuffle around
- Hardscape: driftwood, leaf litter (catappa/oak), and low caves so they can tuck in during the day
- Plants: anything that handles lower light works; floating plants help keep them relaxed
- Flow: gentle; they are not a high-current catfish
- Filtration: steady and quiet; sponge prefilters are great because they forage along the bottom
Skip sharp gravel. Banjo cats spend a lot of time pressed into the bottom and can scrape themselves up if the substrate is rough.
Lighting is a bigger deal than people think. If the tank is bright and bare, you will basically own an invisible fish. A darker setup with leaf litter and a couple of shady hideouts makes them far more likely to come out at feeding time.
What to feed them
They are bottom hunters and scavengers, but do not confuse that with eating leftovers. If the faster fish clean the tank in 30 seconds, your banjo may go hungry while looking perfectly fine.
- Sinking carnivore pellets or wafers (small enough for their mouth)
- Frozen foods: bloodworms, blackworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, chopped krill
- Live foods if you can: blackworms and small earthworm pieces work well
Feed after lights out, or at least at dusk. I like to drop food in the same corner every time so they learn where dinner happens.
If you keep them with active tetras or rainbows, use a feeding tube or long tweezers to deliver food right to the bottom near their hide. That one change fixes a lot of mysterious weight loss.
How they behave and who they get along with
Banjo catfish are calm, mostly nocturnal, and masters of staying still. You will lose them in the sand and then suddenly notice a pair of eyes looking back at you. They are not aggressive, but they are still a catfish with a mouth that can fit small fish.
- Good tankmates: peaceful community fish that stay midwater (most tetras, rasboras, pencilfish), calm corydoras, small plecos
- Use caution: very tiny fish or shrimp (babies can disappear), super boisterous feeders that outcompete them
- Avoid: big cichlids, fin nippers, anything that will pick at a resting fish or flip them around
They are not big swimmers. A long tank with more footprint beats a tall tank for them.
If you want more than one, it can work, but give them extra hides and feeding spots. They are not exactly social, more like tolerant roommates, and crowding them tends to make them even more secretive.
Breeding tips
Breeding Bunocephalus hartti in home aquariums is not something you will stumble into often. Most people never see it happen, and a lot of fish in the trade are wild-caught. That said, if you want to try, you need a mature, well-fed group, a quiet tank, and patience.
- Condition with meaty foods for a few weeks (frozen/live works best)
- Keep the tank dim with plenty of cover and soft substrate
- Try a seasonal cue: slightly cooler water change, then back to warmer temps over a few days
- Offer tight caves or leaf piles where eggs could be deposited and protected
If you ever see a banjo cat suddenly looking plumper and spending time tucked deep in a cave, do not start rearranging the tank to check. They hate being disturbed, and you will spook them out of whatever they were doing.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues with this species come down to two things: they get beat to food, or they get kept on the wrong bottom. They are hardy once settled, but they do not bounce back fast if they have been starving quietly for weeks.
- Slow starvation: belly gets pinched in, fish gets more and more inactive (target feed at night)
- Scrapes and barbel wear from rough gravel (switch to sand and keep the bottom clean)
- Stress from bright lights and no cover (add floaters, wood, leaves, and shaded hides)
- Poor water quality around the substrate (vacuum lightly, do smaller regular water changes, avoid letting mulm turn foul)
- Medication sensitivity: like many catfish, they can react badly to harsh dosing (go gentle, increase aeration, research the med first)
Banjo catfish love to bury, so it is easy to miss early signs of trouble. Make a habit of checking body shape at feeding time. If you are not seeing them eat, assume they are not eating.
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