
Minerim banjo catfish
Bunocephalus minerim

The Minerim banjo catfish exhibits a flattened, oval body with a mottled pattern of brown and yellow, aiding in camouflage among riverbed substrates.
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About the Minerim banjo catfish
This is a tiny little banjo catfish from Brazil that basically lives the stealth life - it melts into leaf litter and sand and you can go days thinking it vanished. Super chill fish, but it is one of those bottom hiders you feed with intention (sinking foods after lights-out), and it really appreciates a soft substrate to burrow into.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
4.9 cm SL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
10 gallons
Lifespan
5-10 years
Origin
South America
Diet
Carnivore/invertivore - sinking pellets/wafer, frozen foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp), live worms
Water Parameters
22-28°C
6-7.5
2-15 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give it a soft sand bottom and a bunch of leaf litter or small caves - they like to vanish under stuff, and rough gravel can scrape them up when they burrow.
- Keep the water on the slightly acidic to neutral side (about pH 6.0-7.2) and don't let nitrates creep up; they are way touchier about dirty water than they look.
- Low to moderate flow is fine, but make sure the tank is well-oxygenated since they spend a lot of time parked and can sulk in stale water.
- Feed after lights-out because they are basically a nocturnal vacuum - sinking wafers, frozen bloodworms, blackworms, and small shrimp bits work great; skip floating foods.
- Do not trust them with tiny fish or baby shrimp - anything that fits in their mouth is food, even if they act lazy all day.
- Best tankmates are calm midwater fish that will not pick on a bottom-dweller (tetras, peaceful barbs, hatchetfish); avoid aggressive cichlids and fin-nippers that will harass it when it is trying to rest.
- Watch for skinny bellies or a pinched look - it usually means tankmates are stealing the food, so target-feed with tongs or drop food right where it is buried.
- Breeding is uncommon in home tanks, but heavy feeding plus a big cool-water change can sometimes trigger spawning; if you ever see eggs, move them because adults will snack on them.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Small, chill midwater schooling fish like rummy-nose tetras, black neons, or lemon tetras - they stay out of the banjo cat's way, and the banjo just cruises the bottom and ignores them
- Corydoras (most species) - peaceful vibe match, same general water preferences, and they do fine together as long as you feed after lights-out so the banjo actually gets some food
- Otocinclus - calm little algae crew that sticks to glass and leaves the banjo cat alone (just keep the tank stable and well-fed so the otos do not starve)
- Small Loricariids like bristlenose plecos or smaller Hypancistrus - generally no drama, they share the bottom but do not bother a banjo as long as you have multiple hides and do not overcrowd the floor space
- Peaceful dwarf cichlids like Apistogramma or ram cichlids - works if the tank has lots of leaf litter, caves, and sight breaks, and you keep an eye out during spawning when they get bossy
- Hatchetfish or other top-dwellers (marbled hatchets, pencils) - keeps the action up top while the banjo does its sneaky leaf-litter thing down low
Avoid
- Big, mouthy predators like oscars, large pike cichlids, or big catfish - if it can fit the banjo in its mouth, it eventually will, and banjos do not have the speed to get away
- Fin-nippers and pushy semi-aggressive fish like tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or some larger danios - they stress everything out, and a banjo is basically a sitting target when it is half-buried
- Crayfish and big, grabby crabs - they will go after a resting banjo at night, especially during molts or if food is tight
- Tiny nano fish and shrimp you actually care about, like baby neocaridina or micro-rasboras - banjo cats are peaceful, but they are still ambush feeders and will vacuum up anything bite-sized after dark
Where they come from
Minerim banjo catfish (Bunocephalus minerim) are one of those South American oddballs that look like a dead leaf with whiskers. They come from slow, warm freshwater areas where the bottom is soft and messy - sand, leaf litter, little sticks, that sort of vibe.
That background explains basically everything about how they live in an aquarium: they want to disappear into the substrate, move around mostly at night, and let food come to them.
Setting up their tank
If you set up the tank for how they actually behave (bury, hide, and patrol the bottom after lights-out), they are easy to keep. If you set up a bright, bare-bottom community tank and expect to see them all day, you will think you bought a rock that occasionally teleports.
- Tank size: I would start at 20 gallons long for one, bigger if you want a small group or a busy community.
- Substrate: fine sand is my go-to. They like to shimmy under it, and rough gravel can wear their belly and barbels over time.
- Hardscape: piles of leaf litter, small pieces of driftwood, and a few caves or half logs. Think low and cluttered, not tall and open.
- Plants: anything hardy works, but floating plants help dim the tank. They do not care about pretty stems, they care about shade.
- Flow and filtration: moderate is fine, but aim the outflow so the bottom is not getting blasted. They are a slow-water fish.
Leaf litter is not just for looks with banjos. A thin layer of Indian almond leaves or clean oak/beech leaves makes them act way more natural, and it gives shrimp and microfauna places to live (extra snacks). Replace as it breaks down.
Water-wise, they are pretty forgiving as long as it is clean and stable. Warm tropical temps, neutral-ish pH, and low to moderate hardness are the usual sweet spot. The bigger thing is oxygen and cleanliness at the bottom, because that is where they live.
Do not deep-vacuum the sand like you are trying to polish it. You can literally suck a banjo catfish out because they bury themselves and sit still. I spot-clean the surface and gently stir small areas each week.
What to feed them
They are not algae eaters and they are not great at competing at feeding time. In my tanks, they do best when I feed the community normally, then come back after lights dim and target the bottom.
- Frozen foods: bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, mysis, chopped krill (go easy on messy foods).
- Sinking prepared foods: quality sinking carnivore pellets, wafers that actually sink fast, and small catfish tablets.
- Live foods (treat): blackworms, live bloodworms, small earthworm pieces.
Use a feeding dish or a clear spot of sand near their favorite hide. Drop food in the same place each time. After a week or two, they learn the routine and you will see them out more.
Portion control matters because they eat slowly and leftovers disappear into the sand and leaf litter. I would rather feed small amounts more often than dump a big meal that rots in the substrate.
How they behave and who they get along with
These are mellow little ambush-predator types. Most of the day they are buried with just the eyes and barbels showing, then they cruise the bottom once the tank calms down.
They are peaceful with fish that will not bother them, but they will eat what they can fit in their mouth. Tiny shrimp and very small fish can go missing, especially at night.
- Good tankmates: calm tetras, rasboras, hatchetfish, small to medium peaceful cichlids that are not bottom-bullies, pencilfish, peaceful dwarf cichlids with enough floor space.
- Use caution with: shrimp (especially juveniles), nano fish, slow bottom fish that want the same hiding spots.
- Avoid: aggressive cichlids, big boisterous barbs, fin-nippers, and any catfish that will outcompete them hard for food.
They can be kept in small groups if you have the floor space and hiding spots. You will not see 'schooling' behavior, but groups tend to make them a little less jumpy at night and spread out the bottom traffic.
Breeding tips
Breeding banjo catfish in home aquariums is not super common, and I would call it a project rather than something that just happens. They are secretive, and even if you get spawning, raising fry is its own challenge.
- Start with a group so you have a real shot at both sexes.
- Give them a mature, heavily furnished bottom: sand, leaf litter, roots, and tight hides.
- Condition with meaty foods for a few weeks.
- A big cool-ish water change and a bump in oxygenation can help mimic rainy season conditions.
If you ever suspect eggs or tiny fry, go gentle with maintenance. No big substrate vac sessions, and keep intakes covered with sponge. The first clue is often just 'the adults are acting different at night.'
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I see with banjos come from the tank being too clean-looking and too bright, or from them slowly starving in a busy community because faster fish get everything first.
- Not eating enough: they hide, food gets stolen, and you only notice when the fish looks thin. Night feeding fixes most of this.
- Barbel/belly wear: usually from sharp gravel or a dirty, abrasive bottom. Switch to sand and keep the bottom from turning into a waste trap.
- Bloat/constipation: often from overdoing dry foods. Mix in frozen/live, feed smaller portions, and skip a day if they look swollen.
- Poor water at the bottom: mulm buildup under decor and leaf piles can cause stress. Spot-clean and move a piece of wood now and then, but do not tear the whole tank apart weekly.
They are masters at 'playing dead.' A banjo catfish that is alive can look exactly like a dried leaf on the sand. Before you panic, check for gill movement, gently waft water near the head, and look at it after lights-out.
If you keep the bottom soft, the lighting a bit subdued, and you make a habit of feeding after dark, Minerim banjo catfish are one of those weird, underrated fish that quietly do great for years.
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