Lake Malawi utaka (Copadichromis pleurostigma)
Copadichromis pleurostigma
About the Lake Malawi utaka (Copadichromis pleurostigma)
This is one of the Lake Malawi utaka haps - a more open-water, sand-and-rock cruising cichlid rather than a hard-core rock brawler. Adults get a solid mid-size for Malawi, and they do best with lots of swimming room and stable, clean, alkaline water.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
19.5 cm TL
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
75 gallons
Lifespan
6-8 years
Origin
East Africa (Lake Malawi - Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania)
Diet
Omnivore leaning planktivore/insectivore - quality pellets, frozen foods (krill/mysis), occasional veggie-based foods
Water Parameters
23-28°C
7.4-8.4
7-30 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 23-28°C in a 75 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them open swimming room with a long tank (4 ft/75+ gallons is a good starting point) and pile the rocks to the sides so they can duck out of sight without killing the open water vibe.
- Keep the water hard and alkaline: aim around pH 7.8-8.6, GH 10-20, and keep nitrates low with big weekly water changes because utaka get sulky fast in dirty water.
- Feed like a planktivore: small pellets/flakes made for Malawi haps/utaka plus some frozen mysis or brine, and do small meals 2-3 times a day so they do not gorge.
- Skip fatty stuff like beefheart and go easy on big amounts of worms; if you see stringy poop or a pinched belly, back off food and check your water because bloat can show up quick.
- They do best with other peaceful-to-moderate Malawi haps/utaka and calm peacocks; avoid hyper-aggressive mbuna and fin-nippers that will keep them stressed and hiding.
- Run a harem (1 male with 3-5 females) unless your tank is huge; multiple males in a modest tank usually turns into constant posturing and beat-ups.
- Mouthbrooders: the female will hold for about 3 weeks, so if you want fry, move her to a quiet holding tank near the end or she will spit them in the main tank and they will get eaten.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other utaka (Copadichromis/Hemitaeniochromis types) in a good-sized group - they are the same vibe, open-water cruisers, and the pecking order stays manageable when you do not keep just one lonely male.
- Medium peacocks (Aulonocara), especially the less spicy ones - in my tanks they mostly ignore each other and just do their own sand-sifting and showing off.
- Haplochromine haps that are not total bruisers (Protomelas spilonotus 'Taiwan', mild-ish Placidochromis) - similar pace and attitude, and they share the midwater without constant beef.
- Synodontis catfish (multipunctatus, petricola, etc.) - great cleanup crew, tough enough for Malawi tanks, and they do not get pushed around much.
- Big, sturdy dithers like Malawi squeakers (Synodontis) or even a tough school of larger rainbowfish if your setup allows - helps spread attention when a male utaka is feeling himself.
- Labidochromis caeruleus (yellow labs) - they are mbuna but on the calmer end, and they usually keep to the rocks while pleurostigma hangs in the open water. Works best in bigger tanks with lots of breaks in line of sight.
Avoid
- Very aggressive haps (Nimbochromis, big Dimidiochromis like compressiceps in cramped quarters) - these can turn a semi-aggressive utaka into a stressed, beat-up fish fast.
- Hyper-territorial mbuna (Melanochromis, some Pseudotropheus) - too much rock-brawling energy, lots of chasing, and they love to harass anything that swims past their turf.
- Tiny, timid fish (small community stuff like guppies, neons, dwarf cichlids) - wrong water, wrong temperament, and they look like snacks or targets.
- Slow, fancy-finned fish (angels, gouramis, long-fin anything) - pleurostigma is quick and pushy at feeding time, and the slowpokes get wrecked and outcompeted.
Where they come from
Copadichromis pleurostigma is an utaka from Lake Malawi. In the lake they spend a lot of time out in the open water picking zooplankton, then ducking back toward rocky areas to rest and breed. That open-water lifestyle shows up in the tank - they like room to cruise, and they look their best when they feel comfortable staying out in the open.
Setting up their tank
Give them length more than height. These guys are active swimmers, and a long tank makes day-to-day behavior way calmer. I would not keep a group in anything under a 4 foot tank, and 5-6 foot tanks make it noticeably easier to manage male drama.
- Tank size: 75+ gallons for a small group, 125 gallons is a sweet spot if you want multiple females and a decent adult male
- Filtration: strong and steady (Malawi fish eat a lot and produce a lot)
- Flow/oxygen: moderate flow and good surface agitation - they appreciate clean, oxygen-rich water
- Substrate: sand works great, but fine gravel is fine too
- Rocks: build a couple rock piles or a long rock ridge to break lines of sight, but leave a big open swimming lane
I like to stack rocks so there are a few shaded "parking spots" behind them. Utaka will use those spots to chill, and it cuts down on spooking and pacing.
For water, think typical Malawi: hard, alkaline, and clean. If your tap is already on the hard side, you are probably fine. If it is very soft, you may want to buffer it, but the bigger win is stable parameters and regular water changes.
What to feed them
These are planktivores, so they do best on smaller, protein-forward foods that stay fairly clean. You can absolutely grow them up on pellets, just pick a pellet size they can take without chewing forever.
- Staple: quality cichlid pellets (small/medium), fed in small portions
- Frozen: cyclops, mysis, finely chopped krill, brine shrimp (as a treat)
- Dry extras: high-protein flakes, occasional spirulina-based flake for variety
- Avoid: big greasy feeds and random "kitchen sink" mixes that foul the water fast
Do not try to feed them like mbuna. Heavy veggie-only diets keep them alive, but the fish stay thin and the males do not color up the same way in my experience. On the flip side, do not hammer them with massive high-fat feeds either. Small, frequent meals keep them in better shape.
If you are feeding a mixed Malawi tank, watch during feeding time. Utaka are quick, but they are not as pushy as some mbuna. Spreading food along the length of the tank helps the timid fish actually get their share.
How they behave and who they get along with
Pleurostigma are generally more "open water chill" than rock-brawling mbuna, but adult males still have opinions. A dominant male will posture, flash color, and chase - especially if he has nowhere to let off steam or if there are too many other blue males in the tank.
- Temperament: semi-aggressive, mostly driven by male hierarchy
- Best grouping: 1 male with 3-6 females (more females spreads attention out)
- Good tankmates: other utaka, many peacocks (Aulonocara), calmer haps that are not too predatory
- Tankmates to think twice about: very aggressive mbuna, fin-nippers, and big predators that treat them like snacks
If you want multiple males, you need space and visual breaks. In cramped tanks, the subdominant male often gets pinned in a corner and fades out.
They are also jumpy if the room is busy or the tank is bare. A background, some rock structure, and consistent lighting go a long way. Once settled, they are out front a lot and make the tank feel alive.
Breeding tips
They are mouthbrooders like most Malawi cichlids. A ready female will follow the male to a cleared spot in the sand, spawn, then hold the eggs/fry in her mouth. If you have never watched utaka courtship, it is worth catching - lots of circling and flashing.
- Setup: a dominant male, several females, and some sandy areas near rocks
- Signs a female is holding: she stops eating, jaw looks "full," she stays more hidden
- Holding time: roughly 3 weeks, give or take with temperature and the female
You can let her hold in the main tank if tankmates are not too intense, but in busy community Malawi tanks she may get stressed and spit early. A quiet holding tank makes a big difference if you are trying to raise numbers.
If you strip (not everyone likes doing it), wait until you can see the fry have developed. If you do not strip, have some rockwork and cover so the released fry have at least a chance. Most will still get eaten in a big mixed tank, so do not be surprised.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with this fish come from three things: crowding, messy water, and bad tankmate choices. Fix those and they are pretty forgiving for an intermediate Malawi keeper.
- Bloat and digestive trouble: often shows up after overfeeding or a sudden diet change. Back off feeding, keep water clean, and do not keep stuffing them to "make them grow."
- Beat-up females: a male can harass one female nonstop if the ratio is too tight. Add more females, add line-of-sight breaks, or remove the bully.
- Faded color and hiding: usually stress from aggressive mbuna, too-bright bare tanks, or being kept in too small a group.
- Jumping: common during spats or if they spook. A tight lid saves fish.
- Ich and parasites: Malawi tanks run warm and busy, so outbreaks can spread fast. Quarantine new fish if you can and do not ignore flashing or clamped fins.
One of the easiest mistakes is mixing utaka with very aggressive mbuna in the same tank and hoping "they will sort it out." Usually the utaka just get worn down over time. If you want both, pick calmer mbuna, go bigger on tank size, and build in lots of visual barriers.
Similar Species
Other freshwater semi-aggressive species you might be interested in.
American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.
Amur sculpin
Alpinocottus szanaga
This is a little coldwater sculpin from the Amur drainage - a bottom-hugging, rock-and-gravel fish that spends its day wedged under stones and darting out to grab food. Super cool behavior and attitude, but it is absolutely not a warm tropical community fish - it wants chilly, fast, oxygen-rich water and will bicker with other bottom fish.
Anitápolis livebearer
Jenynsia weitzmani
Jenynsia weitzmani is a freshwater anablepid livebearer endemic to southern Brazil (currently known only from the type locality near Anitápolis, Santa Catarina). Like other Jenynsia (onesided livebearers), reproduction involves lateralized mating morphology/behavior; aquarium care guidance is not well-documented for this species specifically.
Aracu-comum
Schizodon vittatus
Schizodon vittatus is a large South American anostomid (family Anostomidae). Reported maximum size is about 35 cm standard length; it is harvested/consumed in parts of Brazil and is not commonly covered by mainstream aquarium husbandry references.
Banded Leporinus
Leporinus fasciatus
Banded Leporinus are those torpedo-shaped, black-and-yellow striped fish that look like they're wearing a little prison outfit-and they stay on the move. They've got a ton of personality and they're awesome to watch cruising and picking at stuff, but they're also the kind of fish that will redecorate your tank and "taste test" anything soft-looking.
Bandi cichlid
Wallaceochromis signatus
Wallaceochromis signatus is a West African (Guinea, Kolente basin/Bandi River) dwarf cichlid that has appeared in the hobby under trade names such as “Bandi I/Bandi 1” and “Guinea” prior to/alongside its formal description. It is a cave-associated dwarf cichlid; provide cover and caves and expect heightened territoriality during breeding.
More to Explore
Discover more freshwater species.
Ajuricaba tetra
Jupiaba ajuricaba
Jupiaba ajuricaba is a South American freshwater characin from the Amazon basin in Brazil (rio Negro, rio Solimões, and rio Tapajós basins). It reaches about 9.5 cm SL and is diagnosed by a narrow dark midlateral stripe, an elongated humeral spot, and an ocellated spot on the upper caudal-fin lobe. Wild specimens have been collected from blackwater forest streams and also oxbow-lake habitats.
Allen's river garfish
Zenarchopterus alleni
A poorly known freshwater halfbeak endemic to West Papua (Mamberamo River), described from a single specimen (~13 cm SL). Beyond basic habitat/occurrence, little is published about its ecology or aquarium suitability; assume it is a surface-oriented, jump-prone halfbeak only by analogy with related taxa.
Amapa tetra
Hyphessobrycon amapaensis
This is a tiny, super sleek little tetra with a clean red stripe down the side that really pops once its settled in. It does best in a planted, slightly tinted "creek-style" setup and looks way cooler when you keep a proper group so they school and flash that line together. If you can give it soft, slightly acidic water and a calm community, its an easy fish to fall for.
Amatlan chub
Yuriria amatlana
Yuriria amatlana (the Amatlan chub) is a little Mexican native minnow from the Ameca River basin. Its wild range is pretty limited and it is listed as Endangered, so its care info in the aquarium hobby is basically nonexistent and its availability is usually low. In the original species description, preserved fish show a dark lateral stripe with a darker patch on the caudal peduncle, and they can have tiny barbels at the mouth corners.
Andrica moenkhausia
Moenkhausia andrica
Moenkhausia andrica is a little Brazilian characin from the Tapajos system that tops out around 7 cm (about 2.8 inches) standard length. It has a neat netted (reticulated) scale pattern plus a dark spot on the caudal peduncle, and the really wild part is that mature females can have tiny fin hooklets too, which is usually a male-only thing in a lot of characins.
Anhanga pygmy pencil catfish
Potamoglanis anhanga
This is a truly tiny Amazonian trichomycterid catfish - like 1.3 cm max - so it is more of a micro-predator oddball than a typical community catfish. It is the kind of fish that disappears into sand, leaf litter, and plant roots, and you will spend way more time setting up the right micro-habitat than you will actually seeing it.
Looking for other species?