
Six-bar lamprologus
Neolamprologus sexfasciatus

The Six-bar lamprologus features a slender body with six distinctive vertical black bars and vibrant yellow to orange hues on its fins.
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About the Six-bar lamprologus
This is a punchy Lake Tanganyika rock-cave cichlid with bold vertical bars (and some really nice local color forms like the gold variant). Once a pair settles in, they get serious about their little chunk of rockwork, so the fun is watching territory defense and cave-spawning behavior up close.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
15 cm (6 inches)
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
55 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
East Africa (Lake Tanganyika)
Diet
Carnivore - meaty pellets/granules, frozen foods, small invertebrates (snail-eater in the wild)
Water Parameters
23-26°C
8-9
15-25 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a Tanganyika-style rock pile with lots of tight caves and broken line-of-sight - they get way calmer when they can duck out of view fast.
- Run hard, alkaline water: think pH 8.0-9.0 and higher GH/KH, and keep nitrate low; they sulk and bicker more when the water gets soft or dirty.
- Start with a bigger footprint than you think (at least a 40 breeder/55g for a group) because once they pick territories, the whole tank becomes a map of "mine" and "not mine."
- Feed small meaty stuff: quality cichlid pellets, frozen mysis/krill/brine, and the occasional live food; go easy on high-fat bloodworms and dont overfeed because they bloat easily.
- Tankmates need to be tough and not cave-dependent - avoid other rock-dwellers like Julidochromis or small shellies unless the tank is huge, because sexfasciatus will evict them.
- They do best as a group of juveniles and let a pair form; buying a random "pair" can turn into one fish getting bullied into a corner.
- Breeding is cave-spawning: the female usually owns the cave and the male patrols outside; once fry appear, expect the parents to crank aggression up a notch, so have extra rocks or a backup tank ready.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other Tanganyika rock-dwellers that can take a little heat, like Julidochromis (transcriptus/ornatus). They stay in their own cracks and caves, and they are tough enough to not get steamrolled.
- Altolamprologus calvus or compressiceps (1 fish or a calm pair). They are slow and sneaky, not flashy, and they do not usually trigger the sexfasciatus 'you are in my face' response.
- Synodontis from Tanganyika (petricola/lucipinnis types). They are armored, mostly mind their own business, and they vacuum up leftovers without trying to steal the cichlid's cave.
- Cyprichromis or Paracyprichromis as top-water dither fish. They hang in open water, keep the vibe calm, and they are quick enough to dodge the occasional attitude.
- Brichardi/pulcher type fairy cichlids - only if the tank is big with lots of rock piles and you are not mixing multiple breeding pairs. As singletons they can work, but once somebody pairs up it can get spicy fast.
- Tough Tanganyikan shell guys like Neolamprologus multifasciatus/brevis - only with lots of space and shells separated from the sexfasciatus rock zone. If territories overlap, the little shell crew gets bullied.
Avoid
- Small, peaceful community fish like neon tetras, guppies, and other soft-water types. Wrong water vibe and they get stressed, plus the six-bar can harass them or outright snack on smaller ones.
- Slow fish with fancy fins (bettas, angelfish, long-fin anything). They are easy targets for fin damage and constant chasing, and they do not handle Tanganyika hardness well anyway.
- Super aggressive Malawi mbuna or big Central/South American cichlids. Different setup needs and they turn the tank into a nonstop brawl, especially around rocks and caves.
- Other cave-hogging, similar-sized Lamprologines in cramped tanks (like some Lelupi/caudopunctatus mixes) - if there are not enough separate caves and sight breaks, the six-bar will try to run the whole rock pile.
Where they come from
Six-bar lamprologus (Neolamprologus sexfasciatus) are Tanganyika cichlids from Lake Tanganyika in Africa. They come from rocky, shell-strewn shorelines where there are tons of cracks, caves, and little territories. If you set the tank up to look like that, the fish just make more sense.
Setting up their tank
Think rock pile first, open sand second. These guys want a place to claim, patrol, and duck into when they get spooked. I have had the best luck giving them a big, stable rock structure with lots of broken sight lines, not one giant cave that everybody fights over.
- Tank size: I would not bother under 30 gallons, and 40+ is way easier for aggression management
- Substrate: sand is nicest for them (and for you when you are cleaning), but fine gravel works
- Hardscape: stacked rocks on the glass (or on egg crate) first, then sand around them so nothing collapses
- Hiding spots: many small caves and crevices beat a few big ones
- Filtration: strong biofiltration and decent flow, but do not blast every corner so hard they cannot hover
- Water: Tanganyika-style - hard, alkaline, and stable
Stability beats chasing numbers. These fish handle a slightly imperfect pH way better than they handle swings from constant tinkering.
I like to build the rockwork so there are at least two or three separate "zones" with visual barriers between them. If a dominant fish cannot see the whole tank from one perch, your stress level goes way down.
What to feed them
They are not picky once they settle in. Mine did best on a mix of good quality pellets as the staple, then frozen foods a few times a week. The goal is steady growth and good color, not stuffing them.
- Staples: small to medium cichlid pellets (high protein, not a bunch of filler)
- Frozen: mysis, brine shrimp, daphnia, krill (go easy on krill if you notice bloaty bellies)
- Occasional: quality flakes, finely chopped seafood
- Feeding rhythm: 1-2 small feedings a day instead of one huge one
If you are getting random aggression spikes, try feeding a little less per meal but a bit more consistently. Hangry cichlids pick fights.
How they behave and who they get along with
They are classic Tanganyika: smart, territorial, and always watching. A settled group looks great, but they are not a "community fish" in the usual sense. Expect posturing, chasing, and lots of cave politics, especially as they mature.
- Best setup: a small group of juveniles and let a pair (or a dominant fish) sort itself out with enough space and rockwork
- They do well with: other Tanganyika rock dwellers that can hold their own, in a big tank with separated territories
- Avoid: slow, long-finned fish; timid sand sifters that get bullied; tiny fish that fit in their mouth
- Also avoid: mixing with look-alikes that want the same exact niche unless the tank is large
A lot of "compatibility" with Tanganyika cichlids is really about your hardscape. If you can break lines of sight and create multiple territories, you can keep combinations that would be a disaster in a bare tank.
Breeding tips
If they are happy, they will breed. They are cave spawners, and the pair will pick a cave they can defend. Once there are eggs or wrigglers, the vibe of the whole tank changes fast.
- Give them options: several tight caves (rock gaps, small clay pots on their side, or cichlid caves)
- Let a pair form naturally from a small group of juveniles if you can
- If you want fry: move other fish out or move the breeding pair to a species tank, because parents get extra spicy
- First foods: newly hatched brine shrimp and crushed fry food once the fry are free swimming
- Water changes: small and regular beats big and occasional, especially with fry in the tank
Do not be surprised if a dominant fish decides it owns half the tank during breeding. This is where extra rock piles and spare hiding spots pay you back.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with sexfasciatus come down to stress: too small a tank, too few hiding places, or unstable water. Fix the environment and a lot of "mystery problems" clear up.
- Relentless bullying: usually solved by adding more rocks/visual breaks, removing the worst offender, or upgrading tank size
- Hiding and not eating: new fish stress or getting pinned by a dominant tankmate; dim the lights, add cover, and watch interactions
- Bloat and stringy poop: often overfeeding rich foods or messy water; back off feeding, do a few extra water changes, and keep the diet simpler for a bit
- Torn fins: normal scuffles happen, but repeated damage means someone is getting targeted
- Sudden deaths after changes: big swings from large water changes or messing with buffers too aggressively
Watch for rockwork collapses. These fish dig and wedge themselves into cracks. Stack rocks securely on the base, not on top of sand that can shift.
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