Regan's dwarf pike cichlid

Where they come from

Regan's dwarf pike cichlid (Wallaciia regani) comes from South America, from the kind of slow side waters a lot of "pike" cichlids love - backwaters, creeks, and edges where there are leaves, roots, and not a ton of current. Think shady, tannin-stained water with lots of cover and little ambush spots.

That background explains almost everything about how they act in the tank: they like structure, they sit and watch, and they pick a favorite nook they treat like their living room.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space and hiding places, not a tall empty box. A 20 long can work for a single fish, but if you want a pair or you want to try tankmates, I would start at 30 gallons and up. They are "dwarf" pikes, but they still think like pikes.

• Substrate: sand or smooth fine gravel (sand makes feeding and sifting mess way easier to manage)
• Hardscape: driftwood, branchy pieces, and root tangles so they can break line of sight
• Leaf litter: Indian almond leaves or oak/beech (adds cover and makes them act more natural)
• Caves: 2-3 options per fish (coconut shells, small clay caves, rock piles that cannot shift)
• Plants: hardy stuff tied to wood (Anubias, Java fern) plus floaters to dim the light

Filtration should be steady but not a washing machine. I like a sponge filter or a canister turned down with a spray bar along the back wall. If the surface is gently moving and the fish can sit still without fighting current, you are in the right zone.

Water-wise, aim for clean and stable. Soft to moderately soft and slightly acidic to neutral is where I've had the best behavior and best feeding response. They will tolerate a bit outside that, but they do not like swings.

• Temperature: mid 70s to low 80s F (24-28 C)
• pH: roughly 5.5-7.2 (stable matters more than chasing a number)
• Nitrate: keep it low with regular water changes (they are not fans of stale water)

What to feed them

These are little ambush predators. If you offer only flakes, you might be staring at a fish that stares back and never really eats. Mine did best with a mix of frozen and prepared foods, with pellets as the long-term staple once they recognize them as food.

• Great staples: quality small sinking pellets, micro pellets, and small cichlid granules
• Frozen: bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis, chopped krill, daphnia (rotate so they do not get picky)
• Occasional treats: live blackworms if you can get clean ones

Feed smaller portions more often at first. Once they settle in, you can usually do one solid feeding a day, with a lighter day here and there. If their belly is slightly rounded after a meal and they are still alert, you are on track.

How they behave and who they get along with

Wallaciia regani has that classic pike cichlid vibe: watchful, a little suspicious, and surprisingly bold once it claims a spot. They are not nonstop brawlers, but they are territorial and they do not bluff much.

The big rule is simple: if it fits in their mouth, it is food. Small tetras, shrimp, and baby fish are a snack waiting to happen.

• Best setup: species tank, or a carefully planned pair tank
• Okay tankmates: sturdy, similarly sized fish that stay out of their face (some medium tetras, pencilfish that are not tiny, small peaceful catfish) - depends on the individual fish
• Risky: slow long-finned fish, anything tiny, and anything very pushy (they stress easily when constantly harassed)

If you are trying to keep two, a male-female pair is the goal. Two males in a small tank is usually a slow-motion problem. Even a pair can squabble, so give them multiple caves and places to disappear.

Breeding tips

If you get a real pair, they will usually tell you. They start hanging close, cleaning a surface or a cave, and chasing everything else away. Spawning is typically on a solid surface or inside a cave, and the parents take guarding seriously.

• Trigger: heavier water changes and slightly warmer water often gets things moving
• Provide: several snug caves and flat stones near cover
• After spawning: keep the tank calm and lights a bit dim - they spook easily and may move fry
• Fry food: start with baby brine shrimp and microworms, then graduate to crushed pellets

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I see with these fish come from three things: not enough cover, tankmates that keep them stressed, and sloppy feeding that wrecks water quality. They are predators, so uneaten meaty food can foul the tank fast.

• Refusing food: common right after purchase or after a big change - dim the tank, add cover, offer frozen foods first, then transition to pellets
• Hiding nonstop: usually too bright, too bare, or too much traffic from other fish
• Fin damage: often from pairing attempts gone wrong or from bullying tankmates
• Bloat/constipation: happens with heavy rich foods - rotate in daphnia and do not overfeed
• Ich and other parasites: shows up after stress or new fish - quarantine new arrivals if you can