Piscora
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Three-lined aphyosemion (three-lined killifish)

Aphyosemion trilineatus

AI-generated illustration of Three-lined aphyosemion (three-lined killifish)
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The Three-lined Aphyosemion features vibrant red and blue horizontal stripes along its body, complemented by elongated fins.

Freshwater

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About the Three-lined aphyosemion (three-lined killifish)

Aphyosemion trilineatus is a small West African killifish from Cameroon that does best in a calm, plant-heavy setup with gentle filtration and a tight lid (they can jump). Males top out around 5.1 cm and look way flashier than females, and like most Aphyosemion they are happiest when you keep things on the soft, slightly acidic side and do changes slowly.

Also known as

Three-lined killiAphyosemion trilineatum (synonym/misspelling in older sources)Fundulopanchax trilineatus (synonym)

Quick Facts

Size

5.1 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

10 gallons

Lifespan

2-4 years

Origin

West-Central Africa (Cameroon)

Diet

Micro-predator/insectivore - small live/frozen foods (daphnia, baby brine, mosquito larvae), will sometimes take fine pellets

Water Parameters

Temperature

20-24°C

pH

5.5-7

Hardness

1-8 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a tight lid - three-lined aphyosemions can and will jump, especially when spooked or chasing food.
  • They look best and act calmer in a planted tank with cover (moss, floating plants, leaf litter) and subdued lighting; open bare tanks make them skittish.
  • Keep water on the soft/acidic side if you can (roughly pH 5.5-7.0, low GH/KH) and avoid big swings; they sulk and get ragged fins when the water is hard and change-y.
  • Feed small meaty stuff and rotate it: live/frozen baby brine, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms; they will take quality micro pellets too, but they color up and spawn more on live foods.
  • Go easy on tankmates - they do fine with small calm fish and shrimp that can hide, but avoid fin-nippers and anything fast that outcompetes them at feeding time.
  • For breeding, toss in a spawning mop or dense moss and check for eggs every few days; pull adults or pull eggs because they will snack on them when they notice.
  • Watch for velvet and fungus when they are stressed (especially in cooler, dim tanks) - new fish do best with gentle quarantine and clean, stable water rather than constant tinkering.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Small, chill tetras that stay in a group - ember tetras, neon/green neon, glowlight. They occupy midwater, don-t bother the killies, and nobody is trying to outcompete anybody at feeding time.
  • Corydoras catfish (pygmy or regular) - peaceful bottom crew that ignores them. Great combo since Aphyosemion trilineatus sticks more to the upper half and plants.
  • Small rasboras like chili rasboras or harlequins - calm, not nippy, and they don-t crowd the surface too much. Works best in a planted tank where the killies feel secure.
  • Otocinclus - super peaceful algae grazers. They keep to themselves and won-t stress the killifish.
  • Peaceful dwarf shrimp and snails - adult Neocaridina and nerites usually do fine in a heavily planted setup. Just know the killies may pick off shrimplets if they can fit them in their mouth.
  • Calm, small gouramis like a honey gourami - if the tank has lots of cover and everyone has space, this can work. Watch that the gourami isn-t a bully at the surface.

Avoid

  • Fin nippers like tiger barbs or serpae tetras - they stress killies out fast and will go after those pretty fins.
  • Aggressive or pushy fish - most cichlids, larger barbs, anything that claims territory and chases. The killies aren-t built for constant drama.
  • Bettas (especially males) - sometimes it looks fine for a week, then somebody decides the surface is theirs and it turns into nonstop posturing or ripped fins.
  • Big, fast eaters like danios or rainbowfish - they tend to hog food and keep the killies hiding. You-ll think the killies are shy when really they-re just getting outcompeted.

Where they come from

Aphyosemion trilineatus is a West African killifish from small forest streams and swampy edges where the water is usually soft, a bit acidic, and full of leaf litter. Think shaded water, tannins, and lots of cover. That whole vibe translates really well to the aquarium, and they look even better over a dark substrate.

Setting up their tank

These fish are not hard, but they do punish sloppy setups. Give them a calm, covered tank with plants and you will have a totally different experience than in a bright, bare box.

  • Tank size: 10 gallons works for a trio (1 male, 2 females). 15-20 gallons is nicer if you want a small group.
  • Lid: non-negotiable. They jump, especially at lights-on, feeding time, or if they get spooked.
  • Filtration: gentle. A sponge filter or a small filter with a prefilter sponge is perfect. They hate being blasted around.
  • Decor: lots of plants (real or fake), floating cover, and hiding spots. Leaf litter (catappa/oak) makes them feel at home and helps calm them down.
  • Substrate: dark sand or fine gravel makes their colors pop and keeps them less skittish.
  • Water: I keep mine in soft to moderately soft water. Slightly acidic to neutral is a safe target. If your tap is hard, cutting with RO or rainwater can make life easier, especially for breeding.

Keep the tank secure. Even tiny gaps around airline tubing can be enough for a killifish to launch itself out.

Temperature wise, they do well in the low to mid 70s F. I have had the best luck keeping them a bit on the cool side rather than pushing tropical-warm. Stable matters more than chasing a number, so avoid putting them in a spot that swings hot/cold every day.

What to feed them

They are classic micropredators. Mine would pick at some prepared foods, but they really light up for live and frozen. If you want good color and steady spawning, this is the species that rewards you for feeding "real" foods.

  • Staples: frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops
  • Live foods that get the best response: baby brine shrimp, grindal worms, white worms (sparingly), live daphnia
  • Prepared foods: small pellets or good flakes can work, but do not be surprised if they ignore them at first

If yours are picky, mix frozen food with a few crushed pellets so they accidentally taste the pellets. After a week or two, a lot of them figure it out.

Feed small portions once or twice a day. They will absolutely overeat rich foods like worms, and you will see it in bloating and messy water. A fasting day now and then is fine.

How they behave and who they get along with

Males are showy and will posture and chase, especially in smaller tanks. It usually looks worse than it is, but cramped quarters can turn it into nonstop stress. One male with two or more females is the easiest setup.

  • Best kept as: a trio or small harem group with lots of cover
  • Temperament: not a community angel, but not a terror either
  • Good tankmates: small, calm fish that like similar water (think small tetras/rasboras, pencilfish), and peaceful bottom dwellers
  • Tankmates to avoid: fin nippers, boisterous fish, and anything big enough to see them as snacks
  • Shrimp: adults sometimes survive in a planted tank, but shrimplets are usually free food

They can be a little shy in a bright tank. Floating plants and a darker setup make them come out and show off instead of hugging the corners.

Breeding tips

If you have ever bred other Aphyosemion, this will feel familiar. They are substrate spawners and will happily lay eggs in a spawning mop, fine-leaved plants, or leaf litter. You do not need anything fancy, just a routine.

  • Breeding setup: 5-10 gallons, sponge filter, lots of cover, and one or two spawning mops (one near the surface, one lower)
  • Pairing: one male and one or two females. Pull the male if he gets pushy.
  • Water: softer and slightly acidic helps egg fertility and fungus resistance
  • Egg collection: check mops every day or two and remove eggs to a small container with clean water
  • Incubation: eggs typically take a couple weeks depending on temperature
  • First foods: newly hatched brine shrimp is the easy button. Microworms work early too, but BBS grows them faster

A little leaf litter in the breeding tank calms the adults and gives fry more micro-life to graze on. It also breaks up sight lines so females get a break.

If you leave eggs in the main tank, you might get the occasional surprise fry in a jungle of plants, but adults will hunt them. For a decent yield, pull eggs or move the adults out after a week of spawning.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with three-lined aphyosemions come from stress: too much current, no cover, bad tankmates, or big swings in water quality. Fix the environment and a lot of "mystery" problems disappear.

  • Jumping: the big one. Tight lid and block gaps.
  • Hiding and washed-out color: usually too bright, too bare, or tankmates stressing them out.
  • Fin damage: commonly from male sparring in small tanks or fin nippers in community setups.
  • Skinny fish that will not eat: often newly imported or stressed. Try live foods, dim the lights, and give them cover.
  • Fungus on eggs: common if water is hard/dirty or eggs sit in poor circulation. Keep egg container clean and remove bad eggs.

Go slow with medications. Killifish can be touchy with heavy dosing. If you have to treat, start with clean water, extra aeration, and the mildest effective option.

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