Redseam dwarf cichlid

Where they come from

Redseam dwarf cichlids (Apistogramma gephyra) are a Rio Negro fish from the Brazilian Amazon. Picture tea-colored blackwater, leaf litter everywhere, fine sand, and almost no hardness. That soft, acidic water and all the hiding spots shape how they act and what they need in our tanks.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space more than height. A 20-gallon long works well for a pair. For a harem (one male, two females), think 29 gallons or bigger. They feel safest with clutter and shadows.

• Substrate: fine sand so they can sift without hurting their gills.
• Hardscape: branches, roots, and leaf litter (catappa, oak). Add a few small caves (coconut shells, tiny terracotta pots on their side).
• Plants: floaters and shady plants. They like dim light.
• Filtration: gentle flow. Sponge filter or baffled canister. Surface agitation helps oxygen without blasting them.
• Lid: they jump if spooked.

• Temperature: 76-82 F (24-28 C).
• pH: 4.5-6.5. Lower end is closer to their native water.
• Hardness/TDS: very soft. Aim for 0-3 dGH and 10-80 ppm TDS.
• Water changes: smaller, regular changes. Big swings stress them.

What to feed them

They are micro-predators. Small, moving foods get them going. Once they figure out prepared foods, they are much easier to keep in good condition.

• Daily staples: frozen baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, fine chopped mysis.
• Live treats: baby brine, grindal worms, mosquito larvae (seasonal).
• Dry foods: high-quality micro pellets and fine flakes. Offer in small amounts so it sinks slowly.

How they behave and who they get along with

Outside of breeding, they are polite for a dwarf cichlid, but they still care about territory on the bottom. Females own their caves; males patrol the general area. Line of sight breaks are your friend.

• Good tankmates: small, calm tetras (cardinals, ember, green neon), pencilfish, hatchetfish, and peaceful dwarf rasboras.
• Bottom dwellers: pygmy Corydoras can work in bigger tanks, but they may raid eggs. Best avoided if you want to breed.
• Avoid: fin nippers, large cichlids, boisterous barbs, and shrimp you care about keeping.

Breeding tips

They are cave spawners. The female turns bright yellow and does most of the parenting. Soft, acidic water is the secret to hatching a healthy clutch.

• Set up 3-4 small caves per female. Coconut halves with small openings work great.
• Condition the pair with live and frozen foods for 1-2 weeks.
• Water for spawning: pH 4.5-6.0, very low hardness, 78-80 F. A small cool water change can trigger them.
• After spawning, the female guards eggs and fry. The male keeps other fish away from the area.
• Feed fry: infusoria or paramecia for the first days, then newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms.
• Cover filter intakes with sponge. Gentle aeration near the cave helps without blasting the eggs.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues come from water and stress. Keep things stable, give them cover, and do not overdo rich foods.

• Bullying: not enough hides or too small a tank. Add caves and sight breaks, or rehome extra males.
• pH and TDS drift: botanicals breaking down and top-offs with hard tap can creep parameters. Test weekly.
• Bloat or fatty liver: too many bloodworms and not enough variety. Switch to brine, daphnia, and quality micros.
• Gill stress: sharp gravel or dirty sand. Use fine sand and stir small sections during water changes.
• Eggs fungusing: water too hard or poor flow in the cave. Softer water and a gentle airstone help.
• Heat and low oxygen: warm water holds less O2. Keep surface agitation and avoid crowding.