Point catfish

Where they come from

Aspidoras poecilus (often sold as Point catfish) are a small Corydoras cousin from South America. You see them tied to slower side streams and shallow margins where leaf litter, sand, and roots break up the flow. Think tea-stained water, lots of cover, and a bottom that is more "soft mess" than clean gravel.

That background tells you most of what they want in a tank: calm water, a soft bottom, and a bunch of places to scoot under when they get spooked.

Setting up their tank

I treat these like a smaller, slightly shyer cory. Give them floor space more than height. A 20 long works great for a proper group, and a 10 can work short-term for a small group if you stay on top of maintenance.

• Substrate: smooth sand is your best friend. They nose around constantly and sand keeps barbels looking good.
• Decor: leaf litter (Indian almond leaves or oak), small caves, driftwood, and clumps of plants they can tuck under.
• Filtration: gentle, with high oxygen. A sponge filter or a baffled HOB is perfect.
• Flow: low to moderate. They do not love being blasted across the bottom.
• Lighting: not too intense. Floating plants help a lot.

Water-wise, they are pretty forgiving as long as it is clean and stable. I have had the best luck keeping them in the general community sweet spot: mid-70s F, neutral-ish pH, and low nitrates. They react fast to dirty substrate and old water, so a light gravel-vac (really sand-skim) and regular water changes make a bigger difference than chasing exact numbers.

What to feed them

They are easy to feed, but they are not a "clean-up crew" that lives off leftovers. In a busy community tank, you have to make sure food actually reaches the bottom and stays there long enough for the group to work on it.

• Staples: sinking micro pellets, small wafers, and fine granular foods that settle.
• Frozen: bloodworms, daphnia, cyclops, chopped brine shrimp.
• Live (if you can): blackworms or grindal worms for conditioning and picky days.

I feed a small amount once or twice a day, and I like doing one "lights out" feeding a few times a week. They get braver in dim light, and you will see more natural sifting. Watch their bellies: you want a gentle roundness after meals, not pinched-in sides.

How they behave and who they get along with

Point catfish are peaceful, social bottom fish. They do that classic cory-style "zip" to the surface for air sometimes, then dive back down. In a group they are surprisingly active, but a lone one will stay hidden and act nervous.

• Group size: 6 minimum, 10+ if you have the space. Bigger groups look way more confident.
• Temperament: calm, non-territorial, zero interest in fin-nipping.
• Activity: most active at feeding time and in the lower light parts of the day.

Tankmates should be small and non-pushy. Think tetras, rasboras, pencilfish, small livebearers, and dwarf cichlids that are not bottom-bullies. I would skip big, rowdy fish and anything that treats the bottom as its personal property.

Breeding tips

Breeding is doable, but not as automatic as some common corys. The big triggers in my experience are cool water changes and heavy feeding with meaty foods. If they are happy, you will see more chasing and the classic cory "T-position" behavior.

• Conditioning: 1-2 weeks of frozen/live foods, with clean water and steady temps.
• Trigger: a cooler water change (a few degrees), plus extra oxygenation.
• Spawning spots: glass, plant leaves, or mops. They like clean surfaces.

If you want to actually raise fry, pull the eggs or move the adults. Adults and tankmates will snack on eggs given the chance. Gentle aeration, clean water, and a little fungus control (like almond leaf or very mild methylene blue if you use it) helps. Once the fry are free-swimming, start with tiny foods like infusoria/microworms and then move to baby brine shrimp.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with Aspidoras come down to stress and dirty bottoms. They are tough little fish, but they show it quickly with barbels, breathing rate, and willingness to come out.

• Barbel erosion: usually from sharp substrate, dirty sand, or constant leftover food rotting in the bottom.
• Skinny fish in a community: they get outcompeted at feeding time and slowly waste away.
• Heavy breathing or hanging near flow: can be low oxygen, high waste, or a sudden temperature swing.
• Hiding all the time: group too small, lighting too harsh, or tankmates too aggressive.

One last practical thing: keep the lid on. They are not notorious jumpers, but any cory-type fish can launch during a night scare. A tight-fitting lid saves you from that awful floor surprise.