White-Edged (Albimarginata) Betta

1) Where they come from (quick backstory)

Betta albimarginata (the white-edged betta) comes from Borneo, where it lives in small forest streams with tea-colored water, leaf litter, and lots of cover. Think shaded, quiet, and kind of “messy” in a natural way—twigs, leaves, roots, and gentle flow.

That wild vibe matters because these fish don’t act like your typical big-fin pet store betta. They’re more subtle, more shy at first, and they appreciate a tank that feels safe.

2) Setting up their tank

If you want albimarginata to look relaxed and actually come out, build the tank around cover. I’ve had the best luck with a small species setup: dense plants, leaf litter, and lots of little “rooms” made from wood and caves.

• Tank size: 10–20 gallons is a sweet spot for a pair/trio, bigger if you want a community-style setup
• Filtration: gentle sponge filter or a baffled HOB—these fish aren’t fans of being blasted around
• Hardscape: spiderwood/branchy wood + piles of leaves (catappa, oak, beech) + a couple coconut huts or small caves
• Plants: floaters (Salvinia, frogbit) + easy cover plants (Crypts, Java fern, Anubias) + moss if you like the look
• Lighting: keep it on the dim side; floaters help a ton

Water-wise, they’re pretty forgiving within reason, but they do best in soft-ish water and warmer temps. I keep mine around 76–80°F (24–27°C). If your tap is hard and alkaline, you can still keep them, but you’ll get fewer headaches (and usually better breeding behavior) if you soften it a bit with RO/DI mixed back, or run botanicals and wood.

3) What to feed them

These are little predators. Mine always colored up and acted bolder once they were on a steady rotation of live/frozen foods. They’ll usually learn pellets, but I wouldn’t make pellets the whole diet.

• Staples: frozen bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp (I like mixing this up through the week)
• Best “conditioning” foods: live baby brine, grindal worms, blackworms (if you can get clean ones)
• Pellets: small high-protein micro pellets are fine as a backup—train them slowly

I aim for once or twice a day, tiny amounts. If I’m trying to get a pair ready to breed, I’ll do two small meals and lean heavier on live foods for a couple weeks.

4) Behavior and tankmates

They’re not the in-your-face type. At first they can be skittish, and sudden movement outside the tank will send them zipping for cover. Once they settle, they’re actually really fun to watch—lots of subtle posturing, little displays, and “checking out” their territory.

Male-to-male aggression is real, but it’s not always constant warfare like some splendens lines. Still, I wouldn’t keep multiple males together unless you’ve got space, heavy cover, and a backup plan.

• Best setup: a pair in a well-decorated tank, or a small group only if you really know what you’re doing
• Good tankmates (if you must): tiny peaceful fish that won’t outcompete them (some small rasboras), or small shrimp/snails (shrimplets may get eaten)
• Avoid: fin nippers, fast boisterous feeders, and anything that stresses them into hiding all day

5) Breeding tips (mouthbrooder fun)

Albimarginata are paternal mouthbrooders, which is a big part of why people fall for them. The pair will spawn, and the male holds the eggs/fry in his mouth. Watching a male carefully avoid food while holding is wild.

• Condition the pair with live/frozen foods for 1–2 weeks
• Give them a calm tank with caves/leaf litter and low stress (dim lighting helps)
• After spawning, expect the male to hide more and refuse food
• Once the male releases fry, have tiny foods ready: baby brine shrimp is the easiest win

Some folks pull the male to a separate holding tank. I’ve done it both ways. If the main tank is quiet and has no bullies, I prefer leaving him where he’s comfortable. If there are tankmates or you’ve got a very nosy female, moving him can save the brood—but move him carefully and keep everything dark and calm.

6) Common problems to watch for

Most of the issues I’ve seen with albimarginata come from stress: too much flow, too bright, not enough cover, or being housed with pushy fish. They’ll stop eating, clamp fins, and basically live in the shadows.

• Shyness/refusal to eat: usually a tank vibe problem (exposed tank, bright light, too much activity)
• Bloat/constipation: often from overfeeding rich foods—back off, offer daphnia, keep water warm and clean
• Fin damage: chasing in cramped tanks or sharp decor; add cover and remove pointy hardscape
• Ich/skin issues after shipping: these fish can arrive stressed—quiet tank, stable heat, and patience go a long way

Last thing: keep a lid on the tank. They can jump, especially when startled. I’ve learned that one the hard way.