Piscora
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Boulenger's featherfin tetra

Bryconaethiops boulengeri

AI-generated illustration of Boulenger's featherfin tetra
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Boulenger's featherfin tetra exhibits a slender body with striking blue-green iridescence and elongated, delicate fins, enhancing its graceful appearance.

Freshwater

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About the Boulenger's featherfin tetra

This is a big, super-active African tetra from the Congo basin that really wants open swimming room and a group of its own kind. It cruises the mid-to-upper water and will absolutely chase down insects at the surface, so a tight lid is smart if you keep it.

Also known as

Boulenger featherfin tetraFeatherfin tetra

Quick Facts

Size

25 cm (9.8 inches) TL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

75 gallons

Lifespan

5-8 years

Origin

Africa (Congo River basin)

Diet

Omnivore leaning insectivore - quality pellets/flakes plus frozen/live foods (insects/larvae, daphnia, etc.)

Water Parameters

Temperature

22-27°C

pH

6-8

Hardness

5-20 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 22-27°C in a 75 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a long tank with open swimming room and a decent current - they are built to cruise, not hover in a tiny cube. A tight lid helps because they can spook and jump.
  • They do best in soft to medium water and slightly acidic to neutral pH (roughly pH 6.0-7.2, 2-12 dGH). Keep temps in the mid-70s F (around 74-78F) and keep nitrates low or they get edgy and washed out.
  • Keep them in a real group (6+), not a pair - singles get nervous and can turn into fin-nippers. In a school they look way better and the tank feels calmer.
  • Feed like an active omnivore: small pellets or flakes as a base, then rotate in frozen foods (daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms) a few times a week. They hit food hard, so spread it out or feed in two spots so shyer fish still eat.
  • Tankmates: go with other medium-to-large, peaceful fish that can handle movement (Congo tetras, larger barbs that are not jerks, rainbowfish, peaceful catfish). Skip slow long-finned stuff like fancy angelfish or guppies because they can get their fins sampled.
  • Use plants and wood along the sides/back for cover but leave a clear 'runway' down the middle; they use that space constantly. Darker substrate and floating plants help them color up and act less twitchy.
  • Watch for stress from cramped space or weak filtration - they start darting, losing color, and picking at each other. If you see that, think 'bigger school, more flow, cleaner water' before you start chasing meds.
  • Breeding is doable but not casual: they scatter eggs and will eat them, so you need a separate setup with a mesh/marbles and lots of fine plants. Slightly cooler water changes can trigger spawning, then pull the adults right after.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other medium, peaceful schooling fish that like to cruise midwater - think Congo tetras or similar sized African characins. They match the vibe and nobody gets stressed.
  • Rainbowfish (Boesemani, turquoise, etc.) - active but not mean, and they handle the same kind of open-water swimming without fin drama.
  • Peaceful bottom crews like Corydoras or Synodontis petricola-type cats - featherfins stay up in the water column and ignore them, so its easy cohabitation.
  • Smaller to medium, non-nippy barbs like cherry barbs - they keep up, dont have big tempting fins, and usually leave the tetras alone in a properly sized group.
  • Calm cichlids that are not pushy - like keyholes or peaceful African butterfly cichlids (Anomalochromis) - as long as the tank has room and sight breaks.
  • Bristlenose plecos and other chill algae grazers - no competition, no drama, just different lanes of the tank.

Avoid

  • Fin-nippers and rowdy stuff like tiger barbs or serpae tetras - theyll hassle the featherfins and turn a peaceful school into a paranoid school.
  • Big aggressive cichlids (oscars, large haps, jaguar cichlids) - the featherfins are peaceful and will get bullied or flat-out eaten once the cichlid sizes up.
  • Slow fish with fancy fins like angelfish, long-finned gouramis, bettas - the featherfins are usually well-behaved, but the constant fast swimming can stress the slowpokes and any fin damage tends to spiral into chasing.

Where they come from

Boulenger's featherfin tetra (Bryconaethiops boulengeri) is an African characin, from the Congo basin region. If you have mostly kept South American tetras, these feel a little different - more "river fish" energy: built to cruise, quick to react, and they appreciate moving water.

They are not the most common fish in shops, so a lot of the battle is just giving them a calm start and not treating them like a tiny community neon-type tetra.

Setting up their tank

Think length over height. These are active, open-water swimmers and they look best in a group moving back and forth. A 4-foot tank makes life a lot easier, especially once they settle in and start putting on size.

  • Tank size: I would start at 55 gallons for a proper group, bigger if you want tankmates
  • Group size: 8-12+ if you can swing it (small groups stay jumpy)
  • Flow and filtration: moderate to strong flow, with decent oxygenation
  • Decor: open middle for swimming, plants/wood/rock to break lines of sight around the edges

For layout, I like a "riverbank" look: hardscape and plants along the sides and back, with a clear runway in the middle. They use that open space constantly.

They can jump. Use a tight lid, and block any gaps around hoses or cords. This is one of those fish where you find out the hard way if you leave the top open.

Water-wise, they do fine in typical Congo-style community water. I have kept them happiest in the mid-70s F, neutral-ish pH, and clean water with regular changes. They are not super delicate, but they do get touchy if the tank is dirty or oxygen is low.

What to feed them

They are easy to feed once they are settled, but they can be shy the first week or two. Mine acted like food was suspicious until they learned the routine.

  • Staples: quality flake or small/medium pellets that hold together in flow
  • Frozen: bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, mysis (mix it up)
  • Live (optional but helpful): blackworms or live daphnia for conditioning and getting picky fish eating
  • Veg matter: not a requirement, but a spirulina flake now and then does not hurt

Feed smaller portions more often if you can. They are active and burn energy, and smaller meals keep them from stuffing themselves and blasting the filter with waste.

If they share a tank with slower fish, target feeding helps. A feeding ring or dropping food into the current so it spreads out keeps the featherfins from hogging everything in one spot.

How they behave and who they get along with

These are schooling fish with a strong "follow the leader" vibe. In a good-sized group they are confident, always on the move, and way less skittish. In a small group they can turn into nervous glass-surfers that spook at every shadow.

Temperament-wise, they are not out to terrorize the tank, but they are quick and boisterous. Very small fish can get stressed, and anything tiny enough to fit in their mouth is taking a risk as they grow.

  • Good tankmates: Congo tetras, larger barbs, Synodontis catfish, African butterflyfish (with caution), peaceful medium cichlids that are not fin-nippers
  • Use caution with: long-finned slow fish (they are not classic fin-nippers, but chaos happens at feeding time)
  • Avoid: tiny tetras/rasboras, newborn livebearers, shrimp you care about

They look their best with current and friends. If you want a calm, still-water planted tank where fish hover politely, this is not that species.

Breeding tips

Breeding them in a home aquarium is possible but not something most people stumble into by accident. They are more like other egg-scattering characins: adults will eat eggs, and you usually need a separate setup if you are serious.

  • Use a breeding tank with a mesh/screen or a thick layer of marbles so eggs fall out of reach
  • Soft to moderately soft water and slightly cooler water changes can help trigger spawning
  • Condition adults with frozen/live foods for a couple weeks
  • Dim lighting and fine-leaved plants or spawning mops give them a target to scatter over

If you try breeding, pull the adults right after you see spawning behavior. Leaving them in with the eggs usually ends with zero fry.

Fry are tiny at first, so you will need infusoria/microfoods early on, then graduate to baby brine shrimp. Keeping water clean without blasting them with flow is the balancing act.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with this fish come from the tank being too small, too bare, or too low on oxygen. They will "tell" you by acting jumpy, clamping fins, hiding, or surfing the glass.

  • Jumping: almost always a lid/gap problem, often triggered by sudden lights-on or chasing
  • Skittishness: small groups, no cover, lots of foot traffic, or aggressive tankmates
  • Thin fish that never fill out: outcompeted at meals, internal parasites (especially in new imports), or food too small/low-calorie
  • Frayed fins: rough decor, bullying, or chronic stress from cramped quarters
  • Ich/skin issues after purchase: common stress reaction if they arrive skinny or the tank is not stable yet

Newly imported fish can come in stressed and underfed. Quarantine if you can, and do not blast them with bright light and heavy flow on day one. Let them settle, then ramp things up.

If one is hanging back and getting skinny, assume it is losing the food race. I have fixed that by spreading food across the surface, feeding twice a day for a while, and giving that fish a quieter corner with cover so it can relax and eat.

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