Iris hap
Haplochromis iris
Iris hap features striking blue and yellow coloration with elongated, pointed fins and a slender body typical of the Haplochromis genus.
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About the Iris hap
A rare Lake Victoria hap that sticks to insect snacks and shows classic mouthbrooder behavior. Think medium, feisty Victorian cichlid energy - great color and attitude when settled, but it appreciates space and stable hard, alkaline water.
Quick Facts
Size
11.6 cm
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
55 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
East Africa - Lake Victoria
Diet
Insectivore - takes quality cichlid pellets and frozen foods like brine shrimp and mysis
Water Parameters
23-27°C
7.2-8.6
10-20 dGH
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This species needs 23-27°C in a 55 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them room: a 55g+ with a 48 in footprint, sand or fine gravel, stacked rocks for caves, and open swimming space; lid tight, they jump when spooked.
- Keep the water hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.3, KH 6-10, GH 8-12, 76-79 F; strong filtration with good surface ripples and weekly 30-50% changes to keep nitrates under 20 ppm.
- Feed like an insectivore-omnivore: quality cichlid pellets (some spirulina), plus frozen mysis/brine/daphnia; skip bloodworms and fatty stuff, small portions 1-2x daily, and a light day once a week to avoid bloat.
- Stock as a harem: one male to 3-6 females; males get pushy, so break sight lines with rocks and be ready to remove a bully.
- Tankmates: other similarly sized Victorian haps or calm peacocks can work; avoid mbuna bruisers and do not mix with other Victorian lookalikes if you care about avoiding hybrids.
- Breeding is easy if they are happy: females mouthbrood about 18-21 days; move a holding female to her own 20g and let her release, then start the fry on crushed flake and newly hatched brine shrimp.
- Watch for stress signs: clamped fins, hiding near the top, or stringy white poop usually means water or diet issues; do a big water change, bump aeration, and switch to lighter foods for a few days.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other tough Lake Victoria haps like Pundamilia or Paralabidochromis - pick different patterns to cut down on chest-thumping
- Even-tempered mbuna like yellow labs (Labidochromis caeruleus) or rusties (Iodotropheus sprengerae)
- Synodontis catfish that can take a bump, like multipunctatus, lucipinnis, or nigrita
- Bristlenose plecos and other armored plecos that ignore the drama
- Fast dithers like giant danios or bigger rainbowfish (Boesemani, Turquoise) to keep them out of tunnel vision
- Bigger Malawi haps like Protomelas or Copadichromis in a roomy tank with rock piles and line-of-sight breaks
Avoid
- Peaceful peacocks (Aulonocara) and mellow Utaka - they get pushed around and nipped
- Hyper-aggressive mbuna like Melanochromis auratus, Pseudotropheus demasoni, or kenyi
- Slow fish with fancy fins or small community fish that fit in a mouth (angels, bettas, guppies, tetras)
- Other Victorians that look too similar to your iris hap - expect nonstop grudges and hybrid risk
Where they come from
Haplochromis iris is a Victorian hap from the Lake Victoria basin in East Africa. Think rocky shorelines with pockets of open sand and lots of small invertebrates drifting by. Like a lot of Victorians, they are a bit of a conservation story because of habitat changes and past introductions, so I treat them as a fish worth keeping pure and healthy.
Avoid mixing H. iris with other similar-looking Victorian haps. Crossbreeding is super easy with these guys, and once hybrids are out there, you cannot walk it back.
Setting up their tank
Give them footprint over height. A 55 gallon is a nice starting point for a group, and a 75 makes life easier. I keep rock piles to break line of sight, but leave open sand or fine gravel for pacing and courtship. They are jumpers, so a tight lid is not optional.
- Temperature: 75-78 F (24-26 C)
- pH: 7.6-8.2; hard, mineral-rich water (KH 5-10, GH 8-15)
- Filtration: strong and steady; aim for 6-8x tank volume per hour
- Water changes: 30-50% weekly; they color up and behave better with clean water
- Substrate: sand or fine rounded gravel; they pick at it a lot
- Scape: stacked rocks/caves plus open swimming lanes
- Lid: tight-fitting, no gaps
Build rock piles on the tank bottom before adding sand, or put egg crate under the rocks. These fish hit the gas and slam into scapes during spats.
If your tap is soft, a bag of crushed coral or aragonite in the filter helps keep pH and hardness stable. Stability beats chasing numbers.
What to feed them
They are insectivorous-leaning omnivores. I do a quality small pellet as the staple and rotate in frozen foods. Two small meals a day is plenty; they beg like Labradors, but their guts do not love heavy feedings.
- Staple: 1-2 mm high-quality cichlid pellets (omnivore/carnivore blend)
- Add-ins: frozen mysis, daphnia, brine shrimp
- Greens now and then: spirulina flake or a veggie-based pellet
- Fry/juveniles: crushed flake and freshly hatched brine shrimp
Go easy on bloodworms and avoid tubifex/blackworms from unknown sources. Victorians can bloat fast on rich or dirty foods. One light fasting day each week helps.
How they behave and who they get along with
Semi-aggressive and very cichlid about territory. A colored-up male wants a little stage to dance on and a few females to impress. They are quicker than many Malawi fish and will hold their own, but mixing with hyper-aggressive mbuna is asking for shredded fins.
- Best setup: 1 male with 3-6 females to spread attention
- Tankmates: other Victorian haps of similar size and temperament if you are not breeding
- Bottom crew: Synodontis catfish work, but they will snipe fry
- Avoid: mbuna bruisers, large predators, and look-alike species that could hybridize
Mild overstocking can diffuse aggression, but only if your filtration and water changes are on point. Lots of sight breaks matter more than sheer fish count.
Breeding tips
They are maternal mouthbrooders. Give the male a flat rock or small clearing, and he will do the rest. Females will hold for around 3 weeks, and you will see the classic bulging throat and that quiet, careful way of swimming.
- Ratio: 1 male to 3-6 females
- Courtship: male flashes and shimmies over a rock or patch of sand
- Hold time: typically 18-25 days depending on temperature
- Fry care: if you want numbers, move the holding female to a small, quiet tank near the end of the hold and let her spit naturally
- First foods for fry: baby brine shrimp, then crushed flake
- Recondition the female after release with small, frequent, high-quality meals
If you strip, do it gently around day 12-14 and tumble the eggs/fry with yolk sacs. I prefer natural release unless the female is getting pounded by the male.
If you plan to breed, do not mix species. Even similar patterns across Victorian haps can cross, and you will not be able to tell in juveniles.
Common problems to watch for
- Bloat: usually from stress, dirty water, or rich foods. Catch it early, lighten feeding, big water change, consider metronidazole if they stop eating.
- Beat-up females: add more hides, rebalance the ratio, or pull the dominant male for a week.
- Jumping: they launch during spooks and chases. Keep every gap covered.
- Water quality swings: Victorians show dull color and clamped fins fast when nitrates climb. Stay on that weekly change.
- Misidentification: H. iris can be sold under various names. Buy from keepers who label lineage if you care about breeding.
Quarantine new fish for 3-4 weeks. A single parasite or bacterial hitchhiker can wipe out a Victorian colony quickly.
Keep a notebook or app log. If a male suddenly loses color or a female hides more than usual, check parameters first. With these fish, behavior tells you what your test kit will soon confirm.
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