Piscora
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Silver Tip Tetra

Hasemania nana

AI-generated illustration of Silver Tip Tetra
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Silver Tip Tetras exhibit a slender body with a distinct silvery hue and prominent black tips on their dorsal and adipose fins.

Freshwater

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About the Silver Tip Tetra

These little guys are like tiny sparks in the tank-silvery bodies with those warm orange "copper" fins that really pop when they're happy and colored up. Keep them in a proper group and you'll see them cruise around together, doing that classic tetra "we're all going this way now" thing, and the males will sometimes flash at each other without it turning into real drama.

Also known as

Silvertip tetraSilver-tipped tetraSilver tip

Quick Facts

Size

1.8 inches

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Beginner

Min Tank Size

10 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

South America (Brazil; São Francisco River basin)

Diet

Omnivore - quality micro pellets/flakes, plus frozen/live foods like daphnia, brine shrimp, and bloodworms

Water Parameters

Temperature

22-28°C

pH

5.5-7.5

Hardness

2-15 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Keep them in a group of at least 8-10; if you only have a couple they get nippy and stressed, but in a school they act way calmer and look better.
  • A 20-gallon long (or bigger) with open swimming space is perfect-add plants/wood around the edges so they can duck in and out, and a dark-ish substrate makes their color pop.
  • They're pretty forgiving, but aim for ~72-82°F (22-28°C), pH about 5.5-7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral is ideal), and keep ammonia/nitrite at 0; they do best with good filtration and regular maintenance.
  • Feed small stuff they can crush: good flake/micro pellets as a staple, plus frozen/live brine shrimp, daphnia, or bloodworms 2-3 times a week; tiny meals 1-2x/day beats dumping a pile in.
  • Great tankmates are other peaceful, quick fish (corys, smaller rasboras, other tetras) and calmer dwarf cichlids; avoid long-finned fish like bettas/guppies because silver tips love testing fins.
  • Give them some flow and decent filtration-they're active and oxygen-happy, and they'll hang in the current when they feel good.
  • If you ever want to breed them, use a separate tank with fine-leaf plants or a spawning mop and pull the parents after spawning-they scatter eggs and will snack on them fast; fry take tiny foods like infusoria/microworms first.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other easygoing schooling tetras (black neon, glowlight, rummynose, ember) - they match the same vibe and nobody gets singled out, especially if your silver tips are in a proper group (8+).
  • Corydoras (any of the common ones like panda/sterbai/peppered) - silver tips stay mid-water and cories just vacuum the bottom, zero drama.
  • Small/medium peaceful rasboras (harlequin, lambchop, espei) - similar temperament and speed, so the tank feels busy but not chaotic.
  • Dwarf gourami types that aren't fin-showy (honey gourami is the safest bet) - they usually ignore each other as long as the gourami isn't getting hassled.
  • Bristlenose pleco or other chill algae-eaters - they do their own thing and the tetras don't care.
  • Small, peaceful dwarf cichlids like apistos/bolivian ram (in a planted tank with hides) - silver tips are curious but usually not jerks if they've got room and a decent school size.

Avoid

  • Slow fish with long fancy fins (e.g., bettas, fancy guppies) - silvertips can be persistent fin-nippers, especially in small groups or tight quarters.
  • Super timid, slow-moving fish (sparkling gourami, some small livebearers, delicate stuff) - they can get stressed by the constant zooming and chasing in the mid-water.
  • Aggressive or high-strung fin nippers (serpae tetras, tiger barbs) - you'll end up with a tank full of shredded fins and everyone blaming everyone.
  • Big mouthy predators (most larger cichlids, big catfish) - if it can fit a tetra in its mouth, it will eventually try.

1) Where they come from

Silver Tip Tetras (Hasemania nana) come from Brazil, mostly in the São Francisco river basin. Think smaller streams and side waters with plants, leaf litter, and that slightly “tea-stained” look in places. They’re not super fussy, but they definitely act more confident in a tank that feels a bit sheltered rather than wide open and bright.

2) Setting up their tank

These are beginner-friendly fish, but they reward you for giving them a little structure. A planted tank (or at least clumps of plants) makes them calmer, more colorful, and less nippy. I’ve had the best luck keeping them in groups where they can sort themselves out without picking on one unlucky tankmate.

  • Tank size: 20 gallons is a nice starting point for a proper group; you can do smaller, but they look and act better with space
  • Group size: aim for 8–12+ if you can (smaller groups can get a bit spicy)
  • Decor: plants (live or fake), driftwood, and some open swimming room in the middle
  • Filtration: any decent filter is fine; they don’t need crazy flow, just clean water
  • Lighting: moderate works well; floating plants help if they seem skittish
  • Water: mid-70s°F is a comfortable zone; they handle a range, but don’t swing it around a lot

If you’re seeing fin-nipping, don’t immediately blame “bad fish.” Most of the time it’s too small a group, not enough cover, or a tankmate that’s slow and flashy (like long fins).

3) What to feed them

Silver Tips eat like little piranhas (minus the drama). They’re easy to feed, but they really pop when you rotate foods instead of doing the same flake every day. They’re small-mouthed, so keep foods on the smaller side.

  • Daily staple: a good quality flake or small micro pellet
  • Color/condition boosters: frozen (or live) baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops
  • Occasional treat: bloodworms (not too often—rich food can bloat small tetras)
  • Feeding rhythm: small portions 1–2 times a day; they’ll beg like they’re starving

If your tank has faster fish, Silver Tips can get outcompeted. Spread food across the surface or drop a tiny pinch on both sides so everyone gets a shot.

4) Behavior and tankmates

They’re active, mid-water schoolers with a bit of attitude. Not “aggressive,” but they can be fin-checkers if they’re bored or under-stocked as a group. In a solid school, they spend more time sparring with each other and less time annoying everyone else.

  • Great tankmates: other quick, similarly-sized community fish (other tetras, rasboras, danios), Corydoras, small plecos, otos
  • Usually fine: dwarf cichlids with calm temperaments (watch during spawning), most peaceful bottom dwellers
  • I’d avoid: bettas, fancy guppies, angelfish, and anything slow with long fins (they’re basically a moving target)

Mixing them with long-finned fish is a gamble. Sometimes it works for months… and then one day you notice the fins look like someone took pinking shears to them.

5) Breeding tips (if you want to try it)

They’re egg scatterers. Breeding isn’t hard, but raising the fry takes a little planning because the adults will snack on eggs and babies like it’s a buffet. If you’ve ever bred other small tetras, it’s that same general playbook.

  • Set up a separate breeding tank (10 gallons works) with a sponge filter
  • Add a spawning mop or a thick mat of fine plants (java moss is perfect)
  • Dim the light; they’re less shy that way
  • Condition adults with frozen/live foods for a week
  • Move a pair or a small group in, let them spawn, then pull the adults back out
  • First foods for fry: infusoria / liquid fry food, then baby brine shrimp once they can take it

If you don’t want to do a separate tank, you can sometimes get a few surprise survivors in a heavily planted community tank. The trick is lots of moss and hiding spots so a handful of fry dodge the adults.

6) Common problems to watch for

Most issues I’ve seen with Silver Tips come down to stress and social dynamics. Once they’re settled and the tank is stable, they’re pretty hardy little fish.

  • Fin nipping: usually small group size, too-bright/empty tank, or long-finned tankmates
  • Ich after purchase: common with new tetras if they’ve been shipped/held a while—quarantine helps a ton
  • Faded color: stress, too much light with no cover, or just not enough quality food variety
  • Skinny fish in the group: can be internal parasites or simply getting outcompeted at feeding time
  • Sudden losses: check ammonia/nitrite first, then look for big temperature swings or a filter that got clogged

They don’t love “new tank chaos.” If the tank isn’t cycled or your parameters bounce around, they’ll be the first to look rough. Stable, clean water beats chasing perfect numbers.

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