Piscora
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Zebra pleco

Hypancistrus zebra

Also known as: L046, L098, Imperial pleco

This is the famous black-and-white striped L-number pleco (L046) from the Rio Xingu, and it really does look like a little underwater zebra. Its best traits are how cavey and secretive it is by day, then it pops out at night to hunt meaty foods - and the male will guard eggs in a cave if you ever breed them. It is not an algae-cleaner pleco, so think of it more like a tiny, warm-water, rock-dwelling catfish with attitude over caves.

AI-generated illustration of Zebra pleco
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Zebra plecos exhibit striking black and white stripes, with a flattened body and sucker-shaped mouth adapted for grazing on algae.

Freshwater

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Quick Facts

Size

7 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Advanced

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

8-12 years

Origin

South America (Brazil - Rio Xingu basin)

Diet

Carnivore-leaning omnivore - sinking meaty foods, frozen/live foods, quality pellets

Care Notes

  • Give them lots of tight caves (slate or ceramic tubes) and line-of-sight breaks - they chill in holes all day and get stressed if they can't claim a spot.
  • Keep the water hot and clean: think 82-86F with strong flow and high oxygen; a big sponge or canister plus an airstone goes a long way.
  • They hate swings more than they hate slightly-off numbers - keep pH roughly 6.5-7.5 and keep nitrate low with regular water changes.
  • Feed after lights-out: meaty foods like frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis, and good sinking carnivore pellets; don't expect them to live on algae wafers.
  • Skip aggressive or super-competitive eaters (big cichlids, hyper barbs) - calm small fish work, and watch other bottom fish that will steal caves or outcompete at feeding.
  • Breeding is basically 'cave + warm fast water + heavy feeding': males guard the eggs in a cave, so having multiple caves of different tight sizes helps a lot.
  • Common fail points: low oxygen from weak flow, wasted food rotting in caves, and skinny bellies from being outcompeted - target feed with tongs or a baster and remove leftovers.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Small, calm tetras (neon, cardinal, rummynose) - they stay midwater, dont mess with caves, and they handle the warm, clean water Zebra plecos like
  • Peaceful pencilfish or hatchetfish - top and midwater types that mostly ignore the bottom, so the pleco can do its shy cave thing
  • Chill dwarf cichlids like Apistogramma (the calmer species) - works best in bigger tanks with lots of caves so nobody argues over a single hide
  • Discus or angelfish in a warm community setup - they dont usually bother plecos, and the temps line up, just keep feeding the pleco after lights-out
  • Corydoras that like warmer water (sterbai is the classic) - generally fine if you have enough floor space and multiple hides so the Zebra isnt getting crowded
  • Other peaceful Loricariids that arent cave hogs (like smaller Ancistrus in roomy tanks) - doable, but only if you provide lots of separate caves and feeding spots

Avoid

  • Big, pushy cichlids (oscars, green terrors, convicts in breeding mode) - they will claim the bottom and caves, and the Zebra will get bullied or stressed out
  • Nippy fin-biters like tiger barbs - they are too hectic, and constant harassment keeps shy plecos from feeding properly
  • Other aggressive cave spawners and territorial bottom fish (many larger plecos, some synodontis) - theyll take over the plecos hiding spots and outcompete them at feeding time

Where they come from

Zebra plecos (Hypancistrus zebra) come from Brazil's Rio Xingu, a big, fast river with warm water, tons of oxygen, and rocky crevices everywhere. That background explains basically everything about them in aquariums: they like it hot, clean, and moving, and they want tight caves they can claim.

If you've kept other plecos and treated them like generic "algae eaters," zebra plecos will humble you. Think of them more like cave-dwelling river fish that happen to be catfish.

Setting up their tank

The tank is won or lost on water quality and oxygen. I have had the best luck treating their tank like a little river: strong filtration, lots of flow, and no detritus sitting around. They do not forgive a dirty, low-oxygen setup, especially at the temperatures they like.

  • Tank size: 20-30 gallons can work for a small group, but more space makes it easier to keep stable water and spread out caves
  • Temperature: 82-86F is a sweet spot for most groups; they can handle warm, but warm water needs more oxygen and clean filtration
  • pH and hardness: they are not super picky if stable; neutral-ish to slightly acidic is common (roughly pH 6.5-7.5)
  • Flow and oxygen: add a powerhead or strong return flow; surface agitation matters a lot
  • Filtration: oversized sponge filters plus a canister or HOB works great; prefilter sponges keep baby fish from vanishing
  • Substrate: sand or bare-bottom both work; I like sand because it looks natural, but bare-bottom makes feeding and cleanup easier
  • Decor: piles of rock and lots of caves; keep lines of sight broken so everyone can claim a spot
  • Lighting: they do not need bright light; dimmer tanks bring them out more

Use caves with one main entrance and a snug fit. If the male can wedge himself in and block the door, you're on the right track. Too-large caves often lead to abandoned spawns or eggs getting eaten.

Warm water plus weak aeration is a bad combo. If you run them 84F and the surface is glassy, you are asking for trouble.

What to feed them

They are not algae grazers in the way people expect. Mine spend most of their feeding time hunting and picking at meaty foods. They'll eat some plant-based stuff, but you will get better body weight and better breeding results with a protein-leaning menu.

  • Staples: quality sinking carnivore pellets and wafers (look for fish/shrimp as main ingredients)
  • Frozen foods: bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis, chopped krill (go easy with rich foods until you know your tank stays clean)
  • Fresh: small bits of shrimp or clam occasionally, rinsed well
  • Bonus: a little zucchini or green bean now and then, mostly for variety

Feed after lights out and you will see them more. I like doing smaller feedings more often rather than dumping a big meal in. Leftover food rots fast at 84F.

If you never see them eat, try dropping food right at the cave entrances with tongs or a feeding tube. Shy zebra plecos will ignore food that lands out in the open.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are mostly nocturnal and pretty chill in the open, but they get serious about caves. You will see sparring and shoving, especially between males, and especially if caves are limited or all the same size.

  • Best kept: in a small group with multiple caves per fish
  • Male-to-male: expect territory fights if space is tight
  • Tankmates: small, peaceful fish that tolerate warm water (avoid anything that constantly raids caves or stresses them)
  • Avoid: large aggressive cichlids, fin nippers, and anything known for eating eggs/fry or bullying bottom fish

If you want to breed them, a species-only tank makes life simpler. In a community tank they can still spawn, but eggs and tiny fry are easy snacks for just about everyone.

Breeding tips

Breeding zebra plecos is doable, but you have to stack the odds. You want a mature group, lots of caves, heavy feeding, and very steady clean water. Most spawns happen in caves with a male guarding the clutch.

  • Group setup: start with 5-8 juveniles if you can; let them grow out and sort themselves out
  • Caves: different sizes and shapes, tight entrances, placed in areas with decent flow
  • Trigger: slightly cooler water changes can help, especially if your tank has been warm and stable for a while
  • Male behavior: the male will often sit in the cave and fan the eggs; don't panic if you barely see him for days
  • Fry: once free-swimming, they need tiny meaty foods (crushed pellets, baby brine shrimp, finely chopped frozen foods)

Do not keep messing with the cave to check eggs. Curious hands can cause a male to abandon a spawn. If you want to peek, do it quickly and sparingly with a dim light.

If you find a male guarding and you must move the spawn, move the whole cave underwater into a breeder box or separate tank. Handling eggs directly is where things go sideways.

Common problems to watch for

Most zebra pleco problems trace back to the same stuff: dirty warm water, low oxygen, or being outcompeted for food. They are hardy enough once settled, but they do not bounce back fast if you let the tank slip.

  • Fast breathing or hanging in high-flow areas: often low oxygen or rising waste at high temperature
  • Hollow bellies: not getting enough food (common in community tanks) or internal parasites in new imports
  • White fuzz on eggs: fungus, often from infertile eggs or poor flow in the cave
  • Sudden losses after a big feeding: leftover food fouling the tank overnight
  • Aggression injuries: torn fins or scrape marks from cave fights

Ammonia and nitrite at any level can wipe them out fast, and nitrate can get ugly at their temps if you let detritus build up. If something seems off, test the water before you start throwing meds at the tank.

My go-to routine is simple: strong flow, frequent partial water changes, feed with a light hand, and vacuum out junk before it becomes a problem. If you do that and give them caves, zebra plecos usually reward you by actually coming out and acting like they own the place.

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