Piscora
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Kampen's ilisha

Ilisha kampeni

Also known as: Mata lebar, Gelebei

Kampen's ilisha is a small, silvery coastal herring-relative that cruises nearshore waters and will also push into rivers when it feels like it. Its whole vibe is fast, open-water, plankton-and-small-fish hunting - not really a cozy planted-tank fish, more like a little pelagic sprinter that wants room and current.

AI-generated illustration of Kampen's ilisha
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Kampen's ilisha exhibits a streamlined body with silvery scales and prominent, elongated dorsal and anal fins.

Brackish

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Quick Facts

Size

15 cm SL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Expert

Min Tank Size

75 gallons

Lifespan

1-2 years

Origin

Indo-West Pacific (India to Indonesia)

Diet

Carnivore/planktivore - planktonic crustaceans, amphipods, small fishes

Water Parameters

Temperature

27.7-29.3°C

pH

7.5-8.5

Hardness

8-20 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give Kampen's ilisha a long, open tank with strong flow and tons of oxygen - they are built to cruise, not hover in a planted box. Use a tight lid because they spook hard and jump.
  • Run brackish, not 'kinda brackish': aim around SG 1.005-1.012 (roughly 7-16 ppt) and keep it stable. Big swings in salinity or temperature are what seem to knock them over fastest.
  • Keep ammonia and nitrite at absolute zero and nitrates low with heavy filtration and frequent water changes; they don't shrug off dirty water. If your tank is still 'finding its balance', don't add this fish yet.
  • They do best in a group and feel less flighty, but only if the tank is big enough for a school to turn without slamming glass. Singletons tend to pace and crash into stuff when startled.
  • Feed small meaty foods that move in the current: live/frozen mysis, brine shrimp, copepods, chopped prawn, and quality micro pellets once they're taking prepared food. Multiple small feedings work better than one big dump since they're constant pickers.
  • Tankmates should be fast, brackish-tolerant fish that won't nip fins or outcompete them at feeding time - think peaceful scats/monos only if the setup is huge, or hardy gobies in a calmer zone. Avoid aggressive puffers, large archerfish that dominate the surface, and fin-nippers like many 'brackish' barbs.
  • Watch for mouth and gill damage from glass-surfing when they panic; dim lighting, dark background, and clear swimming lanes help a lot. Also keep an eye out for skinny-belly syndrome - it's usually stress plus not enough small food, not 'mystery disease'.
  • Breeding in home tanks is basically a non-starter; they are migratory clupeids and usually need seasonal shifts and big water to trigger spawning. If you see ripe behavior (restless schooling, chasing), treat it as a stress check rather than a breeding sign.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other peaceful brackish schooling fish - think bumblebee gobies (Brachygobius spp.) in a group. They mind their own business, and they are not trying to outcompete a midwater feeder all day.
  • Figure 8 puffers ONLY if its a big tank and you know your puffer is chill (lots of cover, well-fed). In my experience they can work, but its always a 'watch closely' combo because puffers can get curious and start testing fins.
  • Monos (Monodactylus spp.), especially when everyone is still in the lower-salinity brackish range and kept in a proper school. They are fast, open-water fish like ilisha, so nobody gets singled out.
  • Scats (Scatophagus spp.) if the tank is roomy and filtration is strong. They are generally peaceful and active, and the ilisha can hang without getting bullied, but do not cram them into a small setup.
  • Knight gobies (Stigmatogobius sadanundio) or other larger, calm brackish gobies that stay bottom-oriented. They are not competing for the same swimming space, and they can handle the same salty-ish water.
  • Archerfish (Toxotes spp.) when sized appropriately and you are running a true brackish community with lots of open swimming room. Archers are busy hunting and cruising, and the ilisha usually just schools and eats with them.

Avoid

  • Anything nippy or fin-testing - lots of puffers fall here, plus nasty barbs or similar bullies. Kampen's ilisha is peaceful and can get stressed fast if its being chased or pecked at all day.
  • Big aggressive cichlids or other bruisers that treat midwater fish like snacks (or punching bags). Even if they do not eat the ilisha, they will keep it pinned in a corner and it will stop feeding.
  • Slow, fancy-finned fish (bettas, guppies with huge tails, long-fin anything). Even if the ilisha is not a fin-nipper, the mix is bad - different flow/feeding needs, and the slow fish get outcompeted at mealtime.

Where they come from

Kampen's ilisha (Ilisha kampeni) is one of those clupeid fish (think small herrings/shads) that lives around coastal waters and moves through brackish estuaries. They are built for open-water cruising, not hanging around decor, and they do best when you treat them like a schooling, pelagic fish from a tide-influenced system.

If you are expecting a "community brackish fish" that browses rocks and plants, this is the wrong vibe. These are open-water, fast-moving fish that stress easily in small or busy setups.

Setting up their tank

Tank size is the whole game here. Ilisha spook easily, and once they start panic-dashing, they can bash their noses and scrape scales. Give them long, open swimming space and keep the layout simple.

  • Tank: long footprint over tall height. Bigger than you think, and built around a group, not a single fish.
  • Aquascape: mostly open water with a few soft-edged hardscape pieces on the sides for visual breaks. Skip sharp rock piles.
  • Flow and oxygen: strong filtration, strong surface agitation, and clean water. These are active fish with high oxygen demand.
  • Cover: tight-fitting lid. They jump when startled.
  • Lighting: moderate. Too bright plus no cover can make them skittish.

For brackish, aim for stability over chasing a perfect number. A mid-brackish range tends to work well for estuary fish, but the key is picking a salinity and keeping it steady week to week. Use marine salt mix, not table salt, and measure with a refractometer if you can.

Do not buy these for a "new" brackish tank. They handle swings poorly. Let the tank mature, get your filtration behaving, and make sure you can keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.

What to feed them

They are planktivore-style feeders in spirit, and in the aquarium they usually do best with small, meaty foods that move in the current. New imports can be picky, and they often ignore big pellets like they do not recognize them as food.

  • Go-to foods: mysis, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops/copepods, small prawns/shrimp finely chopped
  • Frozen prep: thaw, rinse, then feed in a high-flow area so it drifts like plankton
  • If they are stubborn: live foods like adult brine shrimp or blackworms can kick-start feeding response
  • Once settled: some will take small marine pellets, but introduce slowly and mix with frozen

Feed smaller portions more often instead of one big dump. With fast, schooling fish you want everyone eating without turning the tank into a nutrient soup.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are schooling fish, and they act like it. Kept singly they get nervous and weird, and they tend to slam the glass more. In a group, they settle down and cruise, especially if the tank has a predictable routine (same feeding spot, same light schedule).

  • Best kept: in a group of their own kind, with lots of open water
  • Temperament: not aggressive, but they can outcompete slow feeders
  • Good tankmates: calm brackish fish that do not nip fins or harass the school (avoid anything that chases)
  • Avoid: fin-nippers, hyper-territorial fish, and anything large enough to treat them as food

Stress is the silent killer with these. Loud tapping, fast hands in the tank, sudden light changes, or boisterous tankmates can trigger panic runs and injuries.

Breeding tips

Realistically, breeding Ilisha kampeni in home aquariums is not something I would plan around. Many clupeids migrate and spawn with seasonal cues and large-water conditions that are hard to replicate. If someone cracks it one day, my bet is it involves a big system, a large group, heavy live-food conditioning, and some kind of seasonal shift (salinity/temperature/flow).

If you ever see ripe behavior (chasing, tighter schooling, flashing in the current), log your temp, salinity, and feeding for a few weeks. Patterns matter more than guesses.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with fish like this come down to stress, shipping damage, and water quality. They can look "fine" right up until they stop eating, so you have to watch little changes.

  • Nose and scale damage from spooking: caused by tight tanks, no lid, sudden disturbances, or aggressive tankmates
  • Refusing food after import: common early on, especially if the tank is bright and bare
  • Wasting/skinny fish: often from not getting enough small meals or being outcompeted at feeding time
  • Gill stress (gasping, hanging at the surface): usually low oxygen, high organics, or salinity swings
  • Salt-mix mistakes: using the wrong salt or not mixing/aging water can irritate gills

Watch them during the first 5 minutes after feeding. If a couple of fish never really join in, you may need to spread food across the tank, increase frequency, or separate tankmates that are hogging everything.

Quarantine is worth the hassle with this species. Treating sick, stressed schooling fish in a display tank is a headache, and many meds behave differently in brackish water.

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