Atlantic Mudskipper

1) Where they come from

Atlantic mudskippers (Periophthalmus barbarus) come from West African mangroves and tidal mudflats. Think warm, shallow water that swings between fresh-ish and salty as the tide rolls in and out… and huge stretches of exposed mud where they spend half their life out of the water.

That tidal lifestyle is the whole secret. If you set them up like a normal “brackish fish tank,” they usually look miserable. If you set them up like a little mangrove shoreline, they turn into absolute characters.

2) Setting up their tank (the part that makes or breaks it)

You’re basically building a paludarium: water + land. Mudskippers need a big land area to climb, bask, and patrol. They also jump like they’ve got somewhere to be.

Tank size: bigger is calmer. I wouldn’t do adults in anything under a 30–40 gallon footprint, and I prefer long tanks over tall ones. They use floor space way more than depth.

• Layout: ~50–70% land, the rest shallow water (they don’t need deep water)
• Land: sand/mud mix or fine sand with a sloped beach; add rocks and driftwood for perches
• Hides: lots of line-of-sight breaks (roots, caves, rock piles) to cut down fighting
• Plants: mangrove-style look is great, but choose brackish-tolerant plants (or use hardy emergent plants with roots in water)

For water, aim brackish and stable. I’ve had the best luck in the low-to-mid brackish range (around SG 1.005–1.015). Mix with marine salt, not “aquarium salt.” Keep it warm (mid-to-high 70s°F / ~24–27°C) and well-filtered, but don’t blast them with current.

3) What to feed them

They’re enthusiastic predators and they really prefer meaty foods. Mine learned to recognize the feeding tool and would come up and stare me down like tiny swamp dogs.

• Staples: frozen/thawed shrimp, krill, mussel, clam, fish fillet (sparingly), chopped earthworms
• Great options: live or frozen bloodworms, blackworms, small crabs if you can get them (treat)
• Pellets: some will take sinking carnivore pellets, but many never fully convert—use as backup, not the whole diet

Feed small portions more often rather than one big dump. They’ll beg constantly, but overfeeding turns the shallow water into a waste soup fast.

4) Behavior and tankmates

They’re smart, territorial, and weirdly interactive. Expect posturing, little push-ups, fin flares, and wrestling matches. Some of it is normal… but constant chasing means the tank needs more space and more visual barriers.

Tankmates are tricky because mudskippers want land and calm shallows, while most brackish fish want more water volume. If you try tankmates, think tough, fast, brackish species that stay in the water and can handle the salinity you’re running—but even then, watch closely.

• Best plan: species-only mudskipper setup
• If mixing: pick fish that won’t be outcompeted at feeding time and won’t nip exposed mudskippers
• Keep multiple mudskippers only if the tank is large with lots of territories—otherwise one becomes the bully-in-chief

5) Breeding tips (the honest version)

Breeding P. barbarus in home setups isn’t impossible, but it’s not something most people stumble into. In the wild they dig burrows and use air pockets, tides, and very specific conditions.

If you want to try, your best shot is a big tank with a deep, diggable shoreline (mud/sand mix), stable brackish water, and a lot of privacy. You’re looking for burrow building and a male guarding a spot. The hard part is getting eggs/larvae through to juvenile stage without them disappearing.

6) Common problems to watch for

Most mudskipper problems come from one of three things: not enough land, wrong salinity, or bad escapes.

• Escape attempts: pacing and climbing—almost always a lid/gap issue or the tank is too bare/too small
• Fighting: torn fins, missing scales, one fish constantly pinned to a corner—add hides, break sight lines, or separate
• Skin/eye damage: sharp decor or abrasive substrate; also watch for cloudy eyes after scuffles
• Refusing food: stress from bullying, salinity swings, or a tank that’s all water with no usable land
• Poor water quality: shallow brackish tanks foul quickly—keep up with water changes and remove uneaten food fast

If you build the tank around their amphibious lifestyle—big land zone, warm humid air, brackish shallows, and a locked-down lid—everything else gets easier. And once they settle in, you’ll get one of the most entertaining fish you can keep.