Iranian cichlid

Where they come from

Iranian cichlids (Iranocichla hormuzensis) come from southern Iran, in coastal streams and springs around the Hormuz area that mix with seawater. That "sometimes salty, sometimes not" lifestyle shows up in the aquarium: they handle brackish really well, and they get touchy if you try to keep them like a normal freshwater cichlid long-term.

Setting up their tank

Give them space and structure. They are not huge, but they are territorial and they move with purpose. A 40 breeder can work for a pair, but if you want a small group or any tankmates, you will be much happier starting at 75+ gallons.

Hardscape matters more than plants here. I have had the best luck with lots of rock piles, caves, and broken lines of sight. They calm down when they cannot see each other across the whole tank.

• Tank size: 40 breeder for a pair (tight), 75+ for groups or communities
• Substrate: sand or fine gravel (they dig and sift)
• Hardscape: rock stacks, caves, chunks of coral rock, driftwood if you like (but rocks do most of the work)
• Filtration: strong bio + good flow; they appreciate clean, oxygen-rich water
• Temperature: mid- to upper-70s F is a solid target (roughly 24-26 C)
• Brackish salinity: aim for a steady low-end brackish; most people land around SG 1.005-1.010 depending on tankmates and long-term goals

If you want any plants, pick stuff that will not melt in brackish. Most common freshwater plants will slowly give up. I have used tough, tolerant options (and a few mangrove-style setups), but honestly I treat this as a rock-and-sand cichlid tank and call it a day.

What to feed them

They are enthusiastic eaters and will take most cichlid foods, but you will get better color and fewer digestion issues if you feed them like an omnivore that leans meaty. Variety is your friend.

• Staples: quality cichlid pellets (I like a mix of regular and smaller pellets so everyone gets a bite)
• Frozen: mysis, brine shrimp, chopped krill, bloodworms as an occasional treat (not the whole diet)
• Dry extras: spirulina flakes/pellets, shrimp-based foods
• Fresh: tiny bits of clam or prawn now and then (rinse well)

How they behave and who they get along with

They have that classic cichlid "bossy with rules" personality. Most of the time they are just alert and curious, but once they pick a territory, they will defend it. During breeding they go from spicy to full-on bouncer.

Tankmates are possible, but you need to pick fish that like the same brackish conditions and will not get pushed around. Tiny peaceful fish usually get stressed, and slow fish get harassed.

• Good ideas: brackish-tolerant gobies (depending on size), larger mollies in brackish, some monos/scats in bigger tanks (different vibe, but can work with space)
• Sometimes works: tougher livebearers, hardy brackish rainbowfish-type options where available
• Skip: most soft-water cichlids, delicate community fish, long-finned fish, anything you cannot comfortably keep in brackish

Breeding tips

They will breed in the aquarium if they are happy, and watching the pair work a site is half the fun. They are substrate spawners. You will see cleaning behavior on a flat rock, inside a cave, or on a solid vertical surface.

• Start with a group of juveniles and let a pair form if you can
• Give them multiple caves and at least one flat rock per territory
• Keep salinity stable and water clean; small, frequent water changes help
• Condition with varied foods (pellets plus frozen)
• Be ready to separate tankmates or use a divider once they spawn

Raising fry is doable, but you have to think ahead about salinity. I have found it easiest to raise them in the same brackish range the adults are in, then adjust slowly only if you have a reason. Newly free-swimming fry will take baby brine shrimp and fine crushed foods.

Common problems to watch for

Most problems I see with this species come from treating them like standard freshwater cichlids, or from sloppy brackish habits. They are not "fragile," but they do punish inconsistency.

• Salinity swings: stress, clamped fins, poor appetite, odd hovering
• Aggression injuries: torn fins, missing scales, fish hiding and not eating
• Poor diet: bloat/constipation from too much rich food or big meals
• Dirty water: cloudy water, algae explosions, fish getting lethargic
• New fish not acclimated to brackish: rapid breathing, flashing, hanging near the surface

If something seems off, I check three things before I reach for meds: salinity with a refractometer, nitrogen waste (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate), and whether someone is getting bullied into a corner. Fix those first and you solve a surprising number of "mystery" issues with these guys.