Palawan lentipes goby
Lentipes palawanirufus
The Palawan lentipes goby exhibits a slender body with a distinctive dark brown to grey coloration, often marked with lighter speckles and a streamlined dorsal fin.
This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?
About the Palawan lentipes goby
Tiny river goby from Palawan where the males sport a fiery red head and a bold red band along the body. It lives in fast, sparkling streams and spends its day scooting over rocks to graze on biofilm, so in a tank it really shines with strong flow and algae-covered stones.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
4.9 cm
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Advanced
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
3-5 years
Origin
Southeast Asia - Philippines (Palawan)
Diet
Herbivore - biofilm/algae grazer; accepts algae wafers and small frozen foods
Water Parameters
22-26°C
6.5-7.5
5-15 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 22-26°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Set up a high-flow river tank with rounded stones and sand patches; shoot for 15-25x turnover, tons of surface agitation, and a tight lid (they jump).
- Cool, clean water: 20-24 C, pH 6.8-7.6, GH 3-8, TDS 60-180 ppm; keep nitrate under 10 and do big weekly changes.
- They live off biofilm, so grow algae on smooth rocks before they arrive, and smear Repashy Super Green or spirulina gel on stones between feedings.
- For protein, offer tiny foods only: frozen cyclops, baby brine, moina, and powdered nano diets; skip big pellets and keep portions small to avoid bloat.
- Tankmates that work: small midwater rasboras, danios, ricefish, and caridina shrimp; avoid plecos, loaches, crayfish, or pushy bottom feeders that outcompete them.
- Males are feisty; in a 60 cm tank run 1 male with 2-3 females and lots of line-of-sight breaks, or expect sparring.
- They crash fast if oxygen dips or heat spikes; keep the water rippling, add an airstone during heat waves, and use a fan to hold temps below 26 C.
- Spawning can happen under a rock, but the larvae need a marine phase, so in freshwater tanks they do not survive; enjoy the courtship and do not expect fry.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Hillstream loaches like Sewellia or Gastromyzon - current-loving grazers that mind their own business and share rocky runs well
- Other small algae-grazing gobies like Stiphodon spp. - similar vibe; a little hip-checking but fine if you give rocks and sight breaks
- White cloud mountain minnows and other Tanichthys - cool, fast water mid-dwellers that are not pushy at feeding time
- Ricefish (Oryzias) - easygoing top swimmers; handle moderate flow if you leave a calmer lane so nobody gets blasted
- Otocinclus catfish - gentle algae helpers that ignore gobies and thrive in the same clean, well-oxygenated setup
- Amano and adult Neocaridina shrimp - the gobies focus on biofilm and leave adults alone; great cleanup crew
Avoid
- Nippy barbs and fin-biters like tiger barbs or serpae tetras - they will harass colorful male gobies and ruin the vibe
- Cichlids, even dwarfs during breeding (kribs, apistos, rams) - too territorial for a small river goby
- Big or boisterous bottom fish like yoyo or clown loaches - bulldoze the rocks and outcompete at feeding time
- Slow long-finned fish like bettas and fancy guppies - they hate the river flow and can be targets or turn cranky in still pockets
Where they come from
Palawan lentipes gobies are from Palawan Island in the Philippines. Picture steep, forested streams that roar after rain and run clear over smooth boulders the rest of the time. Males can light up with a vivid red that looks unreal in sunlight. Like many sicydiine gobies, they are amphidromous: adults live and spawn in freshwater, but the tiny larvae drift to the sea before returning upstream.
Because their wild homes are fast and highly oxygenated, they never do well in low-flow, warm, or dirty aquariums.
Setting up their tank
Give them a long river-style tank, not a tall cube. I like a 20-long or larger for a small group. Let the tank mature first so rocks grow real biofilm.
- Flow: strong directional current. A river manifold or dual powerheads on one end, plus a big sponge or canister intake with a prefilter.
- Oxygen: keep heavy surface agitation and an airstone. These gobies come from whitewater conditions.
- Substrate and structure: sand or small rounded gravel with piles of smooth cobbles. Build ledges and narrow crevices. Avoid sharp lava rock.
- Light: moderately bright to grow algae on stones. Give shaded retreats too.
- Lid: tight-fitting. They jump when spooked.
- Parameters: 22-26 C (72-79 F), pH 6.8-7.6, moderate hardness (TDS ~80-200). Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0, nitrates under ~20.
- Maintenance: big, regular water changes (30-50% weekly). Rinse prefilters often; grit clogs fast in river setups.
Seed your rocks. Toss a few cobbles in a tub by a sunny window with tank water and an airstone for a week or two. Drop those algae-coated stones into the display the day the gobies arrive. It makes a huge difference.
What to feed them
They spend the day picking at biofilm, diatoms, and tiny critters on rocks. Dry foods rarely hook them at first. Think small, moving, and frequent.
- Live or freshly hatched baby brine shrimp, cyclops, daphnia.
- Frozen cyclops, baby brine, calanus, and finely chopped mysis (tiny pieces only).
- Repashy Soilent Green or similar gel smeared onto warm rocks to harden, then placed back in the flow.
- Crushed spirulina flakes and powdered algae foods dusted onto stones so they can graze.
Feed lightly but often at first, and let a real algal film build up. Once settled, some individuals accept quality flakes or pellets, but dont bank on it. Avoid big, fatty worms like bloodworms; they choke or bloat on them.
How they behave and who they get along with
Expect perching, short dashes, and constant grazing. Males posture and flash at each other, especially in tight quarters. It is usually bluffing if there are enough rocks and sight breaks.
- Group setup: 1 male with 2-4 females works well. Multiple males need a bigger footprint and lots of rockwork.
- Good neighbors: Stiphodon gobies, hillstream loaches (Sewellia/Gastromyzon), small peaceful midwater fish that do not bully or outcompete, Amano shrimp, snails.
- Use caution: fast feeders like danios and barbs can starve them if you do not target feed.
- Avoid: cichlids, bettas, large shrimp, or anything nippy or predatory.
Jump risk. Any sudden movement, lights on-off, or water change can launch them. Keep the lid tight and cover gaps around cables.
Breeding tips
They will court and spawn in freshwater under a rock ledge or inside a tight crevice. The male cleans a spot, lures the female in, then guards the eggs. Its fun to watch, and it tells you they feel secure.
Raising fry is the hard part. The larvae are planktonic and drift downstream to the ocean in nature. Without moving them to a marine setup and feeding rotifers and microalgae in a gentle kreisel, they will not make it. Most hobbyists just enjoy the displays and let nature take its course.
If you want to observe spawning, pack the tank with smooth rocks and narrow crevices facing away from the current. Watch for a guarding male fanning a tiny patch under a stone.
Common problems to watch for
- New, too-clean tanks: no biofilm means slow starvation. Mature the tank and seed rocks first.
- Low oxygen or weak flow: you will see rapid breathing and lethargy. Crank up surface agitation and current.
- Import stress and parasites: quarantine new fish. Many arrive thin. Offer gentle foods and consider a deworming protocol per product directions.
- Heat spikes: warm water holds less oxygen. Above ~27 C/81 F they go downhill fast.
- Scrapes and fungus: they wedge into rocks. Keep surfaces smooth and handle them minimally.
- Food competition: fast schooling fish eat everything midwater. Target feed along the rocks.
- Male-on-male pressure: in small tanks, the dominant male can lock the others out of feeding lanes. Add line-of-sight breaks or re-balance the ratio.
Oxygen crashes kill river gobies quickly. Power outages, clogged intakes, or lids that trap CO2 under heavy condensation can wipe a tank overnight. Battery air pumps are cheap insurance.
Watch their bellies. A gently rounded belly and steady grazing is good. Pinched-in look and hanging near the surface means something is off with food or flow.
Similar Species
Other freshwater peaceful species you might be interested in.

Amphilius dimonikensis
A small loach catfish endemic to the Mpoulou River in the Mayombe (Dimonika Biosphere Reserve), Republic of the Congo. Amphilius dimonikensis has a subtle banded pattern and inhabits fast, clear streams over rock and sand. In aquaria, prioritize strong, well-oxygenated flow with rounded stones and sand to mimic hillstream conditions.

Aboina barb
Enteromius aboinensis
Enteromius aboinensis (the Aboina barb) is a small West African barb with a clean black midline stripe and a little spot right at the base of the tail. It does best when you treat it like a proper schooling fish - keep a decent group and give it plants around the edges with open swimming room in the middle.

Ajuricaba tetra
Jupiaba ajuricaba
Jupiaba ajuricaba is a South American freshwater characin from the Amazon basin in Brazil (rio Negro, rio Solimões, and rio Tapajós basins). It reaches about 9.5 cm SL and is diagnosed by a narrow dark midlateral stripe, an elongated humeral spot, and an ocellated spot on the upper caudal-fin lobe. Wild specimens have been collected from blackwater forest streams and also oxbow-lake habitats.

Allen's river garfish
Zenarchopterus alleni
A poorly known freshwater halfbeak endemic to West Papua (Mamberamo River), described from a single specimen (~13 cm SL). Beyond basic habitat/occurrence, little is published about its ecology or aquarium suitability; assume it is a surface-oriented, jump-prone halfbeak only by analogy with related taxa.

Amapa tetra
Hyphessobrycon amapaensis
This is a tiny, super sleek little tetra with a clean red stripe down the side that really pops once its settled in. It does best in a planted, slightly tinted "creek-style" setup and looks way cooler when you keep a proper group so they school and flash that line together. If you can give it soft, slightly acidic water and a calm community, its an easy fish to fall for.

Amatlan chub
Yuriria amatlana
Yuriria amatlana (the Amatlan chub) is a little Mexican native minnow from the Ameca River basin. Its wild range is pretty limited and it is listed as Endangered, so its care info in the aquarium hobby is basically nonexistent and its availability is usually low. In the original species description, preserved fish show a dark lateral stripe with a darker patch on the caudal peduncle, and they can have tiny barbels at the mouth corners.
More to Explore
Discover more freshwater species.

Jupiaba kurua
Small South American characin endemic to the upper rio Curuá (rio Xingu basin, Brazil). Reaches about 8.7 cm SL and inhabits clearwater rivers. Distinguished by dark dots on the bases of many lateral scales and a distinct dark caudal‑peduncle spot. Reported diet indicates omnivory, including aquatic insects, small fishes, and fragments of Podostemaceae and filamentous algae.

Altipedunculata stone loach
Schistura altipedunculata
Schistura altipedunculata is one of those little stream loaches that wants clean, well-oxygenated water and a bunch of rock nooks to claim as home. It is a bottom-hugger that will spend its day scooting from crevice to crevice, and it tends to get a bit spicy with its own kind if you do not give it enough hiding spots.

American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.

Amur sculpin
Alpinocottus szanaga
This is a little coldwater sculpin from the Amur drainage - a bottom-hugging, rock-and-gravel fish that spends its day wedged under stones and darting out to grab food. Super cool behavior and attitude, but it is absolutely not a warm tropical community fish - it wants chilly, fast, oxygen-rich water and will bicker with other bottom fish.

Andrica moenkhausia
Moenkhausia andrica
Moenkhausia andrica is a little Brazilian characin from the Tapajos system that tops out around 7 cm (about 2.8 inches) standard length. It has a neat netted (reticulated) scale pattern plus a dark spot on the caudal peduncle, and the really wild part is that mature females can have tiny fin hooklets too, which is usually a male-only thing in a lot of characins.

Anhanga pygmy pencil catfish
Potamoglanis anhanga
This is a truly tiny Amazonian trichomycterid catfish - like 1.3 cm max - so it is more of a micro-predator oddball than a typical community catfish. It is the kind of fish that disappears into sand, leaf litter, and plant roots, and you will spend way more time setting up the right micro-habitat than you will actually seeing it.
Looking for other species?
