Boulenger's lamprologine (shell-dwelling Tanganyika cichlid)

Where they come from

Lepidiolamprologus boulengeri is a Lake Tanganyika shell-dwelling lamprologine. They come from rocky-sandy shoreline zones where empty snail shells collect in pockets. The lake is old, mineral-rich, and very stable, which explains why these fish act a little offended when your water swings around.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space and shells before you worry about fancy decor. They live on the bottom, they dig, and they will redesign whatever you do anyway. I have had the best luck with a longer tank (not tall), a sand bottom, and a clear shell bed where you can actually see what is going on.

• Tank size: I would start a pair in 20 gallons long or bigger. For a small group/colony-style setup, 30-40+ gallons makes life easier.
• Substrate: fine sand. They shovel it constantly and it is easier on their mouths than sharp gravel.
• Shells: more than you think. A good starting point is 3-5 shells per fish, spread in clusters so subdominant fish can claim a spot.
• Hardscape: a few rock piles to break lines of sight, but leave open sand around the shell zones.
• Filtration: steady and a little oversized. Tanganyikans hate dirty water, and shell beds trap debris.
• Water: hard, alkaline Tanganyika-style (high KH/GH, pH on the high side) and stable temperature in the mid- to upper-70s F.

They appreciate calm flow along the bottom. If your filter outlet blasts across the sand, they will dig craters and you will get sandstorms. I usually aim flow along the back wall and let the bottom stay relatively gentle.

What to feed them

These are meaty little cichlids. In my tanks they do best on small, protein-heavy foods, but not huge portions. They are enthusiastic eaters and will act like they are starving even when they are not.

• Staples: quality small pellets (cichlid or carnivore formulas) and small sinking granules
• Frozen: mysis, brine shrimp, finely chopped krill, cyclops
• Live (optional): baby brine shrimp, daphnia - great for conditioning breeders
• Avoid as a routine: fatty, messy foods in big amounts (it fouls shell beds fast)

How they behave and who they get along with

Boulengeri is a shell-dweller, but do not expect the peaceful, bustling shell colony vibe you get from multies. These can be pushy, especially once they pick a shell and decide it is theirs. The drama is mostly about territory on the sand - they are not usually open-water bullies.

You will see lots of posturing at shell entrances, quick darts, and sand-spraying. That is normal. What is not normal is one fish being pinned in a corner with shredded fins because it cannot find a shell it is allowed to use.

• Good tankmates: other Tanganyika species that use different zones (calmer rock-dwellers up in the rocks, or midwater schooling fish like cyprichromis in a big tank)
• Avoid: other shell-dwellers in the same footprint unless the tank is large and you are prepared to separate fish
• Avoid: slow, long-finned fish and most community fish - wrong water and they will get harassed
• Best grouping: a bonded pair, or a small group of juveniles and let a pair form (be ready to rehome extras)

Breeding tips

If they are happy, they will breed without you doing anything fancy. The female usually claims a shell, lays inside, and the male patrols and guards the area. You might not even notice until you see tiny fry peeking out like little commas in the sand.

• Start with a group of 5-8 juveniles if you can, then keep the best pair and move the rest (less hit-or-miss than buying a "pair")
• Keep the shell opening facing slightly upward or sideways so the female can work inside without the entrance collapsing under sand
• Condition with frozen foods and small frequent feedings
• First foods for fry: baby brine shrimp, crushed flakes, powdered fry food (they grow faster on BBS)
• If you want more fry to make it, run the tank as a species setup or use tankmates that ignore the shell zone

Common problems to watch for

Most issues with this species come down to three things: unstable water, a dirty shell bed, or social pressure. Fix those and they are pretty tough fish.

• Aggression spikes: usually from too few shells, no line-of-sight breaks, or a pair forming and claiming half the tank
• Bloat/intestinal issues: often from overfeeding rich foods or poor water - cut back, do water changes, and keep food small and clean
• Frayed fins: can be fighting, but also check for ammonia/nitrite or a neglected filter
• Sandstorms and cloudy water: caused by strong flow across the substrate or fish digging into piles of debris
• Fry disappearing: predation from tankmates, or the adults are stressed and abandon the spawn

My routine that keeps them looking sharp is simple: weekly water changes, vacuum lightly around (not through) the shell clusters, rinse prefilters often, and keep feeding controlled. If you do that and give them shells they can claim, they will reward you with great behavior and constant activity right on the front glass.