Long-lipped Whiptail Catfish

Where they come from

Long-lipped Whiptails (Loricariichthys anus) are South American loricariids. You will usually see them tied to cooler, moving water in the southern part of the continent (Uruguay/Argentina region), with lots of sand, leaf litter, and muddy banks.

They are not your typical "stick it in a community tank" pleco. They have a very specific vibe: soft bottom, open space, clean water, and a calmer tank where they can cruise and sift without getting bullied off food.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space first, not height. A long tank makes a big difference because these fish spend their time on the bottom gliding around like little bulldozers. I would not keep adults in a small footprint tank even if the gallons sound decent.

• Tank size: 75+ gallons is where they start to look comfortable long-term, bigger if you want a group or tankmates
• Footprint: 48 in length minimum for adults, 72 in is even better
• Substrate: fine sand (not gravel) so they can sift without tearing their mouth and belly
• Flow and oxygen: moderate flow and strong surface agitation - they like well-oxygenated water
• Filtration: oversize it, and plan on frequent mechanical cleaning (they are messy eaters)
• Lighting: they do not need it bright - shaded areas help them relax

Decor-wise, think "open sand flats" with cover on the edges. I use a couple pieces of driftwood, some smooth stones, and leaf litter in piles. They appreciate somewhere to wedge in during the day, but they also want clear runways to forage.

Water parameters do not need to be exotic, but stability matters. Neutral-ish water is fine. They handle a range, but they get touchy if nitrates creep up or the tank goes stale. Big weekly water changes made mine look better than any tweak in pH ever did.

What to feed them

They are not algae-mowers. They will graze some film, but they are really bottom foragers that take a lot of meaty and detritus-style foods in nature. If you feed them like a common bristlenose, they slowly get skinny.

• Staples: sinking carnivore wafers, quality pellets that actually sink and stay intact
• Frozen foods: bloodworms, blackworms, mysis, chopped shrimp (small pieces), brine shrimp for variety
• Fresh foods: zucchini and cucumber are fine sometimes, but do not rely on veggies as the main diet
• Occasional: Repashy-style gels are great because they can rasp at it without it vanishing into the filter

Feed after lights-out if you have faster tankmates. My whiptails were much bolder once they learned the routine, but they still lose the "food race" to things like barbs and big tetras.

How they behave and who they get along with

Most of the time they are calm, almost shy. They spend a lot of time resting on the sand, then suddenly do slow patrols and sifting. Once settled, they can be surprisingly visible, especially at dusk.

They can get feisty with their own kind, especially males, and especially in tighter quarters. It is not usually "kill each other" aggression, but it can turn into relentless pushing and stress.

• Good tankmates: peaceful midwater fish (larger tetras, peaceful cichlids that are not bottom bullies, rainbowfish), other calm catfish that do not compete hard for the exact same space
• Risky tankmates: boisterous bottom fish (big Cory groups in a small tank, aggressive Geophagus setups), fin-nippers, anything that hogs sinking food
• Avoid: large aggressive cichlids, bichirs that might try their luck, and other big loricariids that want the same territory

Breeding tips

Breeding is doable, but it is more "project fish" than happy accident. Like other whiptails, the male takes on the parenting job and will guard eggs. If you are serious, plan for a species-focused setup.

• Start with a group of juveniles so you can end up with a pair naturally
• Give them lots of sand, calm cover, and a few defined territories (wood and smooth rock works well)
• Condition with heavy feeding of sinking meaty foods and frequent water changes
• A seasonal-style shift can help: slightly cooler water and big water changes to mimic fresh influx

If you get fry, keep the bottom spotless and feed small sinking foods. Fry do not do well in a dirty tank with lots of mulm, even if the adults seem fine. Gentle flow and clean surfaces beat fancy tricks here.

Common problems to watch for

These are the issues I see most often, and they usually tie back to tank layout and feeding competition rather than some mysterious disease.

• Belly and mouth abrasions from rough substrate or sharp decor
• Slow starvation because tankmates steal sinking food
• Bloat/constipation from too many dry foods with not enough variety (especially if the fish is already stressed)
• Bacterial infections following small wounds (red patches, fuzzy edges on fins, lethargy)
• Poor tolerance for "dirty water" - they show it as clamped fins, hiding, and weight loss

Last thing: be careful with nets. Their odontodes and fins love to snag. I move them with a container whenever possible, or a very soft fine mesh net, slowly. A calm transfer prevents a lot of pointless injuries.