Sicklefin chub
Macrhybopsis meeki
The Sicklefin chub exhibits a slender, laterally compressed body with a sickle-shaped dorsal fin and a silvery sheen.
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About the Sicklefin chub
Sicklefin chub is a sleek Midwestern river minnow with a neat sickle-shaped dorsal fin. It hugs sandy runs in fast, turbid water and relies on taste more than sight to pick off tiny drifting insects. If you ever keep it, plan on cool, high-oxygen flow and a soft sand river setup.
Quick Facts
Size
11 cm
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Advanced
Min Tank Size
40 gallons
Lifespan
2-4 years
Origin
North America
Diet
Invertivore - aquatic insect larvae and small drifting invertebrates; accepts small live or frozen foods
Water Parameters
20-24°C
7.1-8.3
8-20 dGH
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This species needs 20-24°C in a 40 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a long river-style tank (4 ft+; 55 gal or bigger for a group) with heavy flow and oxygen - think 10-20x turnover using powerheads or a river manifold.
- Run fine sand with open swimming lanes and a few rounded cobbles; skip sharp gravel and keep a tight lid because they jump when startled.
- Keep a group of 6-10 or they sulk and stop eating; pair them with other fast-water natives (shiners, dace) and skip predators or slow fish that hate current.
- Aim for 68-75 F, pH 7.2-8.2, medium hardness; warm, low-oxygen water wipes them out fast, so keep the water cool and ripping with air and surface agitation.
- Feed into the current so food drifts past them: small sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, blackworms, daphnia, and baby brine; several small feedings beat one big dump.
- They are touchy when newly imported, so do a 4-week quarantine with strong aeration and dim lights; expect flukes or protozoans and be ready with praziquantel and a follow-up dewormer.
- Breeding is broadcast-in-current with semi-buoyant eggs; you would need a raceway flow, false bottom or egg collector, and high oxygen to even have a chance.
- Check local regs before buying or collecting; in parts of their range they are protected and you can get in trouble fast.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Fast-water shiners and dace that can keep up with flow, like rainbow shiners, spotfin shiners, and longnose dace
- Peaceful bottom dwellers from rivers, like rainbow darters and other Etheostoma or Percina species
- Hillstream loaches and similar river suckers (Sewellia, Gastromyzon) that graze and ignore midwater fish
- Rubberlip or bulldog plecos (Chaetostoma) and other small loricariids that like cool, high-oxygen water
- Hardy, quick schooling minnows that handle current, like white cloud mountain minnows or zebra danios
- A group of their own kind - keep them in a shoal so they stay confident and spread out any chasing
Avoid
- Predatory or territorial North American natives like sunfish and juvenile bass
- Nippy barbs and rough tetras that like to pick, like tiger barbs and serpae tetras
- Slow, flow-hating long-finned fish like bettas, fancy goldfish, and angelfish
- Large cichlids or big catfish that see slim minnows as snacks (oscars, jack dempseys, redtail cats)
Where they come from
Sicklefin chubs are sleek little river minnows from the big sandy channels of the Missouri and lower Mississippi River system in the U.S. They hang out in fast, open water over shifting sand where the current never really lets up. Think long runs, turbid water, and not a plant in sight.
Check your local laws before you even start looking. In many places the sicklefin chub is protected and you cannot collect or possess it. Mine came from a permitted source. If it is not legal where you live, pick a similar river shiner instead.
Setting up their tank
Keep these like you are building a slice of big river. Long tank, lots of flow, and a clean sand bottom. They do not appreciate slow, warm, plant-heavy setups.
- Tank size: 75 gallons minimum for a group, 6-foot tanks are noticeably better. They cruise nonstop.
- Flow: Aim for 15-20x turnover. Use a river manifold or multiple powerheads all pushing one way to make a strong, laminar run.
- Substrate: Fine, rounded sand. No sharp gravel. Keep it shallow (about 1-2 cm) so it stays clean.
- Hardscape: A few smooth cobbles or driftwood pieces to make slack pockets, but keep most of the floor open.
- Filtration: Big biofilter plus mechanical. Prefilter sponges on powerhead intakes so you do not shred fins or suck in juveniles.
- Oxygen: Surface agitation and redundancy. These fish crash fast if oxygen dips.
- Lid: Tight cover. Strong current plus skittish fish equals jump risk.
A simple DIY river manifold (PVC under the sand with powerheads on one end) gives you steady one-way flow and keeps the fish moving like they would in the river.
Water parameters they handle well: pH roughly 7.2-8.2, moderate to hard water, cool to temperate temps. I keep them 64-72 F most of the year with a winter dip into the low-mid 60s. Keep it very clean but not sterile; they are used to turbid water, just not ammonia or nitrite.
They do better with a seasonal temperature swing. Warm long-term (mid-upper 70s F) shortens their stamina and they go off feed. Keep them cool and highly oxygenated.
What to feed them
They are drift-feeders. In current, they grab small invertebrates flying past. Getting them onto food is all about letting the flow deliver bite-sized items.
- Live or frozen: daphnia, cyclops, baby brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, blackworms chopped fine, bloodworms in moderation.
- Small sinking or slow-sinking pellets: high-protein, insect-based ones are taken after they settle in.
- Crushed high-quality flakes fed into the current so it stays suspended.
Feed small amounts 2-3 times a day into the fast lane and watch them track it down. Pre-soak tiny pellets so they do not rocket to the bottom and vanish into the sand.
How they behave and who they get along with
Active, nervous energy in a good way. They are schooling fish and settle best in groups of 8-12+. Solo fish pace and spook. They are not aggressive and ignore tankmates that can handle the same current.
- Good company: other large-river minnows and shiners that like flow (e.g., robust Notropis species), sturgeon chub if legal, hillstream loaches as cleaners in slack pockets.
- Use caution: barbs or danios that nip when crowded, anything that hogs all the food in current.
- Avoid: slow-water fish, long-finned fish, territorial cichlids, and anything that cannot handle cold, fast water.
Breeding tips
Hard mode. Sicklefin chubs are open-water spawners that release semi-buoyant eggs into strong current. The eggs drift. Replicating that in a home tank is tricky, but not impossible if you like projects.
- Condition a big group on rich live foods through late winter.
- Increase day length and bump temps from ~64 F to ~70 F over a couple weeks in spring.
- Create a high-speed raceway section with an egg collector or a kreisel-style drum so eggs do not get buried.
- If you see rapid chases and flashing in the current, watch for tiny drifting eggs. Pull them to a separate flow-through hatching container with fine prefilter screens.
- Feed newly hatched fry rotifers or paramecia first, then baby brine once they can handle it.
- Be ready for low yields; even public aquaria struggle with this group.
I have seen spawning behavior under heavy flow after a cool winter. Actual rearing is the bottleneck. If you crack it, take notes and share them with other keepers.
Common problems to watch for
- Oxygen dips: Power outages or clogged intakes can wipe them out fast. Battery air pump backup is cheap insurance.
- Intake injuries: Their fins snag easily. Always use sponge prefilters on every pump.
- Internal parasites: Wild fish often come in skinny. Quarantine and treat methodically after they are eating well.
- Refusing prepared foods: Keep offering tiny portions into the current and mix live with finely crushed pellets until they make the switch.
- Overheating: Temps creeping into the upper 70s F lead to listlessness and losses. Keep them cool.
- Sand compaction: Deep, dirty sand traps waste. Keep it shallow and vacuum the slack zones.
Quarantine new fish for 4-6 weeks. These are sensitive to stress and do not hide illness well. Treat gently, use a soft knotless net, and move them in a water-filled container rather than lifting them into air.
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