Shiloango spiny eel

Where they come from

The Shiloango spiny eel is from West Central Africa, named after the Shiloango (Chiloango) River system that runs through the Cabinda enclave and parts of the Congo region to the Atlantic. Think warm, soft to moderate water, sandy bottoms, tumbled wood, and leaf litter. That river vibe is what I try to copy at home.

Tank setup

Give them floor space first, gallons second. A single adult does well in a 55-75 gallon tank with a 48 x 18 in footprint. They reach roughly 10-14 in and spend a lot of time cruising the bottom or buried.

• Substrate: fine sand, at least 2-3 in deep. They bury and poke their snout out. Sharp gravel scrapes them up.
• Hides: PVC tubes, rounded rock piles, wood, coconut caves. I scatter 5-6 options so nobody gets bullied out.
• Plants: use rooted plants with heavier substrates or go with epiphytes (Anubias, Java fern, Bolbitis) on wood/rock. They will dig.
• Filtration: strong but not blasting. Canister or HOB with a pre-filter sponge so they do not get their nose sucked in.
• Heater guard: cover the heater. They wrap around things and can burn themselves.
• Lid: gap-free lid with weights or clips. They are escape artists.

Water: 75-82 F (24-28 C), pH 6.2-7.5, soft to medium hardness. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 and nitrates under 20 ppm. Dim lighting or lots of shade makes them bolder.

What to feed them

Carnivore through and through. They rarely accept flakes and only sometimes take pellets after training. Start with meaty foods and work from there.

• Go-to foods: live or frozen bloodworms, blackworms, chopped earthworms, mysis, krill, prawn, and mussel.
• Training: use long tweezers and feed near their hide with lights low. Tap the same spot each time so they learn the routine.
• Pellets: once they are confident, try small sinking carnivore pellets or soft sticks mixed with their favorite frozen food.

How they behave and who they get along with

Mostly crepuscular and surprisingly gentle with fish they cannot swallow. Shy at first, then curious. They will sample anything bite-sized at night, so plan tankmates with that in mind.

• Good fits: medium, fast, or deep-bodied fish like Congo tetras, larger rainbowfish, peaceful Synodontis, ropefish of similar size, and calm dwarf cichlids that are not nippy.
• Use caution: slow long-finned species (angels, bettas) can get their fins investigated. Boisterous cichlids stress them out.
• Conspecifics: mixing multiple spiny eels needs a big tank and a hide for each eel. They can posture and tail-slap. I only keep one per tank unless I have lots of space.

Breeding

I have not seen this species spawn in a home tank, and I do not know anyone who has. African Mastacembelus generally need seasonal cues (big water changes with cooler soft water, heavy feeding, and space) and even then it is rare. Commercial breeding often uses hormones, which is out of reach for hobbyists.

Common problems to watch for

• Escapes: they probe every gap. Cover filter cutouts and cable holes. I learned the hard way; now I use weatherstripping around the lid.
• Skin scrapes: rough gravel and sharp decor cause cuts that invite infections. Sand and smooth wood only.
• Medication sensitivity: they are scaleless and react badly to copper, formalin, and strong dyes. If you must medicate, use a hospital tank and start at half-dose with extra aeration.
• Not eating: new arrivals often fast for a few days. Dim the lights, add more hides, try live blackworms or chopped earthworms, and feed after dark.
• Parasites: wild-caught eels often carry worms. Quarantine new fish and watch for weight loss despite eating. Work with a fish-safe dewormer protocol.
• Stress from bright light and traffic: keep the front glass partly shaded with tall plants or driftwood, and give them a retreat on both ends of the tank.