Highbody longnose gudgeon
Microphysogobio alticorpus
The Highbody longnose gudgeon has a slender, elongated body, with a distinctive long snout and a pale, silvery coloration adorned with dark spots.
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About the Highbody longnose gudgeon
Little bottom-hugger from Taiwan’s fast, well-oxygenated streams that spends its day scooting over gravel and picking at biofilm between snacking on tiny insects. Keep a small group over a gritty-sandy bed with good current and they’ll settle in and school nicely, especially if you feed fine live or frozen foods.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
2.5 inches (6.3 cm SL)
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
3-5 years
Origin
East Asia - Taiwan
Diet
Omnivore - biofilm grazer and micro-insectivore; accepts small live/frozen foods and fine sinking pellets
Water Parameters
20-26°C
7.2-8.2
3-8 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a river-style setup: 20-30 gal long tank, strong flow from a powerhead, tight lid, and a pile of smooth stones with fine sand between for sifting and cover.
- Shoot for cool, high-oxygen water: 18-23 C (64-73 F), pH 6.8-7.8, GH 5-15 dGH, nitrate under 20 ppm; temps over 26 C make them sulk and gasp.
- They are sand sifters, so use fine sand; sharp gravel shreds mouths and barbels.
- Feed sinking foods only: small pellets, Repashy, and frozen bloodworms, daphnia, or cyclops; two small feeds a day beats one big dump.
- Keep 6+ so they settle and spread the pecking; good tankmates are danios, white clouds, hillstream loaches, and Rhinogobius, but skip cichlids, crayfish, big barbs, and bottom bullies.
- Do weekly 30-50% water changes and keep strong flow or an airstone; dirty, low-oxygen sand leads to weight loss and barbel erosion fast.
- Wild-caught fish often bring worms; a course of levamisole or praziquantel fixes the eating-but-getting-skinny issue.
- Breeding is scatter-style over pebbles after a cool spell then a slight warm-up; if they spawn, pull the adults and start fry on microworms or newly hatched brine shrimp.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Fast, cool-current schooling fish like zebra or pearl danios and white clouds - same temp range and they do great in flow
- Hillstream loaches (Sewellia, Gastromyzon) and other high-oxygen river fish - they hang on the rocks while the gudgeons sift the sand
- Stiphodon and other small river gobies - similar vibe, not pushy, and plenty of space-sharing if you add line-of-sight breaks
- Peaceful barbs kept in a decent group, like cherry or gold barbs - active but not nippy when in numbers
- Cold-tolerant ricefish (Oryzias/medaka) - midwater, quick feeders, and happy with a brisk current
- Hardy temperate minnows like rosy reds or smaller shiners - lively, tough, and current-happy
Avoid
- Nippy or rowdy schooling fish like tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or Buenos Aires tetras - they harass and stress bottom sitters
- Big or predatory cichlids and similar bruisers (oscars, Jack Dempseys, larger acaras) - your gudgeons become snacks
- Slow, warmwater, flow-hating fish with long fins like bettas, fancy guppies, or angelfish - they struggle in the current and get outcompeted
- Territorial bottom bullies like red-tail black sharks or Chinese algae eaters - they claim the floor and will chase gudgeons off food
Where they come from
Highbody longnose gudgeons are small river cyprinids from Taiwan and nearby East Asian drainages. Think clear, fast, shallow streams with sand and pebbles, lots of oxygen, and seasonal shifts in temperature. They spend their time nosing through the substrate for tiny snacks.
Quick stats I use: 18-24 C (64-75 F), pH 6.6-7.8, moderate hardness, strong current, sandy bottom. Plan for a group and a tank with a decent footprint.
Setting up their tank
If you give them current and clean water, they settle in fast. A 30-40 gallon long (or any 90 cm/3 ft tank) works for a group of 6-8. They like floor space more than height.
- Substrate: fine sand or very small rounded gravel so they can sift without scraping their snouts.
- Flow: aim a powerhead or canister return along the length of the tank. I like a spray bar plus a small powerhead. Surface movement = oxygen.
- Hardscape: smooth river stones, cobbles, and a few wood pieces. Make broken sight lines so subdominant fish can duck out.
- Plants: optional. Go with hardy, attached types like Anubias, Bolbitis, or moss on rocks. They handle flow better than rooted stems.
- Filtration: oversized canister or HOB with pre-filter sponges so nobody gets pinned to the intake.
- Lid: tight-fitting. They rocket off if spooked. I tape the back gaps around cables.
They perk up in slightly cooler rooms. If your house runs hot, use a fan across the surface or choose the coolest room. These fish sulk above 24-25 C.
Maintenance is simple but regular: 30-50% weekly water changes, clean the pre-filter sponge often, and vacuum lightly so you do not strip all the biofilm from the stones.
What to feed them
They are little sifters. Mine ignore most flakes and go for anything that sinks and looks alive.
- Staples: small sinking pellets (nano-sized), quality wafers, and gel foods spread thin on a rock.
- Protein: frozen or live foods a few times a week - daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms, blackworms. Rinse frozen foods.
- Grazing: they pick at biofilm and microalgae on stones. Sun a few rocks in a tub outside and rotate them in if you want to spoil them.
- Veg boost: tiny bits of blanched spinach or zucchini now and then, mostly for variety.
Feed small amounts 2-3 times a day at first. Watch that food actually reaches the bottom in the current. I drop food upstream so it tumbles along the substrate.
How they behave and who they get along with
Peaceful, busy, and very into their own business. In a group they do short chases to sort out pecking order, then go back to sifting. Solo fish get jumpy and hide more.
- Group size: 6+ spreads out any sparring. Aim higher if your tank allows.
- Good tankmates: current-loving, non-nippy species like danios, smaller barbs (cool-tolerant ones), hillstream loaches, white cloud mountain minnows, Rhinogobius-type gobies.
- Avoid: big cichlids, anything that snacks on small bottom fish, and slow long-finned fish that hate flow. Very warm-water fish are a bad match.
You will see their best behavior in brighter tanks with a dappled look and lots of stones. Once they feel safe, they forage in the open even during the day.
Breeding tips
They are likely seasonal scatter spawners over gravel in brisk water. It is doable but not a beginner project. I had best results after a cool winter period and a spring warm-up with heavy feeding.
- Conditioning: cool them to around 18-19 C for a few weeks, then nudge up to 22-23 C and increase flow and water changes.
- Spawning site: a tray of smooth pebbles or marbles so eggs drop out of reach. Strong, well-oxygenated current right over it.
- Sexing: females get rounder; males may show small breeding tubercles and posture more.
- Post-spawn: adults offer no care and may eat eggs. Pull the tray or move adults when you see vigorous chasing.
- Rearing: eggs hatch in 2-4 days depending on temp. Start fry on infusoria/rotifers, then baby brine shrimp. Keep flow gentle but oxygen high. Sponge filter only in the fry tank.
Fungus can wipe a small batch fast. Super-clean water and steady aeration beat chemical fixes. If you must, use a mild antifungal and test on a small batch first.
Common problems to watch for
- Low oxygen and heat: the combo makes them gasp and go off food. Add surface agitation and cool the tank a bit.
- Injured snouts/barbels: usually from sharp gravel. Swap to sand or smoother pebbles.
- Weight loss: often from offering only flake. They need sinking foods they can actually find in current.
- Parasites on new arrivals: many are wild-caught. Quarantine 3-4 weeks. Observe for flashing, stringy poop, or hollow bellies.
- Ammonia spikes near the bottom: they live on the floor where waste collects. Keep up on water changes and do not overpack the substrate with gunk.
- Jumping: startled fish clear lids. Cover every gap, even around filter pipes.
If they seem skittish, add a few more rounded stones to break up sight lines and bump the group size. It calms things down more than any magic water additive.
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