Piscora
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Silver moony (Mono)

Monodactylus argenteus

Also known as: Silver mono, Mono, Mono angel, Fingerfish, Silver moonfish, Diamondfish, Butter bream, Natal moony, Malayan angel

Silver moonies are those shiny, diamond-shaped "mono" fish you see cruising nonstop in brackish tanks-super active and way more fun to watch when they're in a proper group. They start out in estuaries (often sold too small and too fresh), and the big "gotcha" is they really want you to ramp them up to stronger brackish/near-marine as they grow. Feed them like a hungry, messy omnivore and give them swimming room, and they're absolute show-stealers.

AI-generated illustration of Silver moony (Mono)
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The Silver moony exhibits a high, laterally compressed body with a shimmering silver hue and distinctive black vertical stripes.

Brackish

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Quick Facts

Size

27 cm (about 10.6 inches)

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

100 gallons

Lifespan

7-10 years

Origin

Indo-West Pacific

Diet

Omnivore - quality pellets/flakes, frozen foods, plus lots of greens/seaweed

Water Parameters

Temperature

24-28°C

pH

7.5-8.5

Hardness

10-25 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Don't buy a tiny tank for a baby mono—these grow fast and need a long tank with lots of open swimming room. For a real group (often 5–8+), plan on ~75g as an absolute minimum and ideally 100g+ as they mature; much larger is better for long-term adult size and activity.
  • Run them brackish, not "kinda salty": aim around SG 1.005-1.012 (they handle higher as adults), keep pH roughly 7.5-8.5, and don't let nitrate creep up-big water changes pay off with these fish.
  • They're jumpy when spooked, so use a tight lid and keep the lighting/corners calm; strong flow and lots of oxygen makes them way more confident.
  • Feeding is easy but they're pigs-mix quality pellets/flakes with frozen foods (brine, mysis, bloodworms) and toss in some veg/spirulina; they'll also mow down soft plants and nori.
  • Keep them with other brackish, fast, non-bully fish: scats, archerfish, bigger brackish gobies, and similar-speed tankmates work; slow long-finned fish get harassed and tiny fish/shrimp become snacks.
  • They do best in a group-solo monos tend to get skittish and can turn nippy, while a small school spreads out the attitude.
  • Watch for "new fish" issues: they're prone to ich/velvet when stressed, and they don't love sudden salinity changes-adjust SG slowly over days, not hours.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other Silver moonies / monos (keep a little group, like 5-8 if you've got the room) - they school up, feel safer, and you get way less random sparring than keeping one or two
  • Scats (Scatophagus argus) - classic brackish buddy, similar size/attitude, and they can handle the moony "busy" swimming without getting stressed
  • Archerfish (Toxotes spp.) - works well in a bigger brackish setup; both are fast feeders, so spread food out so the moonies don't hog everything
  • Knight gobies (Stigmatogobius sadanundio) - can work in brackish setups, but ensure the gobies' salinity needs match your long-term plan (adult monos trend toward high brackish/full marine).
  • Bigger, tough brackish monos/targets like adult bumblebee gobies' 'upgrade' options: violet goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) or similar robust bottom fish - not tiny snack-sized, and not delicate
  • Brackish 'tough guys' like molly groups (yep, the humble molly) - in mildly brackish they do fine, and they're quick enough to not get constantly pushed around (avoid fancy slow strains)

Avoid

  • Tiny fish (guppies, endlers, small tetras/rasboras) - moonies are fast, semi-pushy, and once they size up they'll treat small tankmates like snacks or at least stress them into hiding
  • Slow, fancy-finned fish (bettas, fancy guppies, longfin mollies, angelfish) - moonies aren't 'fin nippers' in the classic tiger barb way, but they're mouthy and grabby at feeding time and can shred floaty fins by accident
  • Super aggressive brackish bruisers (big puffers like green spotted puffers, most large cichlids) - puffers will nail their fins, and heavy hitters turn the tank into a constant stress fest

1) Where they come from (quick backstory)

Silver moonies (Monodactylus argenteus) are classic “coastal” fish. In the wild they cruise around estuaries, mangroves, and river mouths where fresh and salt water mix. That’s why they’re so unfazed by changing conditions… as long as you keep things clean and stable in your tank.

Most moonies in shops are sold small and cute, but they don’t stay that way. They’re a big, fast, schooly fish that appreciates room to move.

2) Setting up their tank

Think “open water with strong filtration.” Moonies are like little silver dinner plates that zip back and forth all day. If you cram them in a short tank, you’ll watch them bonk around and sulk.

  • Tank size: I’d treat 4–6 juveniles as a 75g/280L minimum, and bigger is honestly nicer once they start putting on size.
  • Footprint matters more than height: longer tanks help a lot.
  • Flow + oxygen: they like brisk water movement and high aeration.
  • Filtration: oversize it. They eat well and they poop like it’s their job.

Brackish-wise, I’ve had the best results raising them in lower-end brackish as youngsters and gradually bumping salinity as they grow. You don’t need to swing it around—just pick a target and keep it consistent.

Use a refractometer or at least a decent hydrometer. “A little salt” is how people end up with mystery problems. Measure it so you can repeat it after water changes.

Decor is simple: sand, a few pieces of driftwood/rock, maybe some hardy brackish-friendly plants if your salinity isn’t too high. But don’t turn it into a maze—leave them open swimming lanes.

Cover the tank. Moonies can spook and launch, especially the first few weeks or during chasing.

3) What to feed them

These are hungry, curious eaters. Mine acted like piranhas at feeding time (without the bite marks). If you keep them well-fed, they’re calmer and less likely to pick at tankmates.

  • Staples: quality pellets/flakes that are meant for omnivores/marine fish
  • Frozen: mysis, brine shrimp (enriched if you can), krill chopped up, prawn, clam
  • Greens: spirulina flakes, blanched spinach, nori sheets clipped to the glass
  • Occasional treats: chopped earthworms or insect-based foods (rinse well)

Feed smaller amounts 2–3 times a day instead of one big dump. You’ll get better growth and less water quality drama.

They learn routines fast. If you hand-feed in the same spot, they’ll pile up there like a school of silver coins.

4) Behavior + tankmates

Moonies are schooling fish, and you can tell when they’re not happy: lone or paired moonies often turn jumpy and skittish, and they may start acting bossy. In a group, they spread the attitude out and settle into that smooth, coordinated cruising they’re known for.

  • Keep them in a group (I like 5+ if your tank can handle it).
  • Expect a pecking order—lots of chasing, usually not much damage if they’ve got space.
  • They’re fast feeders, so slower fish can starve if you don’t target-feed.

Tankmates should like brackish water and be able to handle a busy, pushy feeding time. Good matches are other brackish “community” fish with some speed and confidence.

  • Often works: scats (similar vibe), bumblebee gobies (if not outcompeted), knight gobies, monos of the same species, some brackish-tolerant puffers with caution (depends on the puffer)
  • Use caution: slow, long-finned fish; tiny fish they can bully at meals
  • Avoid: anything that needs pure freshwater long-term, or fish that nip fins constantly

They aren’t “mean,” but they’re relentless at the dinner bell. If your tankmate is timid, you’ll be doing a lot of babysitting at feeding time.

5) Breeding tips (realistic expectations)

Breeding silver moonies in home aquariums is uncommon. Most people keep them as display/behavior fish rather than a breeding project. They’re believed to spawn in more marine conditions, and raising the larvae is the hard part.

If you do want to try: you’re looking at a big group, very clean water, likely higher salinity, and a serious live-food setup for fry (rotifers/copepods). This isn’t a “pair in a 40 breeder” kind of fish.

6) Common problems to watch for

Most moony problems trace back to two things: cramped tanks and dirty water. They’re tough fish, but they don’t hide stress well—when they’re off, you’ll notice fast.

  • Skin/fin issues (bacterial/fungal looking fuzz or frayed fins): often follows ammonia/nitrite spikes or chronically high nitrate
  • Ich/white spot: can happen, especially after shipping; brackish setups sometimes make treatment choices tricky
  • Hollow bellies/slow growth: usually from being outcompeted early on or being fed “light” because you’re afraid of waste
  • Jumping/spooking: new fish, bright lights, sudden movement, or no cover
  • “Pacing” and constant chasing: group too small or tank too tight

Don’t use “aquarium salt” as a vague fix for everything. Moonies want a stable brackish setup, not random salt doses. If you’re treating disease, know the medication’s safety in brackish water and keep salinity consistent during the course.

My personal rule with moonies: if they suddenly stop being bold at feeding time, I test water immediately. They’re usually the first fish in the tank to tell you something’s off.

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