
Silver moony (Mono)
Monodactylus argenteus
Also known as: Silver mono, Mono, Mono angel, Fingerfish, Silver moonfish, Diamondfish, Butter bream, Natal moony, Malayan angel
Silver moonies are those shiny, diamond-shaped "mono" fish you see cruising nonstop in brackish tanks-super active and way more fun to watch when they're in a proper group. They start out in estuaries (often sold too small and too fresh), and the big "gotcha" is they really want you to ramp them up to stronger brackish/near-marine as they grow. Feed them like a hungry, messy omnivore and give them swimming room, and they're absolute show-stealers.

The Silver moony exhibits a high, laterally compressed body with a shimmering silver hue and distinctive black vertical stripes.
This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?
Quick Facts
Size
27 cm (about 10.6 inches)
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
100 gallons
Lifespan
7-10 years
Origin
Indo-West Pacific
Diet
Omnivore - quality pellets/flakes, frozen foods, plus lots of greens/seaweed
Water Parameters
24-28°C
7.5-8.5
10-25 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 24-28°C in a 100 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Don't buy a tiny tank for a baby mono—these grow fast and need a long tank with lots of open swimming room. For a real group (often 5–8+), plan on ~75g as an absolute minimum and ideally 100g+ as they mature; much larger is better for long-term adult size and activity.
- Run them brackish, not "kinda salty": aim around SG 1.005-1.012 (they handle higher as adults), keep pH roughly 7.5-8.5, and don't let nitrate creep up-big water changes pay off with these fish.
- They're jumpy when spooked, so use a tight lid and keep the lighting/corners calm; strong flow and lots of oxygen makes them way more confident.
- Feeding is easy but they're pigs-mix quality pellets/flakes with frozen foods (brine, mysis, bloodworms) and toss in some veg/spirulina; they'll also mow down soft plants and nori.
- Keep them with other brackish, fast, non-bully fish: scats, archerfish, bigger brackish gobies, and similar-speed tankmates work; slow long-finned fish get harassed and tiny fish/shrimp become snacks.
- They do best in a group-solo monos tend to get skittish and can turn nippy, while a small school spreads out the attitude.
- Watch for "new fish" issues: they're prone to ich/velvet when stressed, and they don't love sudden salinity changes-adjust SG slowly over days, not hours.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other Silver moonies / monos (keep a little group, like 5-8 if you've got the room) - they school up, feel safer, and you get way less random sparring than keeping one or two
- Scats (Scatophagus argus) - classic brackish buddy, similar size/attitude, and they can handle the moony "busy" swimming without getting stressed
- Archerfish (Toxotes spp.) - works well in a bigger brackish setup; both are fast feeders, so spread food out so the moonies don't hog everything
- Knight gobies (Stigmatogobius sadanundio) - can work in brackish setups, but ensure the gobies' salinity needs match your long-term plan (adult monos trend toward high brackish/full marine).
- Bigger, tough brackish monos/targets like adult bumblebee gobies' 'upgrade' options: violet goby (Gobioides broussonnetii) or similar robust bottom fish - not tiny snack-sized, and not delicate
- Brackish 'tough guys' like molly groups (yep, the humble molly) - in mildly brackish they do fine, and they're quick enough to not get constantly pushed around (avoid fancy slow strains)
Avoid
- Tiny fish (guppies, endlers, small tetras/rasboras) - moonies are fast, semi-pushy, and once they size up they'll treat small tankmates like snacks or at least stress them into hiding
- Slow, fancy-finned fish (bettas, fancy guppies, longfin mollies, angelfish) - moonies aren't 'fin nippers' in the classic tiger barb way, but they're mouthy and grabby at feeding time and can shred floaty fins by accident
- Super aggressive brackish bruisers (big puffers like green spotted puffers, most large cichlids) - puffers will nail their fins, and heavy hitters turn the tank into a constant stress fest
1) Where they come from (quick backstory)
Silver moonies (Monodactylus argenteus) are classic “coastal” fish. In the wild they cruise around estuaries, mangroves, and river mouths where fresh and salt water mix. That’s why they’re so unfazed by changing conditions… as long as you keep things clean and stable in your tank.
Most moonies in shops are sold small and cute, but they don’t stay that way. They’re a big, fast, schooly fish that appreciates room to move.
2) Setting up their tank
Think “open water with strong filtration.” Moonies are like little silver dinner plates that zip back and forth all day. If you cram them in a short tank, you’ll watch them bonk around and sulk.
- Tank size: I’d treat 4–6 juveniles as a 75g/280L minimum, and bigger is honestly nicer once they start putting on size.
- Footprint matters more than height: longer tanks help a lot.
- Flow + oxygen: they like brisk water movement and high aeration.
- Filtration: oversize it. They eat well and they poop like it’s their job.
Brackish-wise, I’ve had the best results raising them in lower-end brackish as youngsters and gradually bumping salinity as they grow. You don’t need to swing it around—just pick a target and keep it consistent.
Use a refractometer or at least a decent hydrometer. “A little salt” is how people end up with mystery problems. Measure it so you can repeat it after water changes.
Decor is simple: sand, a few pieces of driftwood/rock, maybe some hardy brackish-friendly plants if your salinity isn’t too high. But don’t turn it into a maze—leave them open swimming lanes.
Cover the tank. Moonies can spook and launch, especially the first few weeks or during chasing.
3) What to feed them
These are hungry, curious eaters. Mine acted like piranhas at feeding time (without the bite marks). If you keep them well-fed, they’re calmer and less likely to pick at tankmates.
- Staples: quality pellets/flakes that are meant for omnivores/marine fish
- Frozen: mysis, brine shrimp (enriched if you can), krill chopped up, prawn, clam
- Greens: spirulina flakes, blanched spinach, nori sheets clipped to the glass
- Occasional treats: chopped earthworms or insect-based foods (rinse well)
Feed smaller amounts 2–3 times a day instead of one big dump. You’ll get better growth and less water quality drama.
They learn routines fast. If you hand-feed in the same spot, they’ll pile up there like a school of silver coins.
4) Behavior + tankmates
Moonies are schooling fish, and you can tell when they’re not happy: lone or paired moonies often turn jumpy and skittish, and they may start acting bossy. In a group, they spread the attitude out and settle into that smooth, coordinated cruising they’re known for.
- Keep them in a group (I like 5+ if your tank can handle it).
- Expect a pecking order—lots of chasing, usually not much damage if they’ve got space.
- They’re fast feeders, so slower fish can starve if you don’t target-feed.
Tankmates should like brackish water and be able to handle a busy, pushy feeding time. Good matches are other brackish “community” fish with some speed and confidence.
- Often works: scats (similar vibe), bumblebee gobies (if not outcompeted), knight gobies, monos of the same species, some brackish-tolerant puffers with caution (depends on the puffer)
- Use caution: slow, long-finned fish; tiny fish they can bully at meals
- Avoid: anything that needs pure freshwater long-term, or fish that nip fins constantly
They aren’t “mean,” but they’re relentless at the dinner bell. If your tankmate is timid, you’ll be doing a lot of babysitting at feeding time.
5) Breeding tips (realistic expectations)
Breeding silver moonies in home aquariums is uncommon. Most people keep them as display/behavior fish rather than a breeding project. They’re believed to spawn in more marine conditions, and raising the larvae is the hard part.
If you do want to try: you’re looking at a big group, very clean water, likely higher salinity, and a serious live-food setup for fry (rotifers/copepods). This isn’t a “pair in a 40 breeder” kind of fish.
6) Common problems to watch for
Most moony problems trace back to two things: cramped tanks and dirty water. They’re tough fish, but they don’t hide stress well—when they’re off, you’ll notice fast.
- Skin/fin issues (bacterial/fungal looking fuzz or frayed fins): often follows ammonia/nitrite spikes or chronically high nitrate
- Ich/white spot: can happen, especially after shipping; brackish setups sometimes make treatment choices tricky
- Hollow bellies/slow growth: usually from being outcompeted early on or being fed “light” because you’re afraid of waste
- Jumping/spooking: new fish, bright lights, sudden movement, or no cover
- “Pacing” and constant chasing: group too small or tank too tight
Don’t use “aquarium salt” as a vague fix for everything. Moonies want a stable brackish setup, not random salt doses. If you’re treating disease, know the medication’s safety in brackish water and keep salinity consistent during the course.
My personal rule with moonies: if they suddenly stop being bold at feeding time, I test water immediately. They’re usually the first fish in the tank to tell you something’s off.
Similar Species
Other brackish peaceful species you might be interested in.

African moony
Monodactylus sebae
This is that shiny, diamond-shaped "mono" that cruises around in a tight pack and looks like a little silver dinner plate with black bars when it's young. The big thing with African moonies is they're euryhaline-so they'll tolerate freshwater as juveniles, but they really shine long-term in brackish (and can be transitioned toward marine as they mature). Give them a big, open tank and a group, and they turn into nonstop, super fun midwater swimmers.

Banded-tail glassy perchlet
Ambassis urotaenia
This is one of those see-through glassy perchlets where you can literally watch the organs shimmer when it turns-super cool in the right lighting. In the wild it hangs around river mouths and mangroves and cruises in groups, so it does best when you keep a little gang of them and give them some open swimming room.
-1771643191.jpg)
Elongate mudskipper (pointed-tailed goby)
Pseudapocryptes elongatus (syn. Pseudapocryptes lanceolatus)
This is that super-cool "mudskipper-ish" goby that mostly stays in the water, but will park itself in the shallows and periscope its eyes above the surface like it's keeping watch. It's an obligate air-breather from tidal rivers/estuaries, so it really appreciates shallow, brackish setups with soft mud/sand and gentle flow-more of a mangrove vibe than a typical community tank.

Feathered river-garfish
Zenarchopterus dispar
Zenarchopterus dispar is a surface-hanging halfbeak from mangroves and sheltered bays, with that classic long lower jaw for snapping up insects and other floaty foods. Males get those funky elongated fin rays (the "feathered" look), and they are livebearers, so once they settle in you can occasionally get surprise babies. Biggest thing with this fish is giving it calm water up top, room to cruise, and a tight lid because halfbeaks can rocket-jump.

Hairy pipefish
Urocampus carinirostris
This is a tiny, stick-thin pipefish that lives in seagrass and algae beds and uses its prehensile tail to hang on like a little underwater chameleon. The coolest part is the "hairy" fringing (little filaments) all over the body that breaks up its outline, and like other syngnathids the male carries the eggs in a brood pouch under the tail.
-1771297475.jpg)
Orange chromide
Pseudetroplus maculatus (syn. Etroplus maculatus)
This is that cute little Indian/Sri Lankan cichlid with the big black "shoulder" spot and a warm gold/orange glow when it's happy. It'll do the classic cichlid thing where it gets a bit pushy when breeding, but most of the time it's pretty chill-especially if you keep a small group. Super cool bonus: the parents actively tend the eggs and fry, and the babies even graze on the parents' skin mucus for a bit.
More to Explore
Discover more brackish species.

American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.

Atlantic Mudskipper
Periophthalmus barbarus
This is that wild little amphibious goby that straight-up climbs around on land like it forgot it was a fish. They've got big googly eyes, tons of personality, and they'll perch, hop, and patrol their territory-honestly more like a tiny crabby lizard than a "regular" aquarium fish.

Banded Archerfish
Toxotes jaculatrix
This is the fish that literally spits jets of water to knock insects off branches-watching one "take aim" is unreal. They're super aware of what's going on outside the tank and will even learn to beg and snipe food from the surface once they settle in. Give them height and some open swimming room and they act like little aquatic sharpshooters.

Barred mudskipper
Periophthalmus argentilineatus
This is one of those classic "walks around like it owns the place" mudskippers-big goofy eyes, climbs, hops, and spends a ton of time out on the mud when it's humid. In the wild it lives on intertidal mangrove/nipa mudflats and even shuttles between little pools and open air, hunting worms, insects, and small crustaceans. It's super fun to watch, but it really wants a brackish paludarium setup (not a normal aquarium).

Bumblebee goby
Brachygobius doriae
Brachygobius doriae is one of the classic "bumblebee gobies" - tiny, bottom-hugging little characters that perch on rocks and sand and stare at you like they own the place. They're at their best in a calm setup with lots of caves and leaf litter, and they really shine once you get them eating frozen/live foods reliably (they're slow, picky eaters). Also: they're one of the species that gets mislabeled a lot in shops, so it's super common to see them sold under the wrong bumblebee-goby name.

Bumblebee goby (Bumblebee fish)
Brachygobius xanthozonus
This is that tiny little goby with the bold black-and-yellow bands that likes to perch on the bottom and stare back at you like it owns the place. It's happiest in lightly brackish water with lots of little caves and sight-breaks, and it's one of those fish that often refuses flakes-frozen/live meaty foods usually flip the "yes, I will eat" switch.
Looking for other species?
