
Chekopa Mylochromis
Mylochromis chekopae

Chekopa Mylochromis exhibits vibrant blue and yellow hues, with elongated fins and distinct markings along its body.
This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?
About the Chekopa Mylochromis
This is a Lake Malawi "hap" from the Mylochromis group that hangs out deeper over sand and works the bottom for tiny foods. In the wild its menu is basically little crustaceans plus some algae, so it does best long-term when you feed it like a grazing micro-predator instead of a pure carnivore.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
12.2 cm SL
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
55 gallons
Lifespan
6-10 years
Origin
East Africa (Lake Malawi)
Diet
Omnivore/micro-predator - small crustaceans (frozen/live), quality pellets, some spirulina/veg-based foods
Water Parameters
24-28°C
7.8-8.6
10-25 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 24-28°C in a 55 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a roomy Malawi-style tank (75g+ for a group) with lots of open sand to cruise and a rock pile at one end for line-of-sight breaks.
- Keep pH up around 7.8-8.6 and temp 76-80F; they get cranky fast in soft/acidic water, so use a Malawi buffer or crushed coral if your tap is weak.
- They love to dig, so use sand or very fine gravel and skip delicate plants unless they're tough and anchored hard (or just go with rocks and fake plants).
- Feed like an omnivore with a protein lean: quality cichlid pellets as the staple, then mix in krill/mysis/spinach-based foods; don't hammer them with fatty feeder fish or constant high-protein treats.
- They do best with other medium-to-large Lake Malawi haps/peacocks that can hold their own; avoid tiny mbuna that will get bullied and super-aggressive stuff that will keep them pinned.
- Stocking trick: keep one male with several females if you can, because two males in the same space will spend all day posturing and chasing instead of eating.
- Breeding is classic mouthbrooder behavior: females hold eggs/fry in the mouth for a few weeks, so if you want babies, move her to a quiet tank or you'll never see the fry.
- Watch for bloat signs (stringy poop, hiding, swollen belly) after heavy feeding or stress - back off food for a day or two and keep the diet cleaner rather than tossing random meds at it.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other medium-to-large Malawi haps with similar attitude (think Copadichromis, Protomelas, Sciaenochromis) - they can take the posturing and usually mind their own business in a big tank
- Utaka-type open water Malawi fish (Copadichromis borleyi, Kadango, etc.) - good mix of speed and confidence, and they do fine with the sand-and-swim lifestyle
- Medium peacocks (Aulonocara) that are not super timid - they usually slot in fine as long as you are not cramming the tank and you have lots of sight breaks
- Synodontis catfish (like S. multipunctatus or petricola) - tough as nails, active at night, and they do not care about cichlid drama
- Adult bristlenose pleco in a Malawi setup - works if you have solid caves and keep it well fed, since chekopae will cruise the bottom and can be pushy around food
Avoid
- Anything small and snack-sized (tetras, danios, small barbs, livebearer fry) - chekopae are predators and will absolutely test what fits in their mouth
- Mbuna that are extra feisty or super territorial (especially in cramped rock piles) - different vibe, lots of constant sparring, and somebody usually ends up shredded
- Slow fish with long fancy fins (angelfish, guppies, bettas) - wrong water style and they get harassed or fin-nipped to death
Where they come from
Mylochromis chekopae is a Lake Malawi hap, and it really acts like one. In the wild they cruise open areas and sandy stretches, picking at small foods and moving around a lot more than the rock-hugging mbuna. That background helps explain why they get stressed in tiny, cluttered tanks and why they look their best with space to roam.
If you have kept mbuna before, expect a different vibe: less constant rock-grazing, more cruising and posturing in open water.
Setting up their tank
Give them a longer tank if you can. They are active, and the chasing (especially once a male colors up) is way easier to manage with length. I like sand as the main substrate, plus a few rock piles or sturdy caves to break line of sight. You do not need a whole reef wall like you would for mbuna.
- Tank size: I would start at 75 gallons for a group, bigger if you want multiple males or a busy mixed hap setup
- Substrate: sand or fine gravel (sand makes their natural behavior pop)
- Hardscape: a couple rock piles or caves spaced apart, leave open swimming lanes
- Filtration: heavy. Malawi fish are messy, and these guys eat like pigs once settled
- Water movement: moderate flow is plenty, but keep oxygen high
Water-wise, treat them like typical Malawi fish: hard, alkaline, and stable. If your tap is already on the harder side, you are probably fine with regular water changes. If your water is soft, you can buffer it, but stability matters more than chasing a magic number.
Line-of-sight breaks are your best friend. One extra rock pile can save you a lot of stress if a male decides one corner is his kingdom.
What to feed them
These are not strict herbivores like many mbuna, so you have more flexibility. Still, I would not slam them with super-rich foods all day. A good routine is a quality cichlid pellet as the staple, with frozen foods as a few-times-a-week add-on.
- Staple: medium-sized quality pellets or granules made for Malawi haps/peacocks
- Frozen treats: mysis, brine shrimp, krill (go easy), chopped prawn occasionally
- Extras: spirulina-based foods are fine in the rotation and help keep things balanced
- Avoid: feeding like a predator tank (too much fatty food, too often)
If you see long stringy poop, swelling, or a fish hanging back after meals, back off the rich foods and tighten up water changes. Malawi bloat is not fun, and it can hit fast.
How they behave and who they get along with
Chekopae are classic haps: they are not usually out to murder everything, but males can be pushy, and they do a lot of dominance chasing. In my tanks they settled down best in groups where the attention gets spread out, or in a mixed hap/peacock community with similarly sized tankmates.
- Best setup: one male with several females (a small harem) if you want calm behavior
- Works with: other medium-large Malawi haps and peacocks that are not tiny or super timid
- Be careful with: very mild species, slow eaters, or anything much smaller
- Skip: mixing with aggressive mbuna unless you have a big tank and you already know what you are doing
If a male is relentlessly targeting one fish, it is usually a tank layout or stocking issue. Add a few more line-of-sight breaks, consider adding more females, or rethink the mix. Sometimes the simplest fix is removing the bullied fish before it gets worn down.
Breeding tips
They are maternal mouthbrooders like most Malawi haps. If you keep one male with a few females and feed well, you will probably see a female holding sooner or later. She will stop eating and carry the eggs/fry in her mouth for a few weeks.
- Spawning usually happens on sand or a cleared patch near a rock
- A holding female looks like she is chewing and often stays on the edges of the group
- You can let her hold in the main tank if the tank is calm and not overstocked
- If you strip or move her, do it gently and only if you already have a plan for the fry
If you want to raise fry, have a separate grow-out tank ready. In a busy community, fry are basically live snacks the second they leave mom.
Common problems to watch for
Most of the trouble I have seen with chekopae is not mysterious disease, it is stress. Stress from cramped tanks, nonstop chasing, or sloppy water quality shows up as faded color, clamped fins, and fish that hover in the top corners.
- Aggression injuries: torn fins and missing scales from dominance fights
- Malawi bloat: swelling, loss of appetite, stringy poop (often tied to stress + rich feeding)
- Ich outbreaks after big changes: temperature swings and new fish are common triggers
- Spooked fish: they can bolt hard, so use a tight-fitting lid and avoid sudden lights-on moments
Do not ignore a fish that is getting pinned in one corner. Once a hap gets run down, it can go from 'fine' to dead in a couple days. Remove the bully or the victim and reset the social balance.
If you keep their water clean, give them room, and stock them with tankmates that can handle a little attitude, they are a really rewarding Malawi hap to keep. The key is managing the social dynamics more than chasing fancy numbers.
Similar Species
Other freshwater semi-aggressive species you might be interested in.

American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.

Amur sculpin
Alpinocottus szanaga
This is a little coldwater sculpin from the Amur drainage - a bottom-hugging, rock-and-gravel fish that spends its day wedged under stones and darting out to grab food. Super cool behavior and attitude, but it is absolutely not a warm tropical community fish - it wants chilly, fast, oxygen-rich water and will bicker with other bottom fish.

Anitápolis livebearer
Jenynsia weitzmani
Jenynsia weitzmani is a freshwater anablepid livebearer endemic to southern Brazil (currently known only from the type locality near Anitápolis, Santa Catarina). Like other Jenynsia (onesided livebearers), reproduction involves lateralized mating morphology/behavior; aquarium care guidance is not well-documented for this species specifically.

Aracu-comum
Schizodon vittatus
Schizodon vittatus is a large South American anostomid (family Anostomidae). Reported maximum size is about 35 cm standard length; it is harvested/consumed in parts of Brazil and is not commonly covered by mainstream aquarium husbandry references.

Banded Leporinus
Leporinus fasciatus
Banded Leporinus are those torpedo-shaped, black-and-yellow striped fish that look like they're wearing a little prison outfit-and they stay on the move. They've got a ton of personality and they're awesome to watch cruising and picking at stuff, but they're also the kind of fish that will redecorate your tank and "taste test" anything soft-looking.

Bandi cichlid
Wallaceochromis signatus
Wallaceochromis signatus is a West African (Guinea, Kolente basin/Bandi River) dwarf cichlid that has appeared in the hobby under trade names such as “Bandi I/Bandi 1” and “Guinea” prior to/alongside its formal description. It is a cave-associated dwarf cichlid; provide cover and caves and expect heightened territoriality during breeding.
More to Explore
Discover more freshwater species.

Ajuricaba tetra
Jupiaba ajuricaba
Jupiaba ajuricaba is a South American freshwater characin from the Amazon basin in Brazil (rio Negro, rio Solimões, and rio Tapajós basins). It reaches about 9.5 cm SL and is diagnosed by a narrow dark midlateral stripe, an elongated humeral spot, and an ocellated spot on the upper caudal-fin lobe. Wild specimens have been collected from blackwater forest streams and also oxbow-lake habitats.

Amapa tetra
Hyphessobrycon amapaensis
This is a tiny, super sleek little tetra with a clean red stripe down the side that really pops once its settled in. It does best in a planted, slightly tinted "creek-style" setup and looks way cooler when you keep a proper group so they school and flash that line together. If you can give it soft, slightly acidic water and a calm community, its an easy fish to fall for.

Anteridorsal Homatula loach
Homatula anteridorsalis
This is a benthic Chinese stream loach from Yunnan that lives right down on the bottom in clear, flowing water over gravel and rocks. Think of it as a "river tank" fish - it wants current, oxygen, and lots of surfaces to poke around on for bits of food and algae.

Armoured stickleback
Indostomus paradoxus
This is that goofy little "freshwater seahorse"-looking fish that just kind of perches and scoots around like a tiny armored twig. Its whole vibe is slow, sneaky micropredator - once its settled in, you will catch it stalking microfoods and doing these subtle little posture displays. The big trick is feeding: they do best when you can provide lots of small live foods in a calm, planted tank.

Arnegard's electric fish
Petrocephalus arnegardi
This is a little Congo River elephantfish (a weakly electric mormyrid) that cruises the lower parts of the tank and navigates the world with its electric sense. It stays small (around 9 cm) and has a clean silvery look with three dark marks that make it pretty easy to pick out among Petrocephalus.

Aroa twig catfish
Farlowella martini
Farlowella martini is one of those unreal-looking stick catfish that just vanishes the moment it parks itself on a branch. It is a super calm, slow-moving grazer that does best in a mature tank with lots of biofilm, gentle flow, and clean, oxygen-rich water - they are not great at competing at feeding time, so you kind of have to look out for them.
Looking for other species?
