Piscora
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Chekopa Mylochromis

Mylochromis chekopae

AI-generated illustration of Chekopa Mylochromis
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Chekopa Mylochromis exhibits vibrant blue and yellow hues, with elongated fins and distinct markings along its body.

Freshwater

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About the Chekopa Mylochromis

This is a Lake Malawi "hap" from the Mylochromis group that hangs out deeper over sand and works the bottom for tiny foods. In the wild its menu is basically little crustaceans plus some algae, so it does best long-term when you feed it like a grazing micro-predator instead of a pure carnivore.

Also known as

Chekopa hap

Quick Facts

Size

12.2 cm SL

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

55 gallons

Lifespan

6-10 years

Origin

East Africa (Lake Malawi)

Diet

Omnivore/micro-predator - small crustaceans (frozen/live), quality pellets, some spirulina/veg-based foods

Water Parameters

Temperature

24-28°C

pH

7.8-8.6

Hardness

10-25 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a roomy Malawi-style tank (75g+ for a group) with lots of open sand to cruise and a rock pile at one end for line-of-sight breaks.
  • Keep pH up around 7.8-8.6 and temp 76-80F; they get cranky fast in soft/acidic water, so use a Malawi buffer or crushed coral if your tap is weak.
  • They love to dig, so use sand or very fine gravel and skip delicate plants unless they're tough and anchored hard (or just go with rocks and fake plants).
  • Feed like an omnivore with a protein lean: quality cichlid pellets as the staple, then mix in krill/mysis/spinach-based foods; don't hammer them with fatty feeder fish or constant high-protein treats.
  • They do best with other medium-to-large Lake Malawi haps/peacocks that can hold their own; avoid tiny mbuna that will get bullied and super-aggressive stuff that will keep them pinned.
  • Stocking trick: keep one male with several females if you can, because two males in the same space will spend all day posturing and chasing instead of eating.
  • Breeding is classic mouthbrooder behavior: females hold eggs/fry in the mouth for a few weeks, so if you want babies, move her to a quiet tank or you'll never see the fry.
  • Watch for bloat signs (stringy poop, hiding, swollen belly) after heavy feeding or stress - back off food for a day or two and keep the diet cleaner rather than tossing random meds at it.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other medium-to-large Malawi haps with similar attitude (think Copadichromis, Protomelas, Sciaenochromis) - they can take the posturing and usually mind their own business in a big tank
  • Utaka-type open water Malawi fish (Copadichromis borleyi, Kadango, etc.) - good mix of speed and confidence, and they do fine with the sand-and-swim lifestyle
  • Medium peacocks (Aulonocara) that are not super timid - they usually slot in fine as long as you are not cramming the tank and you have lots of sight breaks
  • Synodontis catfish (like S. multipunctatus or petricola) - tough as nails, active at night, and they do not care about cichlid drama
  • Adult bristlenose pleco in a Malawi setup - works if you have solid caves and keep it well fed, since chekopae will cruise the bottom and can be pushy around food

Avoid

  • Anything small and snack-sized (tetras, danios, small barbs, livebearer fry) - chekopae are predators and will absolutely test what fits in their mouth
  • Mbuna that are extra feisty or super territorial (especially in cramped rock piles) - different vibe, lots of constant sparring, and somebody usually ends up shredded
  • Slow fish with long fancy fins (angelfish, guppies, bettas) - wrong water style and they get harassed or fin-nipped to death

Where they come from

Mylochromis chekopae is a Lake Malawi hap, and it really acts like one. In the wild they cruise open areas and sandy stretches, picking at small foods and moving around a lot more than the rock-hugging mbuna. That background helps explain why they get stressed in tiny, cluttered tanks and why they look their best with space to roam.

If you have kept mbuna before, expect a different vibe: less constant rock-grazing, more cruising and posturing in open water.

Setting up their tank

Give them a longer tank if you can. They are active, and the chasing (especially once a male colors up) is way easier to manage with length. I like sand as the main substrate, plus a few rock piles or sturdy caves to break line of sight. You do not need a whole reef wall like you would for mbuna.

  • Tank size: I would start at 75 gallons for a group, bigger if you want multiple males or a busy mixed hap setup
  • Substrate: sand or fine gravel (sand makes their natural behavior pop)
  • Hardscape: a couple rock piles or caves spaced apart, leave open swimming lanes
  • Filtration: heavy. Malawi fish are messy, and these guys eat like pigs once settled
  • Water movement: moderate flow is plenty, but keep oxygen high

Water-wise, treat them like typical Malawi fish: hard, alkaline, and stable. If your tap is already on the harder side, you are probably fine with regular water changes. If your water is soft, you can buffer it, but stability matters more than chasing a magic number.

Line-of-sight breaks are your best friend. One extra rock pile can save you a lot of stress if a male decides one corner is his kingdom.

What to feed them

These are not strict herbivores like many mbuna, so you have more flexibility. Still, I would not slam them with super-rich foods all day. A good routine is a quality cichlid pellet as the staple, with frozen foods as a few-times-a-week add-on.

  • Staple: medium-sized quality pellets or granules made for Malawi haps/peacocks
  • Frozen treats: mysis, brine shrimp, krill (go easy), chopped prawn occasionally
  • Extras: spirulina-based foods are fine in the rotation and help keep things balanced
  • Avoid: feeding like a predator tank (too much fatty food, too often)

If you see long stringy poop, swelling, or a fish hanging back after meals, back off the rich foods and tighten up water changes. Malawi bloat is not fun, and it can hit fast.

How they behave and who they get along with

Chekopae are classic haps: they are not usually out to murder everything, but males can be pushy, and they do a lot of dominance chasing. In my tanks they settled down best in groups where the attention gets spread out, or in a mixed hap/peacock community with similarly sized tankmates.

  • Best setup: one male with several females (a small harem) if you want calm behavior
  • Works with: other medium-large Malawi haps and peacocks that are not tiny or super timid
  • Be careful with: very mild species, slow eaters, or anything much smaller
  • Skip: mixing with aggressive mbuna unless you have a big tank and you already know what you are doing

If a male is relentlessly targeting one fish, it is usually a tank layout or stocking issue. Add a few more line-of-sight breaks, consider adding more females, or rethink the mix. Sometimes the simplest fix is removing the bullied fish before it gets worn down.

Breeding tips

They are maternal mouthbrooders like most Malawi haps. If you keep one male with a few females and feed well, you will probably see a female holding sooner or later. She will stop eating and carry the eggs/fry in her mouth for a few weeks.

  • Spawning usually happens on sand or a cleared patch near a rock
  • A holding female looks like she is chewing and often stays on the edges of the group
  • You can let her hold in the main tank if the tank is calm and not overstocked
  • If you strip or move her, do it gently and only if you already have a plan for the fry

If you want to raise fry, have a separate grow-out tank ready. In a busy community, fry are basically live snacks the second they leave mom.

Common problems to watch for

Most of the trouble I have seen with chekopae is not mysterious disease, it is stress. Stress from cramped tanks, nonstop chasing, or sloppy water quality shows up as faded color, clamped fins, and fish that hover in the top corners.

  • Aggression injuries: torn fins and missing scales from dominance fights
  • Malawi bloat: swelling, loss of appetite, stringy poop (often tied to stress + rich feeding)
  • Ich outbreaks after big changes: temperature swings and new fish are common triggers
  • Spooked fish: they can bolt hard, so use a tight-fitting lid and avoid sudden lights-on moments

Do not ignore a fish that is getting pinned in one corner. Once a hap gets run down, it can go from 'fine' to dead in a couple days. Remove the bully or the victim and reset the social balance.

If you keep their water clean, give them room, and stock them with tankmates that can handle a little attitude, they are a really rewarding Malawi hap to keep. The key is managing the social dynamics more than chasing fancy numbers.

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