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Mylochromis labidodon

Mylochromis labidodon

AI-generated illustration of Mylochromis labidodon
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Mylochromis labidodon exhibits a vibrant yellow body with distinctive blue markings and elongated dorsal and anal fins, typical of its genus.

Freshwater

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About the Mylochromis labidodon

A sandy-bottom Lake Malawi hap that spends its day flipping pebbles to nab little critters hiding underneath. It looks understated and sleek with bars and a thin red edge on the dorsal, and it really comes into its own in a big, open sand tank where you can watch that stone-turning hunt.

Also known as

Stenvändarciklid

Quick Facts

Size

7 inches (18 cm)

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

106 gallons

Lifespan

6-10 years

Origin

East Africa - Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe

Diet

Carnivore - invertebrates; takes quality pellets, frozen foods

Water Parameters

Temperature

23-28°C

pH

7.5-8.5

Hardness

5-15 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 23-28°C in a 106 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a 4-foot+ tank (75g+ for a male and a small harem) with open swimming room, a few rock piles, and a soft sand bed 1-2 inches deep.
  • Run Malawi-style water: 76-80 F, pH 7.8-8.4, KH 7-12 dKH, hard water (GH 10-20 dGH), and nitrates under 20 ppm; change 30-50% weekly and keep strong surface agitation.
  • They are sand-sifting insectivores, so feed sinking carnivore pellets plus frozen mysis/krill/brine; 1-2 small meals a day and skip one day a week to dodge bloat.
  • Tankmates: similarly sized, moderately pushy haps and peacocks work; skip hyper-aggressive mbuna and any small fish that can be swallowed. Avoid mixing with other Mylochromis species to prevent hybrids.
  • They constantly move sand, so place rocks directly on the glass before adding sand and shield filter intakes so they do not get buried.
  • Plan for a harem ratio (1 male to 3-4 females); males claim sand patches and get extra feisty when coloring up.
  • Breeding is maternal mouthbrooding: the female holds 18-21 days; move a holding female to a quiet tank near release if you want to save more fry.
  • Common pitfalls: Malawi bloat and torn fins from scuffles; if they clamp fins or go off food, do a big water change, boost aeration, and add more line-of-sight breaks.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Other medium Malawi haps of similar size like Copadichromis, Protomelas, or Sciaenochromis - can hold their own without being nonstop brawlers
  • Aulonocara peacocks of similar size - colorful, moderately assertive, and fine if you keep good male-to-female ratios
  • Select mellow mbuna like Labidochromis caeruleus or Iodotropheus sprengerae in a big tank with plenty of rockwork and line-of-sight breaks
  • Robust Synodontis catfish (njassae, multipunctatus, petricola) - tough bottom neighbors that ignore cichlid drama
  • Bristlenose plecos and other hardy, non-spiny-nosed plecos - stay out of the way and handle Malawi pH just fine
  • A small harem of their own species (1 male to 3-4 females) if the tank is spacious - spreads out the male's attention

Avoid

  • Highly aggressive mbuna like Melanochromis auratus, Labeotropheus, or Pseudotropheus demasoni - nonstop chasing and fin damage
  • Tiny community fish like tetras, guppies, and rasboras - they read as snacks or get hammered by the cichlid attitude
  • Slow fish with fancy fins like angelfish, gouramis, or goldfish - wrong water and easy targets for nipping
  • Look-alike sand-dwelling haps or other Mylochromis males - intense rivalry and a real risk of hybridizing

Where they come from

Mylochromis labidodon is a sand-dwelling hap from Lake Malawi in East Africa. You mostly find them cruising over open sandy flats with patches of plants, picking at tiny critters and sifting mouthfuls of sand. Males set up little display spots on the sand and flash those fins to passing females.

Setting up their tank

Think open beach with a few landmarks. They spend a lot of time sifting, so give them a big footprint and a wide swath of fine sand. Add a couple rock piles for line-of-sight breaks and, if you like plants, tall grasses like Vallisneria along the back and sides.

  • Tank size: 75+ gallons for one male with 3-4 females. Bigger is smoother for behavior.
  • Substrate: fine sand (0.5-1 mm). Skip gravel. They take mouthfuls and spit it out all day.
  • Water: hard and alkaline - pH 7.8-8.4, KH 8-12 dKH, GH 6-12 dGH, temp 75-80 F (24-27 C).
  • Filtration: strong and oxygen-rich. Aim for 5-8x turnover and lots of surface agitation.
  • Aquascape: open sand in the middle, a couple rock piles at the ends, tall plants if you want.
  • Lid: tight-fitting. They are quick and can jump during spats.

Pool filter sand or sugar-fine aragonite works great. Rinse until the water runs clear, or you will be dusting your house for a week.

If your tap water is soft, a little crushed coral in the filter or a Malawi buffer helps hold pH and KH steady.

What to feed them

They are sand sifters that eat small invertebrates in the lake. In the tank they do well on a varied, meaty diet, but go easy on rich, fatty foods. Overdoing it is how you end up with Malawi bloat.

  • Daily base: quality cichlid pellets for carnivores/omnivores (medium size).
  • Frozen foods a few times a week: mysis, brine shrimp, daphnia, chopped krill.
  • Treats, not staples: bloodworms (sparingly), blackworms (clean source only).
  • A little roughage: spirulina flakes or algae wafers once or twice a week.
  • Feeding rhythm: 2 small meals per day, what they finish in 30-60 seconds. A light fasting day once a week keeps them trim.

Avoid mammal-based foods (beef heart) and constant high-protein binges. That combo is a bloat magnet for Malawi haps.

How they behave and who they get along with

Generally laid-back for a Malawi cichlid, but the male will protect his patch of sand, especially in breeding mode. They cruise mid-bottom, sift sand, and do quick dashes if another male looks too bold.

  • Good tankmates: peaceful haps (e.g., Placidochromis), most Aulonocara (peacocks), Synodontis catfish, rainbowfish as dithers.
  • Use caution: mbuna. Many are too pushy and will harass them unless the tank is big and stocked carefully.
  • Avoid: other Mylochromis that look similar (hybrid risk) and very aggressive haps.
  • Stocking tip: one male with several females spreads attention; keep only one male unless you have a very large tank with multiple territories.

Break up sightlines with rocks and tall plants. Two males may tolerate each other better if they cannot see across the tank in a straight line.

Breeding tips

They are maternal mouthbrooders. A ready male will clean a patch of sand and shimmy like a show-off. The female lays, scoops the eggs, and he fertilizes them as she circles.

  • Ratio: 1 male to 3-4 females keeps the peace.
  • Setup: big open sand area for the male's display. Keep the current gentle over that zone.
  • Incubation: roughly 18-24 days. A holding female will lay low and skip meals.
  • Options: let her hold in the main tank (add hiding) or move her to a quiet maternity tank.
  • Stripping: if you strip, do it around day 12-16 and use an egg tumbler if they are not yet free-swimming.
  • Fry food: freshly hatched baby brine shrimp, crushed flake, and powdered fry food. Small, frequent feeds and very clean water.

Give the female a week of good feeding after she releases before putting her back with a pushy male. A thin mom gets chased hard.

Common problems to watch for

  • Malawi bloat: swollen belly, stringy white poop, hiding. Usually from stress plus rich foods. Fix the diet, raise oxygen, big water changes, and act fast.
  • Aggression spikes: too many males, similar-looking species, or cramped layouts. Reset territories and add cover.
  • Poor color and skittish behavior: low minerals or fluctuating pH. Stabilize KH and keep nitrates low.
  • Mouth injuries: sharp gravel can scrape while they sift. Switch to fine sand.
  • Plant uprooting: they dig. Use heavy root tabs and plant in clusters or pots.
  • Jumping: secure all gaps around lids and filter cutouts.

Quarantine new fish for 3-4 weeks. Wild-caught Malawi cichlids often carry parasites, and one bad introduction can wipe a tank.

Regular routine: weekly 30-50% water changes, vacuum the top layer of sand lightly, and rinse prefilters. Stable, clean water keeps these guys looking fantastic.

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