Numamutsu
Nipponocypris sieboldii
Numamutsu exhibits a sleek, elongated body with a silvery sheen, accented by distinctive dark spots along its flanks.
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About the Numamutsu
Nipponocypris sieboldii (Numamutsu) is a Japanese native minnow-type fish that likes calmer water than a lot of stream cyprinids, but it is still a strong, active swimmer. Give it room and some current, and it really comes into its own in a group with lots of open swimming space.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
12.5 cm SL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
30 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
Japan
Diet
Omnivore - quality pellets/flakes plus frozen/live foods (insects, small crustaceans)
Water Parameters
5-30°C
7-8
5-15 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a long tank with current - they are river minnows and get twitchy in a tall, still setup. A powerhead or strong filter outlet plus smooth gravel and a few round rocks makes them act normal.
- They color up and stay active in cooler freshwater: aim around 60-72F (15-22C), with steady oxygen and low nitrate. If the surface looks lazy or they hang near the outlet, add more flow and aeration.
- Keep them in a group (6+ if you can) or they get skittish and hidey. In a small group, one fish usually turns into a jerk and chases everyone.
- Feed like a picky omnivore: small pellets or flakes as the base, then rotate in frozen daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms, and a bit of veggie (spirulina flake or blanched spinach). Small meals 1-2 times a day beats dumping a big feeding that just fouls the water.
- Good tankmates are other cool-water, fast fish that like flow (danios, other minnows) and bottom buddies like loaches that can handle current. Skip slow fancy fins and long-tailed goldfish-type fish - they get nipped and outcompeted at feeding time.
- Breeding is doable if you give them a spawning mop or fine-leaf plants and a cooler-to-warmer seasonal swing; males chase and scatter eggs. Pull the adults after you see spawning because they will snack on the eggs and tiny fry.
- Watch for rubbing and clamped fins when the water gets warm or stale - they hate low oxygen and sudden temp swings. Quarantine new fish because they can pick up ich fast, and strong flow can hide early symptoms until it is advanced.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other cool-water, peaceful schooling fish - think danios (zebra, pearl, leopard) that like to cruise and wont freak out when the Numamutsu start zipping around
- White Cloud Mountain minnows - same general vibe: hardy, peaceful, likes it a bit cooler, and they all do better in groups so the tank looks natural
- Small rasboras that handle moderate temps - harlequin or similar, as long as nobody is trying to be a fin-nipper and the tank has open swimming space
- Peaceful bottom crews - hillstream loaches if you run good flow and oxygen, or smaller Corydoras if temps are not too cold (they stay out of each others way)
- Dojo/weather loach in a bigger, cooler setup - they are goofy but generally gentle, and Numamutsu dont mind a chunky bottom buddy as long as there is room
- Peaceful algae and rock pickers like Otocinclus (in stable tanks) - they ignore each other, and Oto is quick enough to not get stressed by active midwater fish
Avoid
- Anything aggressive or territorial like cichlids (convicts, mbuna, many dwarfs when spawning) - Numamutsu are peaceful and just get pushed around
- Nippy fish like tiger barbs or serpae tetras - the constant chasing and fin pecking turns a calm minnow tank into a stress fest
- Big predators - snakeheads, arowana, large catfish, big bassy stuff - if it fits in their mouth, it is food, and these minnows are always out in the open
- Slow, fancy-finned fish like bettas or longfin guppies - not always attacked, but the mismatch is real: different temps, different pace, and the active minnows can stress them out
Where they come from
Numamutsu (Nipponocypris sieboldii) is a Japanese cyprinid you will see referenced in the context of rivers and streams in Japan. Think clear-ish freshwater with current, seasonal temperature swings, and lots of natural foods drifting by. That stream-fish background explains most of what they want in the aquarium: room to swim, high oxygen, and clean water.
Setting up their tank
Give them space first. They are active, midwater swimmers and they look best when they can cruise in a group. If you keep them in a cramped tank, they get skittish and you will see more nipping and frantic dashing.
- Tank size: I would not bother with anything under 30 gallons for a small group. Bigger is noticeably easier.
- Group size: 6+ is where they start acting natural. 10+ is even better if your tank can handle it.
- Flow and oxygen: a strong filter, a powerhead, or a spray bar aimed along the length of the tank helps a lot.
- Temperature: they handle cool to moderate temps well. I run them unheated in a room-temp setup most of the year.
- Hardscape: smooth gravel or sand, rounded stones, and a few pieces of wood. Leave open lanes for swimming.
- Plants: tough stuff that can handle current (Java fern, Anubias, Bolbitis). Floating plants are fine if you do not let them block all surface movement.
If you are used to slow, planted community tanks, add more surface agitation than you think you need. These fish perk up with extra oxygen and steady current.
Water parameters do not need to be fussy, but stability matters. Neutral-ish pH and moderate hardness are totally workable. What they really react to is dirty water and low oxygen. Keep up with water changes and do not let mulm build up in the flow path.
What to feed them
They are classic omnivores that act like little vacuum cleaners in the water column. Mine take prepared foods readily, but they color up and fill out better when you mix it up.
- Staples: quality flake or small pellets (they do fine with most community foods).
- Protein boosts: frozen daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms (not every day, but regularly).
- Small live foods: live daphnia or mosquito larvae if you can source them safely.
- Greens and plant-based: spirulina flakes, blanched spinach bits, or an algae-based wafer broken up for the group.
Easy mistake: overfeeding because they always act hungry. Feed smaller portions 1-2 times a day and watch the belly line. Extra food in a high-flow tank still rots somewhere.
How they behave and who they get along with
In a group, they are busy but not mean. You will see chasing, especially around feeding time, but it is usually bluff and pecking order stuff. If the group is too small, that energy lands on one fish and you get stressed runts or fin wear.
- Best tankmates: other streamy, non-bullying fish that like similar temps and current (danios, many loaches, some gobies, smaller barbs that are not fin-nippers).
- Bottom buddies: hillstream loaches and similar algae grazers can work well if you keep oxygen high.
- Avoid: slow, long-finned fish (they can get harassed), and super warm-water species that want 78-82F all year.
- Shrimp/snails: adults are usually fine, but tiny shrimp shrimplets are fair game if they can catch them.
They look their best in a long tank with a clear "river run". If you only have a tall tank, you can still keep them, but you will not see the same natural schooling and gliding behavior.
Breeding tips
Breeding is doable, but it is not like livebearers where babies just appear. They are egg scatterers. If you want fry, you need to plan for the adults eating eggs (because they will).
- Condition the group: feed heavier for a couple weeks with frozen/live foods.
- Trigger: a cooler period followed by a slight warm-up and a big water change can kick off spawning behavior.
- Spawning setup: fine-leaved plants, spawning mops, or a mesh/egg grate so eggs fall out of reach.
- Collecting eggs: check mops daily and move eggs to a separate small tank with gentle aeration.
- Fry food: infusoria or powdered fry food at first, then baby brine shrimp once they can take it.
If you only want to see spawning behavior (not raise fry), just add a couple spawning mops in the main tank. You will still get the chase-and-dither show, and the adults will clean up the eggs.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with Numamutsu are setup-related: not enough oxygen, not enough swimming room, or a group that is too small. Fix the environment and a lot of "mystery stress" clears up.
- Gasping at the surface: usually low oxygen or not enough surface agitation, sometimes a dirty filter slowing flow.
- Clamped fins and hiding: often from ammonia/nitrite spikes, sudden temp swings, or being kept in a tiny group.
- Fin nips and ragged edges: too few fish, cramped tank, or you paired them with other nippy species.
- White spot/ich after new fish: they can catch it like any cyprinid. Quarantine new arrivals and do not swing temps wildly.
- Thin fish despite eating: check for internal parasites and review diet variety. Also watch for bullying at feeding time.
They do not love neglecty, low-maintenance setups. If you skip water changes and let the filter clog, they will tell you fast with off behavior and faded color.
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