
Black River madtom
Noturus maydeni

The Black River madtom features a slender body, dark coloration, and distinctive barbels, aiding in its identification among catfish species.
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About the Black River madtom
Noturus maydeni is a tiny little riffle catfish from the Ozarks that lives tucked into cool, clear, fast water over gravel and rocks. Its claim to fame is being super range-limited (Black and St. Francis river drainages), and like other madtoms its pectoral spines can give you a nasty poke if you grab it wrong.
Quick Facts
Size
8.1 cm SL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Advanced
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
3-6 years
Origin
North America (USA - Arkansas and Missouri)
Diet
Carnivore/invertivore - insect larvae, small crustaceans; in captivity small sinking meaty foods and frozen/live inverts
Water Parameters
2-26°C
7-8
4-15 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give it a river-style tank: tight lid, strong flow, lots of oxygen, and a sand-to-small-pebble bottom with flat rocks and crevices to wedge into.
- Keep it cool and clean - think mid 60s to low 70s F, steady pH around neutral, and basically zero ammonia/nitrite; they go downhill fast in warm, stale water.
- Feed after lights-out because they are shy and nocturnal: sinking carnivore pellets, live/frozen blackworms, bloodworms, chopped earthworms, and small crayfish bits.
- Skip flaky food and floating stuff - it will get outcompeted; target feed with tongs or a pipette right at its hide if tankmates are bold.
- Tankmates: other cool-water stream fish that do not hassle the bottom (darters and some shiners can work); avoid aggressive sunfish, big catfish, and anything that will steal caves.
- Do not mix with shrimp or tiny fish you are attached to - if it fits in that mouth at night, it is fair game.
- If you ever try breeding, stack flat rocks or make tight PVC/rock caves - males like a snug roofed spot to guard eggs, and flow across the nest helps.
- Watch for frayed barbels and belly abrasions from sharp gravel, and keep nitrates low; they sulk, stop eating, and then it snowballs.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Darters (like rainbow or fantail darters) - they like the same cool, clean, well-oxygenated setup and mostly ignore the madtom. Lots of rocks and leaf litter and everybody just does their own thing.
- Minnows/shiners (rosyface, spotfin, or other native shiners) - fast, midwater fish that will not hassle a madtom hiding under cover. They also handle the current and cooler temps well.
- Small suckers or algae grazers that stay peaceful (juvenile white sucker, northern hogsucker in a big enough tank) - they are busy on the bottom but not typically bullies, and they do not fixate on the madtom.
- Stonerollers (central stoneroller and similar) - steady, non-predatory, and usually fine with a secretive catfish as long as you have space and you spread food around so the madtom still gets its share at night.
- Other peaceful small catfish that are not pushy (tadpole madtoms or similar-sized Noturus, with lots of hides) - can work if the tank is roomy and you give multiple caves so they do not bicker over the same spot.
- Small, calm sunfish only if you pick the gentlest ones (banded sunfish is the usual safe bet) - works best in a larger tank with heavy cover. Keep an eye out at feeding time so the madtom is not outcompeted.
Avoid
- Big predatory fish (largemouth bass, big green sunfish, big rock bass) - if it can fit a madtom in its mouth, it will eventually try. Even if it does not eat it, it will stress it out constantly.
- Nippy/aggressive fish (most cichlids, or any fish that likes to pick at bottom dwellers) - the madtom is peaceful and shy, so it loses that matchup and stays pinned in hiding.
- Crayfish - they will grab anything that wedges into a crevice at night, and madtoms love crevices. I have seen too many catfish end up missing fins or worse with crayfish in the mix.
- Tiny bite-sized tank mates (micro fish, very small juveniles, or shrimp) - madtoms are chill, but they are still little predators after lights-out and will vacuum up whatever fits in their mouth.
Where they come from
Black River madtoms (Noturus maydeni) are a little slice of the Black River system in Missouri. Think cool, clean, fast-ish water running over rock and gravel, with lots of crevices and leaf packs. They are one of those native catfish that spend most of their life tucked under stuff, coming out to hunt when the lights are low.
This is an advanced species mostly because they do not love warm, stagnant "tropical community" conditions. If you can keep water cool, clean, and oxygen-rich, you are most of the way there.
Setting up their tank
Build the tank around hiding spots and current. If you set it up like a typical planted tropical tank with fine sand and slow flow, you will see them less and you will fight water quality more.
- Tank size: I would not bother with less than a 20 long for one, and 30-40 gallons is way nicer if you want a small group.
- Substrate: smooth gravel, small rounded cobble, or a sand-and-gravel mix. Skip sharp rock.
- Hardscape: flat stones stacked with gaps, rounded river rocks, and a couple chunks of driftwood. Make lots of "unders" and tight slots.
- Hides: small caves, rock piles, and even short sections of PVC work great if you tuck them out of sight.
- Flow and oxygen: a strong filter plus a powerhead or river-manifold style flow. They really respond well to moving water.
- Temperature: cool to mid-range. Aim roughly mid 60s to low 70s F if you can.
- Lighting: dim or broken up with floaters or hardscape shadows. Bright light just makes them clamp down and disappear.
Give them more hides than fish. If you keep 2-4 madtoms, you want 6-10 good "prime" spots so they are not forced to argue over the same rock.
Water quality has to be boringly stable. They are not fans of ammonia/nitrite at all, and they get stressed in dirty, low-oxygen water fast. I used to do smaller water changes more often rather than giant sporadic ones, just to keep things steady.
Cover every gap. Madtoms can wedge into surprising places, and they will explore at night. A tight lid and intake prefilters save headaches.
What to feed them
These are night-shift hunters. If you toss food in at noon and walk away, your other fish will eat it and the madtom will go hungry. Feed after lights out, or at least at dusk, and target the food to their hide entrances.
- Staples: sinking carnivore pellets (small catfish pellets), micro sticks, and quality sinking wafers with high protein.
- Best frozen foods: bloodworms, blackworms, mysis, chopped krill, brine shrimp (as a treat), and chopped earthworm.
- Live foods (great conditioning): blackworms, small nightcrawlers cut to size, scuds, and insect larvae if you culture them.
- Avoid: big messy feedings that rot under rocks. If you cannot see where it landed, you cannot tell if it got eaten.
Use feeding tongs or a turkey baster to place food right at the entrance of their favorite hide. They learn the routine and you waste way less food.
They have small mouths compared to their "catfish" vibe, so size the food down. I do better with several small pieces than one big chunk that gets ignored and turns into an ammonia factory.
How they behave and who they get along with
Most of the time they are secretive and pretty chill. You will see them most at night: cruising the bottom, nosing around rock edges, then darting back under cover. They are not a "centerpiece" fish unless you enjoy flashlight viewing, which I do.
- With their own kind: can work in a roomy tank with lots of hides. Expect some shoving over favorite spots.
- Tankmates that usually work: cool-water minnows and shiners, dace, small suckers, darters that are not hyper-territorial, and other peaceful natives that like flow.
- Tankmates to avoid: aggressive/territorial bottom fish that claim caves, big predators that can swallow them, and fast piggy eaters that vacuum all sinking food before it lands.
They can and will eat very small fish or tiny shrimp if it fits. If you are attached to your nano tankmates, do not gamble.
One more thing people miss: madtoms have pectoral spines. They are not out to get you, but if you net them carelessly you can snag the net and stress the fish (and you). I move them with a small container whenever possible instead of a net.
Breeding tips
Breeding Noturus in home tanks is possible, but it is not the quick "drop in a pair" kind of project. If you are serious, think seasonal cues: cooler period, then a gradual warm-up with heavier feeding and lots of secure nesting cavities.
- Group vs pair: a small group gives you better odds than trying to sex a pair (sexing is not always obvious).
- Nests: tight caves, rock crevices, or small diameter PVC with one main entrance. They like a snug roof.
- Conditioning: lots of live/frozen foods, especially worms.
- Seasonal cue idea: a cool winter period (still well-oxygenated), then a slow temperature rise and big water changes to mimic spring.
- If you get eggs: keep flow and oxygen high. Males in many madtom species guard nests, so do not rush to pull the eggs unless you have a reason.
If you ever try breeding, keep notes. Temps, photoperiod, feeding, water change schedule. With fish like this, your notebook becomes your best tool.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen come down to three things: warm water, low oxygen, and food rotting under hardscape. Fix those and they are surprisingly hardy for a small catfish.
- Not eating: usually feeding at the wrong time, too much bright light, or tankmates outcompeting them. Try feeding after dark and target feed.
- Hidden waste pockets: rock piles trap mulm. During maintenance, use a baster to blast crud out and siphon it.
- Oxygen stress: hanging in the open, gulping near surface, rapid breathing. Increase surface agitation and flow immediately.
- Fin damage/scrapes: sharp rocks and tight jagged crevices do it. Use smooth river stone and check your caves for rough edges.
- Ich and other parasites: stress-related, often after a temp swing or a new fish introduction. Quarantine new arrivals and keep temps stable.
- Handling injuries: spine snags from nets. Use a cup/container for moves.
Do not let the tank "summer cook" if your fish room gets hot. A few days of high temps plus low oxygen can wipe out sensitive cool-water natives faster than you would expect.
If you are keeping them, you are already the kind of hobbyist who enjoys the weird, hidden fish. Give them current, clean water, and a bunch of rockwork, and they will settle in and start showing those little nighttime patrol behaviors that make madtoms so fun.
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