Half-banded kuhli loach

1) Where they come from

Half-banded kuhli loaches (Pangio semicincta) come from Southeast Asia—slow, leafy streams and swampy areas where the bottom is basically a mix of sand, mulm, roots, and decomposing leaves. Think dim light, lots of hiding spots, and a soft “messy” substrate. That vibe is exactly what makes them relax in an aquarium.

2) Setting up their tank

If you want to actually see these guys (instead of owning invisible noodles), build the tank around security. Soft substrate, clutter, and calm tankmates matter more than chasing a fancy number on a test kit.

• Tank size: 20 gallons long is a comfy starting point for a group; smaller can work, but you’ll see them less.
• Group size: 6+ is where they really start acting natural. More is better if your tank can handle it.
• Substrate: sand is the big one. They poke and “dive” into it. Sharp gravel will scrape them up over time.
• Hides: piles of driftwood, rock caves, coconut huts, and especially leaf litter (catappa/oak) scattered around.
• Plants: anything that breaks line-of-sight—crypts, java fern, anubias, floating plants to dim the light.
• Filtration: gentle-to-moderate flow. Sponge prefilter on the intake so nobody gets sucked in.
• Water: they’re pretty flexible as long as it’s clean and stable. I’ve had best results around 24–27°C (75–81°F), neutral-ish pH, and not super hard.

3) What to feed them

They’re not algae eaters and they’re not “cleanup crew” that can live on scraps. They’re micro-predators and scavengers—think worms, insect larvae, and small meaty bits. If you only feed flakes up top, they’ll slowly lose weight while your midwater fish look great.

• Staples: sinking micro pellets, small sinking wafers, and quality bottom-feeder pellets.
• Frozen foods: bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, mysis (chop larger stuff if needed).
• Live treats: blackworms and grindal worms if you can get them—these bring them out fast.
• Timing: feed after lights-out or at dusk. That’s when they’re boldest.
• Routine: smaller portions more often beats one huge dump of food.

4) Behavior and tankmates

Half-banded kuhlis are peaceful, goofy, and mostly nocturnal—until they feel safe. In a well-set-up tank, you’ll catch them doing little group wiggles, threading through plants, and occasionally piling together under a leaf like it’s the best couch ever.

• Good tankmates: small rasboras, peaceful tetras, danios (if not too hyper), honey gourami, small rainbowfish, peaceful dwarf cichlids, and most shrimp (adult shrimp usually fine).
• Other bottom friends: otocinclus, small corydoras (on sand), and peaceful snails are usually fine.
• Avoid: big or aggressive cichlids, anything that loves to hunt the bottom, and fin-nippers that stress the whole tank.
• Shrimp note: tiny baby shrimp can disappear—kuhlis will snack if they find them.

5) Breeding tips (realistic expectations)

Breeding Pangio in home tanks happens… but it’s not like breeding guppies where you wake up to babies. Most hobbyists who get fry didn’t plan it—they just had a mature group, lots of cover, heavy feeding, and stable water for months.

• Start with a larger group so you’ve actually got both sexes.
• Feed them up with meaty foods for a few weeks (frozen/live helps).
• Keep the tank dim with dense plants and leaf litter—spawning happens where they feel hidden.
• Look for eggs stuck in plant roots/moss or scattered in the leaf litter; adults may eat them.
• If you find eggs, move them (or the adults) to give them a chance; gentle air stone and clean water helps.

6) Common problems to watch for

Most kuhli issues come from the same few things: rough substrate, stress from being kept in pairs, or getting outcompeted at feeding time. They’re also scaleless-ish, so they can react badly to heavy meds.

• Skin damage/barbel wear: usually from sharp gravel or dirty substrate. Switch to sand and vacuum gently (don’t deep-stir the whole bed at once).
• Starving slowly: belly looks pinched, fish stays hidden constantly. Fix by feeding sinking foods at night and adding more cover so they feel safe eating.
• Ich and other parasites: kuhlis show it fast under stress. Treat promptly, but go lighter on meds and watch them closely.
• Getting stuck/sucked in: filter intakes, tight decor gaps, and sponge-less overflows can trap them.
• Jumping/escaping: tiny lid gaps, cable cutouts, or uncovered corners are enough.