Striped Krib / Nigerian Red Krib

1) Where they come from

Striped kribs (Pelvicachromis taeniatus) come from West Africa—think Nigeria/Cameroon area—living in slow, plant-choked streams and creeks with lots of roots and leaf litter. That “messy” bottom is basically their comfort zone, and it explains why they love caves and boundaries.

2) Setting up their tank

These are dwarf cichlids with big opinions. Give them a tank that lets them claim a spot and still lets everyone else get around them. For a pair, I’d start at 20 gallons long as a comfy minimum; 29+ is even easier to manage if you want tankmates.

• Footprint matters more than height—long tanks beat tall ones.
• Fine sand is my favorite substrate. They sift and dig, and sand keeps their mouths/gills happier than sharp gravel.
• Hardscape = territories. Use wood, rocks, and plants to break up lines of sight so aggression doesn’t stay “on” all day.
• Caves: give options. Coconut halves, small clay pots on their side, or rock caves all work.

Water-wise, they’re fairly forgiving compared to some West African fish, but they do best in clean, stable water. I’ve kept them in the mid-70s°F (around 24–26°C). Neutral-ish water is usually fine; if your tap is liquid rock, they can still live, but breeding can get a little pickier.

3) What to feed them

They’re easy eaters once settled, but they color up and breed way more reliably with variety. Mine always looked best on a mix of quality pellets plus frozen foods.

• Daily staple: a small sinking cichlid pellet or good community pellet (they like to pick off the bottom).
• Frozen rotation: bloodworms (not every day), brine shrimp, daphnia, mysis.
• If you’re conditioning for breeding: bump frozen foods for 1–2 weeks, small portions, more often.
• Occasional veggie isn’t a bad idea (spirulina flake, blanched zucchini), but they’re not primarily herbivores.

4) Behavior and tankmates

Most of the time they’re confident, curious, and fun to watch—lots of posturing, little “dances,” and they’ll rearrange the sand like they pay rent. The mood changes fast if they pair up or decide a corner is theirs.

With tankmates, think calm and fast. You want fish that won’t bully them, but also won’t just sit there and take it if the kribs get spicy. Midwater schooling fish usually work great because they keep out of the cave zone.

• Good matches: larger tetras (depending on your water), Congo tetras (bigger tanks), rainbowfish, peaceful barbs, rasboras, hatchetfish.
• Bottom-dwellers: use caution. Corys can get harassed around spawning time. Bristlenose plecos usually do okay if there’s space and extra caves.
• Avoid: slow long-finned fish (gouramis, fancy guppies) and other cave-spawning cichlids in the same footprint.

5) Breeding tips

Breeding is half the reason people fall for Pelvicachromis. If you give them caves and good food, they often take it from there. The female will usually show stronger color (that belly blush) and do a lot of “look at me” wiggling near the cave.

• Run multiple caves with different entrances. Let them pick their favorite.
• A pair that chose each other is way easier than a forced match. If you can, grow out a small group and let a pair form.
• Slightly warmer water and heavier feeding often flips the switch.
• Once you see them guarding a cave, keep your hands out of the tank unless you have to—maintenance becomes a full-contact sport.

They’re solid parents. You’ll see them shepherd fry around like tiny sheepdogs, and it’s honestly one of the coolest behaviors in the hobby. If you want to raise a lot of fry, a separate grow-out tank helps—community tanks usually turn it into a snack buffet unless the parents are extremely vigilant.

6) Common problems to watch for

• Relentless bullying: usually from too few hiding spots or a pair in a tank that’s too small for tankmates. Add cover, break sightlines, or separate fish.
• “Mysterious” deaths after a big cleaning: they hate swings. Keep temp and parameters steady, and don’t deep-clean all at once.
• Bloat/constipation: often from overfeeding rich foods. Cut back, add some daphnia/roughage, and keep water clean.
• Ich/velvet: shows up after stress (new tankmates, temperature swings). Quarantine new fish if you can—it saves headaches.
• Fin damage: from territory fights. Usually heals fast with clean water and less crowding.

If you set them up with sand, caves, and a layout that gives them a clear home base, they’re a blast—tons of personality without needing a giant tank. Just respect that they’re small cichlids, not “community fish with stripes.”