No established common name

Where they come from

Phenacogrammus urotaenia is an African tetra from the Congo Basin. Think slow, tea-colored streams with leaf litter, roots, and dappled light coming through the canopy. Water there is typically soft and a bit acidic, and that shapes how they like to live in our tanks.

Setting up their tank

Give them swimming room. A 36 in/90 cm long tank (about 40 gallons) is a good starting point for a proper group. They are jumpers, so a tight lid is not optional. They look shy at first, but a decent group settles them down and brings the color out.

• Group size: 8-12+ works best. Lone fish or pairs just sulk.
• Temperature: 75-80 F (24-27 C)
• pH: 5.5-7.0 (they color up better on the lower side)
• Hardness: very soft to moderately soft (GH 1-6, TDS 50-150 ppm)
• Flow: gentle to moderate, not a river blast
• Light: subdued. Floating plants help a lot.

Aquascape with dark sand, driftwood, and botanicals like catappa leaves or pods. I like a big clump of hardy plants (Anubias, Bolbitis, Java fern) plus floating plants for shade. A canister or oversized sponge combo works well. Use a prefilter sponge so tiny foods do not vanish into the intake.

If your tap is hard, mix in RO or distilled and remineralize lightly. Tannins are your friend here; they take the edge off bright light and seem to calm the fish. Drip acclimate new arrivals and keep the tank quiet for the first week.

What to feed them

They are active midwater feeders that love small invertebrates. Variety makes a visible difference in color and finnage.

• Frozen: daphnia, cyclops, mysis, baby brine shrimp. Bloodworms are fine, just not every day.
• Live if you can swing it: blackworms (rinsed well), grindal worms, mosquito larvae.
• Dry: high-quality micro pellets and fine granules. I soak them for 30 seconds so they sink slowly.

How they behave and who they get along with

Peaceful, schooling, and a little skittish under bright light. Males posture and flash at each other in a good-natured way if you keep enough of them. They sit mid to upper water and appreciate cover to retreat into.

• Good tankmates: other peaceful African tetras, smaller Synodontis species, Corydoras, Pelvicachromis/Nanochromis, hatchetfish, pencilfish, and calm rasboras.
• Fish to avoid: fin nippers (tiger barbs, serpae tetras), boisterous danios, large cichlids, and anything that treats flowing fins as a snack.

Breeding tips

Doable, but not plug-and-play. They scatter eggs among fine-leaved plants, and the eggs do not like bright light. A separate breeding setup helps a lot.

• Condition a pair or a small group with live and frozen foods for 1-2 weeks.
• Breeding tank: 15-20 gallons, very soft water (TDS 30-80 ppm), pH 5.5-6.0, 77-79 F (25-26 C), dim lighting.
• Use a mesh/marble layer or dense plants/mops so eggs drop out of reach.
• Introduce fish in the evening. Spawning often happens at first light.
• Remove adults right after you spot eggs.

Keep the tank dark after spawning. Eggs develop over the next few days and fry will be free swimming shortly after. Start them on infusoria or green water, then move to microworms and newly hatched brine shrimp once they can take it. Small, frequent water changes with pre-warmed, very soft water keep them growing.

Common problems to watch for

• Shipping stress and ich: they come in rough sometimes. Heat, oxygen, salt dips if needed, and gentle handling help. Be cautious with copper meds.
• Fin fraying on males: usually water quality or tankmates nipping. Step up water changes and check the social mix.
• Bloat from rich foods: rotate offerings and do not lean too hard on bloodworms.
• Color washout and skittish behavior: light too bright or water too hard. Add floaters, botanicals, and soften the water.
• Jumping and spooking: keep the lid tight, avoid sudden room lights-on, and give them shaded retreats.
• Fungused eggs: common if the breeding tank is too bright or the water is not clean enough. Methylene blue at low dose and darkness help.

My steady routine: weekly 30-40% water changes with soft, slightly acidic water, clean mechanical filter media before it clogs, and refresh botanicals every few weeks. Keep feeding varied, keep the light mellow, and keep them in a proper group. Do that, and this species shows you why Congo tetras are so addictive.