
Eurasian Minnow (Common Minnow)
Phoxinus phoxinus

Eurasian Minnows have a slender body, showing a light silver hue with dark spots along the back and a distinctive dark stripe running laterally.
This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?
About the Eurasian Minnow (Common Minnow)
Phoxinus phoxinus is a small, fast-swimming minnow associated with cool, well-oxygenated waters. It is a gregarious shoaling fish; males intensify in colour during breeding. Note: the name P. phoxinus has historically been applied broadly across Eurasia, but the group is now treated as a species complex in which true P. phoxinus may be restricted to parts of Western Europe.
Quick Facts
Size
4 inches
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Beginner
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
3-11 years
Origin
Europe and northern Eurasia (taxonomy complex; some sources restrict P. phoxinus to Western Europe)
Diet
Omnivore/insectivore - quality small pellets/flakes, frozen/live foods (daphnia, bloodworms), occasional plant matter
Water Parameters
4-22°C
5-8.5
10-22 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 4-22°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Keep Eurasian Minnows in a long, well-oxygenated tank (20+ gallons for a group) with good flow, smooth gravel/sand, rounded stones, and dense planting or driftwood for cover; they do best in a "stream" style setup with open swimming space.
- Maintain cool, clean freshwater: target 10-18°C (50-64°F), stable pH ~6.5-8.0, and low ammonia/nitrite with nitrate ideally <20 ppm; use strong filtration, an airstone/powerhead, and regular water changes because they are sensitive to poor oxygenation and waste buildup.
- Avoid warm community conditions-prolonged temps above ~20-22°C (68-72°F) can stress them and shorten lifespan; if your room runs warm, consider a cooler location or aquarium chiller/fan and ensure surface agitation.
- They are schooling fish and should be kept in groups of at least 8-12; in small numbers they become skittish and may nip, while in a proper shoal they display tighter schooling and more natural behavior.
- Feed a varied diet 1-2 times daily: high-quality small pellets/flakes plus frozen/live foods like daphnia, cyclops, brine shrimp, bloodworms, and mosquito larvae; offer some vegetable matter (e.g., spirulina flakes) and avoid overfeeding in cool water where metabolism is slower.
- Choose tank mates that like cool, fast, well-oxygenated water and won't prey on them-other temperate stream fish (e.g., small loaches, sticklebacks where legal, or peaceful coldwater species) work better than tropical fish; avoid large predatory fish and fin-nippers.
- Breeding is possible with seasonal cues: condition adults on rich foods, then provide a slight temperature rise after a cool period and a spawning area of fine gravel/pebbles or spawning mops; adults scatter adhesive eggs and should be removed if you want to maximize fry survival.
- Watch for stress-related issues in warm/low-oxygen tanks (gasping at the surface), external parasites like ich, and bacterial fin damage after shipping; quarantine new fish, keep flow/oxygen high, and prioritize stable, cool water to prevent most problems.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other cool-water, peaceful schooling fish (e.g., White Cloud Mountain Minnows, smaller danios kept in cooler setups)
- Peaceful bottom-dwellers that tolerate cooler water (e.g., hillstream loaches, weather/dojo loaches in appropriately sized tanks)
- Small, calm cyprinids from temperate setups (e.g., other minnows and small barbs that are not fin-nippers and prefer similar temperatures)
- Cool-water shrimp where predation risk is low (e.g., larger Amano shrimp; provide dense plants and rockwork for cover)
- Hardy snails (e.g., nerite snails, ramshorn/mystery snails) in freshwater community tanks
Avoid
- Predatory fish that can swallow small minnows (e.g., pike cichlids, larger catfish, perch-like predators, big gourami)
- Warm-water tropical species requiring sustained higher temperatures (e.g., discus, most rams, many tetras that prefer 25-28°C)
- Aggressive/territorial fish that harass schooling minnows (e.g., many African cichlids, larger Central American cichlids)
Habitat and Natural Environment
The Eurasian Minnow (Phoxinus phoxinus), often called the Common Minnow, is a small cyprinid native across much of Europe and parts of northern Asia. It naturally inhabits cool, well-oxygenated freshwater—typically headwaters, streams, small rivers, and the margins of clear lakes—often over gravel, pebble, and sand substrates.
In the wild it is commonly found in areas with steady flow and high dissolved oxygen, using submerged vegetation, roots, and stones for cover. Seasonal temperature swings are normal in its native range; the species is adapted to cooler conditions compared with most tropical aquarium fish.
This is a temperate, cool-water species. Long-term warm tropical temperatures typically shorten lifespan and increase stress-related disease risk.
Tank Setup Requirements
Tank Size and Grouping
Eurasian Minnows are active schooling fish that do best in groups. A larger footprint matters more than height because they spend most of their time cruising midwater and along current seams.
- Recommended group: 8–12+ individuals (larger shoals show more natural behavior and better coloration)
- Minimum practical tank: ~75 L / 20 gal long for a small group; 110+ L / 30+ gal long is preferable
- Cover: a tight-fitting lid is recommended; they can startle and jump, especially in high-flow tanks
Water Parameters and Filtration
Aim for cool, clean, oxygen-rich water with moderate to strong filtration. Stability and oxygenation are more important than chasing an exact pH number.
- Temperature: ~10–18°C (50–64°F) typical; short seasonal variation is tolerated if changes are gradual
- pH: ~6.5–8.0 (neutral to slightly alkaline is commonly fine)
- Hardness: soft to moderately hard is acceptable
- Flow/oxygen: moderate flow with strong surface agitation; use a quality filter and consider a powerhead or air stone
- Maintenance: frequent partial water changes to keep nitrate low; minnows respond poorly to chronically degraded water quality
Avoid sustained temperatures above ~20°C (68°F) unless you can maintain very high oxygenation; warm water holds less oxygen and can lead to chronic stress.
Aquascape and Decor
Replicate a stream-like environment with open swimming space and broken lines of sight. A mix of smooth gravel/pebbles, rounded stones, driftwood, and hardy plants provides cover without restricting movement.
- Substrate: sand to fine gravel; add rounded pebbles/cobbles for a natural look
- Hardscape: river stones, wood, and root-like structures to create eddies and resting zones
- Plants: cool-tolerant species (e.g., hornwort, waterweed/Elodea, Vallisneria in cooler setups) or mosses attached to stones/wood
- Lighting: moderate; provide shaded areas with plants/wood to reduce skittishness
A “river tank” layout—strong filtration, directional flow, and a mix of current and calm pockets—brings out the most natural schooling and foraging behavior.
Feeding and Diet
Eurasian Minnows are omnivorous micro-predators that feed on small aquatic invertebrates, insect larvae, zooplankton, and plant matter/detritus. In captivity they thrive on a varied diet with a strong emphasis on small, protein-rich foods.
- Staples: high-quality small pellets or micro granules; quality flakes can work but are less ideal as a sole diet
- Frozen/live: daphnia, cyclops, artemia (adult or baby depending on fish size), bloodworms (as an occasional treat), chopped blackworms
- Occasional plant matter: spirulina-based foods or finely blanched vegetables in small amounts
- Feeding frequency: 1–2 small feedings daily; remove excess to protect water quality
Because they come from cool, high-oxygen habitats, overfeeding plus warm temperatures can rapidly degrade water quality and oxygen levels—keep portions modest.
Behavior and Temperament
Common Minnows are peaceful, lively schoolers that spend much of the day actively cruising in midwater. In proper groups they are confident and display subtle social interactions; in small numbers they can become shy and prone to stress.
- Temperament: generally peaceful; may compete for food vigorously but rarely causes damage
- Social needs: must be kept in a shoal; larger groups reduce fin nipping and skittishness
- Activity level: high; appreciates current and ample swimming room
- Compatibility: best with other cool-water, non-aggressive species that tolerate similar flow and temperature
Avoid mixing with warm-water tropical fish (temperature mismatch) or very slow, long-finned species (can be stressed by fast feeding and constant activity).
Breeding (if applicable)
Eurasian Minnows are egg scatterers and can be bred in captivity, but success is more likely in a dedicated setup that mimics seasonal cues. In nature, spawning is often triggered by rising temperatures and longer day length in spring, with fish depositing adhesive eggs over gravel, plants, or spawning mops.
Breeding Setup and Conditioning
- Condition adults with abundant live/frozen foods (daphnia, artemia, etc.)
- Provide a separate breeding tank with clean, cool water and strong aeration
- Use fine-leaved plants, spawning mops, or a bed of clean gravel/pebbles to receive eggs
- Introduce a gentle seasonal change: gradually increase temperature and photoperiod to simulate spring
Egg and Fry Care
- After spawning, remove adults or move eggs to prevent predation (adults may eat eggs and fry)
- Keep water pristine and well-oxygenated; mild antifungal measures may be needed in some setups
- First foods: infusoria, rotifers, or commercial fry foods; then graduate to baby brine shrimp and microworms as fry grow
- Provide gentle filtration (sponge filter) to protect fry
Spawning is often easier when fish experience a cool “winter” period followed by a gradual warm-up; abrupt temperature jumps can cause stress instead of triggering reproduction.
Health and Common Issues
When kept cool with high oxygen and excellent water quality, Eurasian Minnows are generally hardy. Most problems in captivity come from chronic warmth, insufficient oxygenation, crowding, and poor quarantine practices.
- Low oxygen stress: rapid gill movement, hanging near the surface/outflow; improve aeration, reduce temperature, and check stocking/flow
- Heat stress: lethargy, poor appetite, increased disease incidence; move to cooler conditions and ensure strong surface agitation
- External parasites/Ich: flashing, white spots; quarantine new fish, treat appropriately, and avoid temperature-based “treatments” that require warming beyond safe ranges
- Fin damage: usually from cramped conditions or too-small groups causing social stress; increase shoal size and tank length
- Water quality issues: sensitivity to ammonia/nitrite; ensure cycled filtration and maintain regular water changes
Never place new wild-caught or unquarantined minnows directly into an established tank. Quarantine and observe for parasites and bacterial issues before introduction.
Similar Species
Other freshwater peaceful species you might be interested in.

Ajuricaba tetra
Jupiaba ajuricaba
Jupiaba ajuricaba is a South American freshwater characin from the Amazon basin in Brazil (rio Negro, rio Solimões, and rio Tapajós basins). It reaches about 9.5 cm SL and is diagnosed by a narrow dark midlateral stripe, an elongated humeral spot, and an ocellated spot on the upper caudal-fin lobe. Wild specimens have been collected from blackwater forest streams and also oxbow-lake habitats.

Amapa tetra
Hyphessobrycon amapaensis
This is a tiny, super sleek little tetra with a clean red stripe down the side that really pops once its settled in. It does best in a planted, slightly tinted "creek-style" setup and looks way cooler when you keep a proper group so they school and flash that line together. If you can give it soft, slightly acidic water and a calm community, its an easy fish to fall for.

Anteridorsal Homatula loach
Homatula anteridorsalis
This is a benthic Chinese stream loach from Yunnan that lives right down on the bottom in clear, flowing water over gravel and rocks. Think of it as a "river tank" fish - it wants current, oxygen, and lots of surfaces to poke around on for bits of food and algae.

Armoured stickleback
Indostomus paradoxus
This is that goofy little "freshwater seahorse"-looking fish that just kind of perches and scoots around like a tiny armored twig. Its whole vibe is slow, sneaky micropredator - once its settled in, you will catch it stalking microfoods and doing these subtle little posture displays. The big trick is feeding: they do best when you can provide lots of small live foods in a calm, planted tank.

Arnegard's electric fish
Petrocephalus arnegardi
This is a little Congo River elephantfish (a weakly electric mormyrid) that cruises the lower parts of the tank and navigates the world with its electric sense. It stays small (around 9 cm) and has a clean silvery look with three dark marks that make it pretty easy to pick out among Petrocephalus.

Aroa twig catfish
Farlowella martini
Farlowella martini is one of those unreal-looking stick catfish that just vanishes the moment it parks itself on a branch. It is a super calm, slow-moving grazer that does best in a mature tank with lots of biofilm, gentle flow, and clean, oxygen-rich water - they are not great at competing at feeding time, so you kind of have to look out for them.
More to Explore
Discover more freshwater species.

American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.

Amur sculpin
Alpinocottus szanaga
This is a little coldwater sculpin from the Amur drainage - a bottom-hugging, rock-and-gravel fish that spends its day wedged under stones and darting out to grab food. Super cool behavior and attitude, but it is absolutely not a warm tropical community fish - it wants chilly, fast, oxygen-rich water and will bicker with other bottom fish.

Anitápolis livebearer
Jenynsia weitzmani
Jenynsia weitzmani is a freshwater anablepid livebearer endemic to southern Brazil (currently known only from the type locality near Anitápolis, Santa Catarina). Like other Jenynsia (onesided livebearers), reproduction involves lateralized mating morphology/behavior; aquarium care guidance is not well-documented for this species specifically.

Aracu-comum
Schizodon vittatus
Schizodon vittatus is a large South American anostomid (family Anostomidae). Reported maximum size is about 35 cm standard length; it is harvested/consumed in parts of Brazil and is not commonly covered by mainstream aquarium husbandry references.

Arraya's bluntnose knifefish
Brachyhypopomus arrayae
This is a weakly-electric South American knifefish that cruises around plants and root mats and does most of its business after lights-out. It is a pretty subtle-looking fish (more earthy browns than flashy colors), but the cool part is the whole electric-sense lifestyle and that smooth, hovering knifefish swim.

Arrowhead puffer
Pao suvattii
Pao suvattii is that sneaky Mekong puffer that likes to sit low and ambush food, and it has that super recognizable arrow/V pattern on its back. Gorgeous fish with tons of personality, but it is absolutely not a community guy - plan on a solo, species-only setup if you want everybody to stay in one piece.
Looking for other species?
