
X-ray tetra
Pristella maxillaris
Also known as: Pristella tetra, Golden x-ray tetra
This is that little see-through tetra where you can kinda make out the spine inside the body, and then it tops it off with those sharp black/yellow/white fin markings and a reddish tail. Super chill schooling fish, and it's one of those rare tetras that doesn't freak out if your water isn't "perfect Amazon blackwater" 24/7.

X-ray tetras exhibit transparent bodies with a distinctive silver sheen, showcasing prominent lateral lines and a faintly visible skeletal structure.
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Quick Facts
Size
4.5 cm (1.8 inches) TL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Beginner
Min Tank Size
15 gallons
Lifespan
3-5 years
Origin
South America (Amazon, Orinoco, and coastal drainages of the Guianas)
Diet
Micropredator/omnivore - quality flakes/micro pellets plus frozen/live foods (daphnia, brine shrimp, small worms, insect larvae)
Water Parameters
22-28°C
6-8
2-20 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Keep X-ray tetras in a group (at least 6; 8+ is better). They can be prone to occasional fin-nipping when kept in too small a group or cramped conditions; provide open swimming space and cover.
- They're pretty forgiving, but they look best and stress less around 74-80°F (23-27°C), pH ~6.5-7.5, and not-crazy hard water; steady water beats chasing numbers.
- Use a dark substrate and toss in plants (real or fake) plus some floating cover-under bright lights and bare tanks they wash out and hide more.
- Feed small stuff they can grab mid-water: flakes, micro pellets, frozen daphnia/brine shrimp; give tiny meals once or twice a day so it doesn't all rot into the gravel.
- They're peaceful with other calm community fish (corys, rasboras, guppies, small gouramis), but skip fin-nippers and big mouthy fish that see them as snacks.
- If you see them chasing and nipping, it's usually a too-small group or too-tight tank; bump the school size and add sight breaks with plants.
- Breeding is doable: they scatter eggs at dawn in plants/mops, and the adults will eat the eggs-move the pair/spawn group out after spawning or use a breeding tank with a mesh/plant barrier.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other chill schooling fish (neon/ember/glowlight tetras, rasboras) - X-ray tetras are super easygoing and look best when everybody's in a calm midwater crowd.
- Corydoras catfish - perfect vibe match, they mind their own business on the bottom and don't bother the tetras at all.
- Small peaceful plecos like bristlenose (Ancistrus) - solid cleanup crew, not interested in chasing fish, just give them wood/hides.
- Otocinclus - great with them if the tank is mature (they're delicate at first), and they won't spook or harass the school.
- Honey gourami (or other gentle gouramis) - usually fine as long as the gourami isn't a cranky individual and the tank isn't cramped.
- Dwarf cichlids like apistogramma or rams - works in a roomy, planted setup; the tetras stay out of their way and it's a classic community combo.
Avoid
- Fin-nippers like tiger barbs (and sometimes serpae tetras if they're under-schooled) - X-ray tetras aren't built for that drama and you'll end up with shredded fins and stressed fish.
- Big, pushy semi-aggressive stuff (most larger cichlids, green terrors, convicts, etc.) - they'll treat X-rays like chew toys or snacks once they size up.
- Bettas/slow fancy-finned fish - not because X-rays are mean, but the mix can get weird: bettas can be territorial and the tetras' constant movement can bug them.
Where they come from
X-ray tetras (Pristella maxillaris) come from northern South America—think the Amazon/Orinoco region and nearby coastal rivers. A lot of what we buy are tank-bred these days, which is great because they’re usually pretty adaptable and forgiving in typical community-tank water.
They’re called “X-ray” because their body is so transparent you can kind of see what’s going on inside. Under good lighting they look like little glass fish with a neon sign on the fins.
Setting up their tank
These are easygoing schooling fish, but they look and act way better when you give them some room and some cover. I like them in a 20 gallon long or bigger, especially if you want a proper group instead of a sad little trio.
- Group size: 8–12 is the sweet spot. They calm down, color up, and spread any bossiness around.
- Tank size: 15–20 gallons minimum for a decent school; bigger if you’re building a full community.
- Filtration: gentle to moderate flow. A sponge filter works great, or a HOB with a prefilter sponge on the intake.
- Decor: plants (real or fake), driftwood, and some open swimming lane through the middle.
- Lighting: medium is fine. With plants and a darker substrate, they really pop.
Water-wise, they’re not fussy. If your tank is stable, they’ll roll with a pretty wide range. I’ve kept them in slightly soft to moderately hard water without drama. Temperature in the mid-70s°F (around 24–26°C) keeps them active and hungry.
If they seem skittish, add more plants and bump the group size up before you start chasing numbers with test kits. A bigger school fixes a lot of “shy tetra” behavior.
What to feed them
X-ray tetras aren’t picky eaters. They’re classic “tiny vacuum cleaners,” and they’ll take most community foods right away. The only trick is making sure everyone gets a bite, because they can be sneaky fast at mealtime.
- Daily staple: a good quality micro pellet or small flake
- Boosters: frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, or bloodworms (small portions)
- Live foods (if you do them): baby brine shrimp or daphnia are like candy
- For color and condition: rotate foods instead of feeding the same thing every day
Feed smaller amounts twice a day rather than one big dump. You’ll see less leftover food on the bottom and fewer random ammonia surprises.
Behavior and tankmates
They’re peaceful, busy little swimmers. In a good-sized group they’ll cruise the mid-water, spar a bit (nothing serious), and show off those yellow/black fin markings. If you keep too few, they can get nippy out of boredom or stress—usually at each other, sometimes at slow-finned neighbors.
- Great tankmates: corydoras, small rasboras, other peaceful tetras, otocinclus, snails, shrimp (adult shrimp usually fine)
- Also works: dwarf gourami/honey gourami (watch for individual temperament), small peaceful plecos
- I’d avoid: long-finned show fish (fancy guppies, bettas) if you notice fin curiosity, and anything big enough to see them as snacks
Fin-nipping is usually a “not enough friends / not enough space / too bright and bare” problem. Fix the setup first; don’t just blame the fish.
Breeding tips (if you want to try it)
They’ll breed in home tanks, but you usually won’t get many surviving fry in a community because the adults will snack on eggs and babies. If you actually want to raise them, a simple little breeding setup makes it way easier.
- Use a small separate tank (5–10 gallons) with a sponge filter
- Add a spawning mop or dense fine plants (java moss works)
- Dim the light and keep the bottom bare so you can clean easily
- Condition the adults for a week with frozen/live foods
- Move a pair or small group in the evening; spawning often happens early next day
- Pull the adults after you see eggs, or use a mesh/marbles so eggs drop out of reach
- First foods for fry: infusoria/liquid fry food, then baby brine shrimp as they grow
If you’re not trying to breed, you can still enjoy their little “chasing and flashing” behavior—just keep them well-fed and planted and you’ll occasionally see courtship without dealing with baby fish.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I’ve seen with X-ray tetras come down to stress from a small group, a bare tank, or a new setup that’s still swinging around. They’re hardy, but they’re still tetras—dirty water and sudden changes catch up with them.
- Skittish hiding and washed-out color: usually too few in the school, bright/bare tank, or lots of booming footsteps/kids/pets right in front of the glass
- Fin nips or ragged fins: small group, crowding, or pairing them with slow long-finned fish
- Ich after adding new fish: common tetra problem—quarantine new arrivals if you can
- Mouth fungus/columnaris-looking fuzz: often tied to stress + warm water + poor water quality; treat quickly and improve water conditions
- Sudden losses in a new tank: check for ammonia/nitrite spikes and slow down feeding
If you see clamped fins, rapid breathing, or fish hanging at the surface, test for ammonia/nitrite right away. Don’t guess—those two are the “silent killers” in fresh setups.
If you give them a stable, cycled tank and a real school, X-ray tetras are one of those fish that just quietly succeed. They’re cheap, tough, and they add a ton of movement without bullying the rest of your community.
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