Howes' prodontocharax

Where they come from

Prodontocharax howesi is one of those oddball African characins that shows up rarely and usually with very little collection info. Most of the ones I have seen (and the few I have kept) were listed from the Congo basin region. Think big, warm rivers with current, lots of dissolved organics, and a constant supply of small fish and insects drifting by.

They are not a "pretty community tetra" type fish. They are built like a predator and they act like one.

Setting up their tank

Give them space and stable water. I would not bother under a 4-foot tank for adults, and a 5-6 footer is even better if you want them to settle down and stop pacing. They use midwater, but they like having a few defined lanes to cruise.

• Tank size: 75g/280L minimum for a small group, 125g/475L feels more realistic long-term
• Filtration: big biological capacity plus strong turnover (they are messy eaters)
• Flow: moderate to strong; aim for "river fish" movement without blasting them into a corner
• Cover: tight lid - they can jump when startled
• Lighting: subdued; floating plants help if your setup allows it

Decor wise, I have had the best results with a sandy bottom, a few chunks of driftwood or rooty branches, and rock piles kept to the sides so the center stays open. Plants are optional. If you use them, pick tough stuff and keep it out of the main cruising area.

Water numbers are less about chasing a specific pH and more about consistency and cleanliness. Mine did fine in slightly acidic to near neutral water, warm temps, and low-to-moderate hardness. What they did not forgive was "old" water and rising nitrate.

• Temperature: mid to upper 70s F (24-27 C)
• pH: roughly 6.0-7.5 works if stable
• Hardness: soft to moderately hard is fine
• Maintenance: big weekly water changes; siphon out leftovers because they shred food

What to feed them

They are carnivores and they know it. Expect a strong feeding response, lots of lunging, and food getting torn apart. If you have only ever kept peaceful tetras, the first feeding can be a surprise.

• Staples: quality sinking carnivore pellets and sticks (they will learn fast)
• Frozen: prawns/shrimp, fish flesh, krill, mussel, bloodworms (for smaller fish), chopped earthworms
• Occasional: live insects or worms if you can source them safely

Feed smaller portions more often at first. A lot of imported specimens act like they are starving, then bloat themselves if you let them. Once they are settled, I like one solid meal per day, with a lighter day once a week.

How they behave and who they get along with

Plan on predatory behavior. Anything that fits in their mouth is food, and they will test the boundaries with "maybe it fits" attempts too. They are also quick, so even medium fish can get harassed if the tank is tight.

In my experience they do best either as a single specimen in a big tank or in a group where you can spread aggression out. A pair in a small tank tends to turn into one fish eventually.

• Good tankmates: big, tough fish that do not look like prey (large Synodontis, big Congo cichlids, robust barbs, larger African characins)
• Avoid: small tetras, livebearers, dwarf cichlids, slow long-finned fish, anything shy or delicate
• Group size: 3-6 can work in a roomy tank with lots of open water and strong filtration

Breeding tips

Real talk: breeding Prodontocharax howesi in a home aquarium is not something you will see often. They are uncommon in the hobby, sexes are not obvious, and most imports are mature predators that are hard to condition into spawning behavior.

If you want to take a swing at it anyway, I would treat them like a big, riverine characin. Heavy conditioning on meaty foods, very clean water, and a seasonal trigger tends to be the best starting point.

• Conditioning: 2-4 weeks of high-protein foods plus frequent water changes
• Trigger idea: slightly cooler water changes for a week, then warm, large changes with increased flow
• Spawning setup: lots of fine-leaved plants or spawning mops (or a mesh egg guard) because adults will eat eggs
• Raise fry: expect tiny live foods early (rotifers/microworms) then move to baby brine

Common problems to watch for

Most trouble I have had with them traces back to three things: rough imports, overeating, and water getting dirty because they are sloppy feeders.

• Refusing food after arrival: usually stress - dim lights, add cover, keep nitrates low, offer frozen foods at dusk
• Bloat/constipation: from overfeeding rich foods - smaller meals, add a fasting day, use more pellet-based meals
• Fin damage and mouth injuries: from aggression or smashing into decor - keep the center open and avoid sharp rockwork
• Parasites from wild imports: watch for stringy poop, weight loss, flashing - quarantine and treat based on symptoms
• Sudden death after "fine" behavior: often oxygen/filtration related - strong surface agitation and consistent maintenance help a lot

If you keep up with water changes, give them room to cruise, and feed like you are managing a predator (not a schooling tetra), they are actually pretty straightforward. The hard part is building the whole tank around them.