Piscora
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Stream catfish

Pseudobagarius macronemus

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Stream catfish exhibit an elongated body with a mottled brown and white pattern, alongside long barbels and a distinctive, flattened head.

Freshwater

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About the Stream catfish

This is a tiny little akysid stream catfish from eastern Sumatra that spends its time down low, poking around the bottom (benthopelagic). The weird part with this one is the name - a lot of sources treat it as Pseudobagarius macronema, and you will see it sold or listed under either spelling.

Also known as

Pseudobagarius macronemaAkysis macronemaAkysis macronemus

Quick Facts

Size

5.0 cm SL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Advanced

Min Tank Size

10 gallons

Lifespan

3-6 years

Origin

Southeast Asia (Indonesia - Sumatra)

Diet

Carnivore/invertivore - small frozen/live foods (worms, insect larvae) and sinking micro-pellets

Water Parameters

Temperature

22-26°C

pH

6-7.5

Hardness

1-10 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a river tank: big footprint, heavy flow, lots of oxygen, and a pile of rounded rocks, slate, and tight caves - they want to wedge themselves in and watch the current.
  • Keep it cool-ish and clean: think mid 70s F (low-to-mid 20s C), neutral to slightly acidic, and low nitrate; they go downhill fast in warm, stale, low-oxygen water.
  • Run a powerhead or river manifold and aim the flow along the bottom; if you see them parked right at the filter outlet gasping, your flow/oxygen is still not enough.
  • Feed after lights-out: sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, chopped shrimp, mussel, and earthworms; skip feeder fish and go easy on fatty foods so they do not bloat.
  • Tankmates need to be current-loving and too big to swallow (danios, barbs, loaches, hillstream-type fish); avoid slow long-finned fish and anything small enough to become a midnight snack.
  • They can be spicy with other bottom cats, especially in cramped tanks - if you want more than one, you need multiple caves and line-of-sight breaks or you will see fin nips and cave wars.
  • Watch for skinny-belly syndrome and sunken heads: it usually means they are not getting food (or are full of worms); deworm new fish and make sure food actually reaches the bottom in the flow.
  • Breeding in home tanks is rare, but if you try, mimic monsoon season: big cool water changes, heavy flow, and lots of cave options; eggs are likely guarded in a crevice if it happens.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Small to medium schooling midwater fish that mind their own business - rasboras (harlequin, scissortail) and most danios are solid. They stay out of the catfish's face and handle the current well.
  • Peaceful barbs that are not fin-nippy - think cherry barbs or odessa barbs in a proper group. Active, but usually not jerks if they have space.
  • Other calm river-style fish - hillstream loaches and similar algae grazers. They like the same oxygen-rich, flowy setup and mostly ignore each other.
  • Chill bottom buddies that are not pushy - smaller Corydoras species can work if the tank has enough floor space and you feed in multiple spots so nobody gets shorted.
  • Medium peaceful gouramis that are not delicate - honey gourami or thick-lipped gourami can be fine in calmer zones of the tank, as long as the catfish has caves and the gourami is not a slow, long-finned show type.
  • Sensible community cichlids that stay mild - keyhole cichlids are one of the few I'd try, and only if the tank is roomy and the catfish has plenty of hideouts.

Avoid

  • Anything big, aggressive, or predatory - larger cichlids, snakeheads, big catfish, etc. Stream catfish are peaceful and get bullied or straight-up eaten.
  • Fin-nippers and hyper bullies - tiger barbs, some serpae-type tetras, and similar crew. Even if they cannot eat the catfish, they will stress the whole tank and make feeding time miserable.
  • Slow fish with fancy fins - bettas, fancy guppies, long-fin gouramis/angels. Not because the stream catfish is mean, but because the flow and competition for food usually beats up the slow pretty fish.
  • Tiny bite-sized fish or shrimp you want to keep safe - really small nano fish or baby shrimp can disappear at night once the catfish is settled in and hunting.

Where they come from

Stream catfish (Pseudobagarius macronemus) come out of fast, rocky rivers in South and Southeast Asia. Think clear water, lots of oxygen, strong current, and endless cracks between stones. If you set the tank up like a lazy pond, they just never look "right" - they sulk, breathe fast, and act stressed.

Setting up their tank

This is one of those fish where the tank setup matters more than fancy food. You are basically building a slice of river: flow, oxygen, and rockwork first. Everything else is secondary.

  • Tank size: I would not keep one long-term in less than a 4 ft tank. Bigger footprint beats height every time.
  • Flow and oxygen: strong circulation plus airstone or venturi. If you can see the surface really moving, you are getting close.
  • Filtration: over-filter. They like clean water and they eat meaty foods, which means waste.
  • Hardscape: smooth river stones, rounded cobble, and lots of tight caves. I stack rocks so there are several "personal" crevices.
  • Substrate: sand or fine gravel. Skip sharp stuff - they wedge themselves into gaps.
  • Lighting: keep it on the dim side or use floating plants. They are much bolder with shaded areas.
  • Temperature: mid-70s F works well (around 24-26 C). Stability matters more than chasing a number.

Do not set them up in a brand new tank. They are touchy about ammonia/nitrite, and they do not handle big swings well. Mature filter media and steady parameters make a huge difference.

I also like to arrange the rocks so I can still get a siphon in there. They are messy eaters, and little pockets behind stones can turn into a crud trap if you cannot reach them.

What to feed them

They are carnivores and they eat like a predator that is used to food washing past in current. If you only toss in a couple pellets and walk away, the faster fish will steal everything and the catfish will slowly get skinny.

  • Staples: sinking carnivore pellets, good quality wafers with a high protein base
  • Frozen foods: bloodworms, blackworms, mysis, krill, chopped prawn/shrimp, chopped mussel
  • Occasional: earthworms (rinsed), small pieces of fish flesh (not oily, and not often)

Feed after lights out or at least at dusk, and target feed with tongs or a turkey baster. Once they learn the routine, they come right out and you can make sure each fish gets its share.

Go easy on very rich foods at first. In a warm tank with heavy feeding and big flow, things can still go south fast if leftover meaty bits get trapped in the rocks.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are a mix of shy and bold: shy in a bare tank, bold in a tank that has current and lots of cover. Mine spent the day wedged under rocks with just the head sticking out, then turned into little ambush hunters once the room lights went down.

They can be territorial, especially with their own kind or other bottom fish that want the same cave. You will see posturing and shoving over prime crevices.

  • Good tankmates: fast-water barbs and danios, hillstream loaches that have their own niches, larger rasboras, other midwater fish that do not poke into caves
  • Use caution: other bagrid catfish, botia loaches, any cave-hogging species
  • Avoid: tiny fish that can fit in their mouth, slow fancy fish, long-finned fish that get nipped, anything that needs calm water

If you want to keep more than one, give them more caves than you think you need, and break line-of-sight with rock piles. A single "best" cave in the tank is a recipe for drama.

Breeding tips

Breeding them in a home aquarium is not common. Most of what shows up in the hobby is wild-caught, and these fish tend to want seasonal cues and very specific spawning sites (deep crevices, heavy flow, and cooler-water changes).

If you want to take a swing at it, your best bet is to run them like a river biotope and mimic a rainy season: heavy feeding for a few weeks, then a series of cooler water changes with stronger flow. Provide narrow rock cracks and pipe caves where a pair could tuck in and defend a clutch.

If you do get eggs or fry, expect the adults to guard a site and expect tankmates to be a problem. A species tank (or at least a partitioned area) is basically mandatory if you get serious about breeding.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with this species trace back to three things: not enough oxygen/flow, a tank that is too "new," or injuries from squeezing into the wrong rocks.

  • Fast breathing or hanging in high-flow areas: usually oxygen is low or the water is dirty
  • Not eating and hiding nonstop: too bright, not enough cover, or being outcompeted at feeding time
  • Scrapes on head/barbels: sharp decor, rough rock edges, or getting pinned in tight gaps
  • Bloat/constipation: too much rich food, not enough variety, or a fish that is eating big chunks too often
  • Ich/velvet after purchase: common on wild fish stressed by shipping and warm, low-oxygen holding tanks

Watch for "silent" overheating and low oxygen in summer. Warm water holds less oxygen, and these river fish are the first to tell you something is off. Add aeration before you see them gasping.

Quarantine helps a lot with wild-caught specimens. I keep the QT tank dim, add extra aeration, and offer small meals until they settle. Once they are eating confidently and not breathing hard, they are usually much tougher than people give them credit for.

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