Piscora
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Freshwater angelfish

Pterophyllum scalare

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The Freshwater angelfish features a flattened body, elongated fins, and distinctive vertical black stripes against a silver background.

Freshwater

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About the Freshwater angelfish

Pterophyllum scalare is that classic tall, triangle-shaped cichlid that just glides around like it owns the midwater. Give it some vertical space, plants/wood to weave through, and it'll reward you with tons of personality-especially once a pair forms and starts guarding a spawn site.

Also known as

AngelfishAmazon angelfishSilver angelfish

Quick Facts

Size

15 cm (6 inches)

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

30 gallons

Lifespan

8-10 years

Origin

South America (Amazon Basin)

Diet

Omnivore - quality flakes/pellets plus frozen/live foods (e.g., bloodworms, brine shrimp)

Water Parameters

Temperature

24-30°C

pH

6-7.5

Hardness

3-10 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a tall tank, not just a long one-plan ~29-30 gallons minimum for a single adult or bonded pair, and 55 gallons+ for a small group to reduce territorial stress and provide turning room.
  • Keep water warm and steady (around 78-82°F) and don't let ammonia/nitrite exist at all; they get cranky fast in dirty water, so regular water changes matter more than chasing fancy numbers.
  • They'll live in a range of pH/hardness, but they act their best in slightly acidic to neutral water (roughly pH 6.5-7.5); stability beats trying to "fix" pH with chemicals.
  • Feed like a predator: quality pellets/flakes as the base, plus frozen foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis) a few times a week-small meals 1-2x/day so you're not fouling the tank.
  • Avoid fin-nippers (most tiger barbs) and tiny tankmates (neon tetras can become snacks once the angels size up); good matches are medium tetras, corydoras, and calm dwarf cichlids if the tank's roomy.
  • Angels get territorial as they mature-if you buy a group of juveniles, expect a pair to form and start claiming a corner; be ready to reshuffle decor or move fish if someone gets bullied.
  • Breeding is easy once they pair: they'll lay eggs on a vertical surface (broad leaf, filter intake, slate), and the parents will guard hard-community tanks often end with the eggs disappearing overnight.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Corydoras catfish (most common cories) - they stick to the bottom, stay busy, and angels usually ignore them. Great cleanup crew that doesn't start drama.
  • Bristlenose pleco (Ancistrus) - often works, but monitor at night and during spawning; some plecos may rasp slime coats or disturb egg clutches, so provide hiding places and separate if problems occur.
  • Medium, non-nippy schooling fish like rummynose tetras or black skirt tetras - big enough that adult angels don't usually see them as snacks, and they keep to themselves if they've got a proper group.
  • Dwarf cichlids like bolivian rams - same warm water vibe, generally chill, and they hold their own without constantly picking at the angels. Watch things if anyone starts breeding.
  • Rainbowfish (e.g., Boesemani) - only in larger tanks and when water-parameter overlap is appropriate; avoid mixes where rainbowfish prefer harder/more alkaline water than the angelfish.
  • Peaceful bigger gouramis (pearl gourami is a classic) - usually calm enough to share space with angels, as long as you're not cramming the tank and everyone has room to chill.

Avoid

  • Fin nippers like tiger barbs (and often serpae tetras) - they'll treat angelfish fins like a snack bar, especially if the group is small or the tank is tight.
  • Tiny fish like neon tetras (especially with adult angels) - a lot of angels eventually decide they're food, even if they behaved at first.
  • Aggressive/territorial cichlids like convicts, jack dempseys, or most mbuna - angels aren't built for that kind of brawling and will get stressed or shredded.
  • Slow, fancy-finned stuff like guppies/longfin mollies or bettas - angels love to 'test' those fins, and it turns into a ragged-fin situation pretty quick.

1) Where they come from

Freshwater angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) come from the Amazon basin—slow, warm waters with tangled roots, leaf litter, and plants. That tall, flat body isn’t just for looks; it’s made for slipping through vertical stems and branches.

Most angels you see in shops are tank-bred, but they still act like little Amazon cichlids—territorial when they feel like it, and very aware of “their” space.

2) Setting up their tank

Give them height. A tall tank looks like a “nice-to-have,” but it makes a real difference once they’re adult and those fins get long. They also appreciate calm water—blasting them with flow tends to stress them out over time.

  • Tank size: I’d start with 30 gallons for a small group of juveniles, but 40+ makes life easier (and reduces drama). For a pair, 29–40 works well depending on tank shape.
  • Tank shape: taller is better than long-and-shallow. Think “display tank,” not “river raceway.”
  • Temp: 78–82°F (25.5–28°C). Cooler water can work short-term, but they color up and eat better warm.
  • pH/hardness: they’re flexible if you keep it stable. Mine have done fine around neutral with moderate hardness.
  • Filtration: steady, not raging. Sponge filters are great for pairs/breeding tanks; canisters/HOBs are fine if you baffle the output.

Decor-wise, you’ll get the best behavior if you break up line-of-sight. Driftwood, tall plants (real or fake), and a few “walls” of hardscape give shy fish somewhere to tuck in and give a bullied fish an exit route.

If you want plants, think vertical: Amazon swords, val, crypts, or tall stems. Angels love to hover between leaves like they own the place.

Avoid nippy tankmates and sharp decor. Long fins + fin-nippers = shredded angels. Rough rock edges can also tear fins when they spook and dart.

3) What to feed them

Angels are easy to feed, but they do best with variety. A good staple pellet/flakes plus frozen foods will keep them growing evenly and looking sharp.

  • Staple: quality cichlid/angelfish pellets (small enough to swallow without chewing forever).
  • Frozen: bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis—rotate them instead of picking one and repeating it forever.
  • Occasional: live foods if you have a clean source (great for conditioning breeders).
  • Veggie matter: not their main thing, but a bit of spirulina-based food won’t hurt and helps some fish keep weight.

Feed smaller amounts more often if you can. Two small feedings beats one big dump-and-run, especially in warmer water where they burn calories fast.

Go easy on freeze-dried foods unless you pre-soak them. I’ve seen angels gulp dry chunks and end up bloated and miserable.

4) Behavior and tankmates

They’re cichlids with good manners… until they’re not. Most of the time they’re calm, curious, and kind of “pet-like.” But once a pair forms, they can flip into bouncer mode and start policing the whole tank.

  • Good tankmates: larger tetras (like rummynose, bleeding heart), peaceful rainbowfish, Corydoras, bristlenose plecos, many peaceful loaches.
  • Use caution: gouramis (sometimes fine, sometimes a staring contest), dwarf cichlids (territory overlap), slow fancy fish that get bullied.
  • Avoid: fin-nippers (serpae tetras, many barbs), aggressive cichlids, and tiny fish that fit in an adult angel’s mouth.

That last point catches people off guard. Your angels may ignore small fish for months… and then one day they decide a neon tetra is a snack. If it can fit, assume it’s on the menu eventually.

If you want a community tank, start with a small group of young angels and let them grow up with the other fish. Adding angels last (as bigger juveniles/adults) tends to cause more chasing.

5) Breeding tips (if you want to go down that rabbit hole)

Angels are one of those fish that make you feel like a proud grandparent the first time you see them cleaning a leaf together. They lay eggs on vertical surfaces—broad plant leaves, driftwood, the filter intake… whatever looks right to them.

  • Best way to get a pair: buy 5–8 juveniles and let them pair off naturally.
  • Give them a spawning surface: a tall leaf, slate tile, or a spawning cone works great.
  • Conditioning: warm water + heavy feeding (quality foods, frozen/live) = more consistent spawns.
  • If you want to raise fry: a separate tank makes it way less stressful than trying to do it in a busy community.

First-time parents often eat the eggs or fry. Don’t panic. It usually takes a few tries before they “get it,” especially in a tank with lots of activity.

If fungus is wiping out eggs, check water cleanliness and flow. Gentle aeration near the eggs helps, and some breeders use a tiny amount of methylene blue in a separate hatch setup.

6) Common problems to watch for

Angels are pretty hardy once settled, but they’re not forgiving of filthy water or constant stress. Most “mystery issues” I’ve dealt with came down to bullying, temperature swings, or long-term nitrate creep.

  • Fin damage: usually from nipping or rough decor. Fix the tankmates/scape first, then the fins usually grow back.
  • Ich and other parasites: angels show it clearly (white spots, flashing, clamped fins). Warmer temps speed up parasite life cycles, so treat promptly and follow through.
  • Hole-in-the-head/erosion (less common, but real): often linked to long-term water issues and diet variety. Clean water and better food usually help a lot.
  • Bloat/constipation: often from overfeeding rich foods or dry foods. Fast for a day, then offer lighter foods (like brine shrimp) and adjust feeding habits.
  • Sudden aggression: often a pair formed. Expect them to claim a corner and start evicting neighbors.

Watch for one angel getting pinned in a corner with torn fins or hiding and not eating. One bully (or a breeding pair) can slowly wreck a fish without you noticing until it’s in rough shape.

If you’re seeing ongoing tension, adding tall plants/hardscape dividers can help more than you’d think. Worst case, be ready to rehome the oddball or move the pair—angels don’t always negotiate.

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