Sumatra barb (Tiger barb)

Where they come from

Tiger barbs (Sumatra barbs) come from Southeast Asia—think Borneo and Sumatra—where they’re found in warm, plant-y, tannin-stained streams and slow rivers. That “tea-colored” water vibe is pretty common in their natural spots, with lots of roots, leaf litter, and cover.

You don’t have to recreate a jungle creek perfectly, but knowing they’re built for busy, cluttered water helps explain why they love cover and why they act like little orange-and-black missiles all day.

Setting up their tank

Give them room to school and zoom. A 20-gallon long can work for a small group, but you’ll have a much easier time (and calmer fish) in a 30–40 gallon. They’re active and they use the whole tank.

• Tank size: 20 long minimum for a group; 30–40 gal is the “this is easy now” zone
• Group size: 8–12 is where the nipping usually drops off a cliff
• Filter: any decent filter is fine, but they appreciate some flow and high oxygen
• Heater: yes—steady warm water keeps them less cranky
• Décor: plants (real or fake), driftwood, and rock piles to break up sightlines
• Open swimming lane: leave the front/middle open so they can cruise

Water parameters aren’t something to stress over with these guys. Aim for stable: mid-70s to low-80s °F (24–28°C), neutral-ish pH, and clean water. They handle a range, but they don’t handle dirty water and big swings.

What to feed them

Tiger barbs eat like they’re getting paid by the bite. They’re not picky, but you’ll get better color and less “hangry” behavior if you feed a mix instead of only flakes.

• Staple: quality flake or small pellets
• Frozen: bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia (great for keeping them in condition)
• Live (optional): baby brine shrimp, grindal worms, mosquito larvae where legal/safe
• Veggie bits: spirulina flakes, blanched zucchini/peas, or algae-based foods now and then

Behavior and tankmates

They’re classic “busy” fish: lots of chasing, pecking order stuff, and nonstop movement. In a proper group, most of that energy stays inside the school. In a too-small group, they start shopping for fins to nip.

• Good tankmates: other quick, confident fish (danios, rasboras, many tetras), hardy barbs, rainbowfish
• Bottom buddies: corydoras, loaches, bristlenose pleco (generally ignored)
• Avoid: bettas, angelfish, guppies, fancy gouramis, long-finned anything, slow “zen” fish

Breeding tips (if you want to try it)

Breeding tiger barbs is doable at home, and it’s pretty fun because they’re enthusiastic spawners. The trick is keeping the adults from eating the eggs—because they absolutely will.

• Use a separate breeding tank (10–20 gal) with a sponge filter
• Add marbles, a spawning grid, or a thick layer of java moss so eggs fall out of reach
• Condition adults with frozen/live foods for a week or two
• Put a pair or small group in the breeding tank; spawning often happens in the morning
• Remove adults right after you see spawning/egg scatter
• Eggs hatch in about 1–2 days; start fry on infusoria/liquid fry food, then baby brine shrimp

Common problems to watch for

Most tiger barb issues are really “setup” issues: too few barbs, too small a tank, or tankmates that can’t handle their energy. Fix those and they’re pretty forgiving beginner fish.

• Fin nipping: almost always from small groups or mixed with slow/long-finned fish
• Stress/faded color: bare tank, no cover, or being kept in a tiny group
• Ich/white spot: common after new fish or temperature swings—quarantine helps a ton
• Bloat/constipation: from overfeeding rich foods; add fiber (daphnia/veg) and cut back
• Ammonia/nitrite spikes: they’re messy eaters—stay on top of maintenance and don’t overstock