South Caucasian gudgeon
Romanogobio macropterus
The South Caucasian gudgeon features a slender body, pale brown coloration with dark mottling, and large, prominent pectoral fins.
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About the South Caucasian gudgeon
A neat little river gudgeon from the Kura-Aras drainages, it hangs out right on the bottom and spends the day nosing through sand and gravel for tiny critters. Keep it cool and well-oxygenated with some current and you will see a lot of busy, natural foraging. It is subtle-looking but super active and fun to watch in a small group.
Quick Facts
Size
8.5 cm SL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
3-5 years
Origin
Western Asia - Caucasus
Diet
Invertivore - small insect larvae and other benthic invertebrates; accepts sinking pellets and frozen foods
Water Parameters
12-22°C
6.8-8.1
5-20 dGH
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This species needs 12-22°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Set up a river-style tank: 30-40 gal long (90+ cm) for a small group, tight lid, fine sand with rounded pebbles and open runs between rocks.
- Give them serious flow and oxygen - think 8-10x tank volume per hour with powerheads or a river manifold and extra aeration, and keep detritus off the sand.
- Keep it cool and clean: 12-20 C (tolerates 10-22), pH 7.0-8.0, GH 6-15 dGH, and do 40-60% weekly water changes; heat above 24 C stresses them fast.
- Feed like they are bottom insect pickers: small sinking carnivore pellets plus live/frozen foods (blackworms, daphnia, chopped bloodworms) in 2-3 small meals so nothing rots in the current.
- They relax in a group - run 5+ - and pair them with fast, coolwater fish that like flow (shiners, dace, hillstream loaches, small barbs); skip cichlids, big predators, and tropical warmwater species.
- Use fine sand only; sharp gravel trashes their barbels, and suspended silt irritates gills, so run strong mechanical filtration and vacuum often.
- Breeding is seasonal: cool them to ~10-12 C in winter, then raise to 16-18 C with strong flow over pea gravel; they scatter eggs, so pull adults after spawning and start fry on infusoria then baby brine shrimp.
- Wild-caught fish often bring worms, so quarantine 4 weeks and deworm if needed, and keep a fan or chiller ready for summer heat spikes.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Cool water schoolers like white cloud mountain minnows that enjoy current
- Zippy danios in a long, flowing tank - zebra or pearl danios are spot on
- Hillstream loaches that share the flow and leave the sand alone (Sewellia, Gastromyzon)
- Rainbow shiners as active midwater dither fish in cooler, high-oxygen water
- Peaceful algae-grazing garra like panda garra, not the bruiser types
- Small, calm river minnows and dace that are not nippy and can handle current
Avoid
- Big or predatory fish that snack on bottom dwellers - cichlids, large barbs, anything with a big mouth
- Nippy bullies like tiger barbs that harass calmer fish
- Warm, still-water fish like bettas, gouramis, angels - wrong flow and temp
- Boisterous bottom thrashers like weather loaches that outcompete and spook them
Where they come from
South Caucasian gudgeons live in the Kura and Aras river systems across the South Caucasus and nearby regions. Think clear, cool rivers with steady current, gravelly riffles, and quieter runs between them. They spend their time right on the bottom, sifting sand and pebbles for tiny snacks.
If you picture a shallow riffle over rounded stones with a good push of water, you are on the right track for this fish.
Setting up their tank
Give them a long tank and good flow. A 30 to 36 inch tank works for a small group, but more length is always nicer. They appreciate clean, oxygen-rich water and a bottom they can rummage through without tearing up their barbels.
- Substrate: fine sand or very small rounded gravel. Add smooth river stones and cobbles.
- Flow and oxygen: strong filtration and powerheads. Aim for 8-12x turnover with plenty of surface agitation.
- Water: 14-22 C, pH 6.8-8.0, moderate hardness. Keep nitrates low with weekly water changes.
- Aquascape: build a couple of rock piles to break line of sight and create resting eddies. Leave open runs for cruising.
- Plants: optional. If you want greenery, use hardy, attached plants like Anubias or Java fern on rocks so they do not uproot.
A simple river-manifold setup with a powerhead pushing water through undergravel pipes keeps detritus moving and the fish active. Sponge prefilters on intakes stop sand from chewing up impellers.
Heat is the enemy. Above about 24 C they get stressed and gulp at the surface. In warm months, use a fan across the surface or a chiller if your room runs hot.
What to feed them
In the wild they pick at insect larvae, worms, tiny crustaceans, and whatever micro-life they sift from the substrate. In a tank, they switch to prepared foods if you keep it small and sinking.
- Staples: high-quality sinking micro-pellets, crushed wafers, and small soft pellets.
- Frozen and live: bloodworms, blackworms, daphnia, cyclops, chopped earthworms. Rotate for variety.
- Extras: Repashy-style gel foods pressed into pebbles so they can rasp naturally.
Feed small portions 2-3 times a day and let the current spread it. A flat pebble feeding spot helps you see what gets eaten. I like one light fasting day each week to keep the bottom clean.
How they behave and who they get along with
They are peaceful bottom fish with short bursts of energy in the flow. In a group of 6 or more, they are confident and spend more time out in the open. Males may posture a bit, but it is mostly harmless if the tank has space and cover.
- Good tankmates: white cloud mountain minnows, small dace or minnows that like cool water and current, hillstream loaches, small stone loaches, other non-nippy river cyprinids.
- Avoid: large or aggressive fish, warmwater tropicals, and super-fast midwater fish that hoover up every crumb before food sinks.
Breeding tips
They are seasonal spawners that scatter eggs over gravel in spring. It is doable at home if you can give them a cool period and then a gentle warm-up with extra flow.
- Condition a group with heavy live and frozen foods for a few weeks.
- Winter rest: hold them at 10-12 C for 4-6 weeks with short photoperiod.
- Spring cue: raise to 16-18 C, extend day length, and boost current.
- Use a bed of mixed pea gravel over a mesh so eggs can drop out of reach.
- If they spawn, remove adults. Eggs usually hatch in 3-6 days depending on temperature.
- Start fry on paramecium or rotifers, then microworms and newly hatched brine shrimp.
Sexing is subtle. Females carry a fuller belly when ready. Males may show slightly longer pectorals and develop tiny breeding tubercles on the head in season.
Common problems to watch for
- Heat and low oxygen: panting at the surface, flashing in the flow. Add air, drop temperature, and increase surface agitation.
- Barbel damage: sharp gravel or rough rocks scrape them up and invite infection. Stick to smooth substrates and keep the bottom clean.
- Dead spots: if mulm settles in quiet corners, you will see lethargy and fin issues. Reposition flow or add a small powerhead.
- Wild-caught hitchhikers: flukes and worms are common. Quarantine new fish for 4 weeks and treat if needed.
- Food competition: midwater fish can out-speed them. Target feed with tongs or use a feeding tile so the gudgeons get their share.
Power outage at night can crash oxygen fast in a high-flow river tank. A battery-backed air pump is cheap insurance.
Consistent, cool, and clean beats fancy. Big water changes, strong flow, and smooth gravel will keep South Caucasian gudgeons happy for years.
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