Piscora
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Clouded archerfish

Toxotes blythii

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The Clouded archerfish exhibits a distinctive body shape with a silvery-gray hue and prominent, dark vertical bars along its flanks.

Freshwater

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About the Clouded archerfish

This is the freshwater archerfish that does the whole "shoot water at bugs" thing, and it is ridiculously fun to watch once they settle in. They are surface-oriented, quick, and kind of predatory in that "if it fits, it might get eaten" way, so you plan tankmates around their mouth size. Give them clean, well-oxygenated water and a tight lid, and they act like little hunters all day.

Also known as

Zebra archerfishBurmese clouded archerfishFreshwater archerfishGolden freshwater archerfish

Quick Facts

Size

15 cm

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

55 gallons

Lifespan

7-10 years

Origin

Southeast Asia

Diet

Carnivore/insectivore - floating pellets, insects, frozen foods (they like food at the surface)

Water Parameters

Temperature

24-28°C

pH

6.5-8

Hardness

6-20 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 24-28°C in a 55 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a long tank with a tight lid and a good 6-10 inches of air space above the water - they like to sit just under the surface and will jump when spooked.
  • They get bigger than people expect (aim for 5-6 inches), so think 55+ gallons for a small group and more if you want them to act natural instead of nervous and snappy.
  • Freshwater works fine, but keep it stable: mid-70s F (24-27 C), pH around 6.8-7.5, and keep nitrate low because they sulk fast when the water gets dirty.
  • Feed like a predator, not a community fish: floating insects (crickets, flies), small shrimp, and quality floating pellets; they learn pellets, but live or frozen gets their hunting behavior going.
  • They are surface hogs and can be bullies at feeding time, so use feeding tongs or spread food along the surface so the smaller fish are not starving.
  • Tankmates: fast, sturdy midwater fish that will not fit in their mouth (big barbs, larger rainbows) usually work; avoid slow long-finned stuff and anything small enough to become lunch.
  • Decor: leave open surface lanes for hunting, use wood/branches/plants that break line of sight, and do not blast them with flow right at the surface - they like to aim.
  • Watch for mouth and snout injuries from hitting lids or glass during spooks, and treat new fish for parasites since wild-caught ones often come in skinny and wormy.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Bigger, fast schooling dither fish like tinfoil barbs - they are quick enough to avoid the archer's attitude and they keep the top/middle busy so the archerfish is less focused on bullying one tank mate
  • Silver dollars (the common Metynnis types) - tough, speedy, not easily intimidated, and they can handle the same general vibe as a semi-rowdy freshwater archer setup
  • Robust midwater fish like larger rainbowfish (Boesemani, turquoise, etc.) - they are active and hold their own, just do a proper group so one doesn't get singled out
  • Medium-to-large, non-nippy bottom crews like Synodontis catfish - they mostly mind their own business, are armored enough, and they won't compete with the archerfish at the surface
  • Bigger loaches like clown loaches - busy, sturdy bottom fish that can take some chaos (give them hides and a group so they're not stressed)
  • Large plecos (common pleco, sailfin pleco) - generally ignored by archers and they are not going to get spooked by surface commotion (watch the bioload, these guys are poop machines)

Avoid

  • Small fish that fit in a mouth - guppies, endlers, small tetras, danios, white clouds. If it looks like a snack, it becomes a snack, especially once the archer learns the feeding routine
  • Slow, fancy-finned fish - bettas, longfin gouramis, angelfish, fancy goldfish. The archerfish are quick and pushy at feeding time and those floaty fins get harassed or outcompeted
  • Nippy or aggressive brawlers - tiger barbs, many cichlids (convicts, jewels, etc.). Either they shred fins or they ramp the whole tank into a constant stress-fest

Where they come from

Clouded archerfish (Toxotes blythii) are from Southeast Asia, hanging around slow rivers, floodplains, and forested waters where overhanging branches are basically a buffet line. They are famous for shooting down insects with a jet of water, but this species also spends a lot of time hunting in the water column, not just playing sniper at the surface.

You will sometimes see archers lumped together as "brackish fish." This one gets sold both ways. In my experience, they do perfectly fine long-term in freshwater if you keep the water clean and stable and do not cram them into small tanks.

Store labels can be messy with archers. Double-check the ID (T. blythii) and ask what water it has been kept in. If it has been in brackish for a long time, shift slowly if you want freshwater.

Setting up their tank

Give them length, surface area, and headroom. These fish use the top third of the tank constantly, and they jump hard. A tight lid is non-negotiable. I learned that lesson the dumb way with an archer-shaped gap in my morning roll call.

Tank size depends on how many you want, because they are schooling-ish but also squabble. For a small group, think in "big cichlid tank" terms, not "community tank" terms. A 4 foot tank is a nice starting point for juveniles, but adults really appreciate 5-6 feet if you can swing it.

  • Tank footprint: prioritize long tanks with lots of surface area
  • Lid: tight-fitting, cover filter cutouts, block any gaps
  • Flow: moderate, not a blasting river tank
  • Decor: driftwood branches, tall rooty stuff, and open swimming room
  • Plants: tough or floating plants can work, but leave clear surface lanes

Leave a little open air space under the lid. Archers like to patrol right at the surface, and a cramped surface can make them skittish. Just keep it covered so they cannot launch out.

Water-wise, treat them like sturdy freshwater predators: stable temp in the mid-70s to low-80s F, neutral-ish pH is fine, and low nitrogen waste. They are messy eaters and they are big-bodied, so filtration and water changes matter more than chasing a magic number.

They get stressed in cramped tanks and that is when you see fin nips, constant chasing, and mystery injuries. More space fixes more problems with archers than any additive ever will.

What to feed them

They are carnivores and they are smart. The fun part is watching them learn. The annoying part is watching them train you. If you only ever offer one "treat" food, they will hold out for it like stubborn toddlers.

Mine did best on a varied routine: floating and midwater foods for day-to-day, plus meaty frozen and live foods as regular staples. They will take pellets once they trust the food, but some take a while.

  • Staples: quality floating carnivore pellets or sticks (once they accept them)
  • Frozen: krill, shrimp, silversides, mysis, chopped prawn, bloodworms (not as the only food)
  • Live (optional): crickets, roaches, flies, small insects, earthworms (rinse and offer small pieces)
  • Occasional: small feeder insects raised clean (avoid wild-caught if you can)

If you want to see the shooting behavior, use floating insects or a feeding ring and offer food just above the surface with tongs. Start low. They get the idea fast.

Skip fatty mammal meats and random kitchen scraps. Also be careful with wild insects from pesticide-treated areas. It is not worth the gamble.

Feeding rhythm: juveniles do well with smaller meals once or twice a day. Adults can be fed once a day with a lighter day here and there. Watch their body shape from above - you want them muscular, not round like a coin.

How they behave and who they get along with

Clouded archers are active, alert, and always "on." They watch you, they watch each other, and they patrol. They are not typically glass-bangers, but they are intense fish. A calm community tank is usually the wrong vibe.

They do best in groups, but groups need room. In small quarters, the biggest fish will ride the others nonstop. In a bigger tank with broken sight lines, the pecking order settles down and you mostly see cruising and feeding competitions.

  • Temperament: semi-aggressive, food-competitive
  • Best kept: in a group in a large tank, or as a feature group with robust tankmates
  • They will eat: small fish and shrimp, eventually anything that fits
  • They may harass: timid top-dwellers and slow fish at feeding time

Tankmates that have worked for me and friends: sturdy mid-to-lower dwellers that are not bite-sized and do not get stressed by commotion. Think larger barbs, some bigger rainbowfish, larger gourami types that can handle themselves, and certain catfish that stay out of the surface zone. Avoid long-finned fish and anything that needs gentle feeding conditions.

Do not trust them with "it will be fine" small fish. If a tankmate can fit in an archer's mouth, it is food. Maybe not today, but eventually.

Breeding tips

Breeding Toxotes blythii in home tanks is not common. Most of what you see in shops is wild-caught or farmed in ways that are hard to copy at home. If you are hoping for a breeding project, pick a species with a stronger hobby track record.

That said, archers are seasonal spawners in nature, tied to rains and changing water levels. People who have had spawning behavior usually mention very large tanks, heavy feeding, and big water changes that mimic a rainy season. Even then, raising the young is its own challenge because they are tiny, surface-oriented predators from day one.

If you ever see courtship or spawning attempts, document it. Archerfish breeding reports are still pretty valuable to the hobby.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I have seen with clouded archers trace back to three things: cramped quarters, sloppy water from heavy feeding, and stress from bad tankmate choices.

  • Jumping: they launch fast, especially during feeding or spats
  • Mouth injuries: from ramming the lid or hard decor near the surface
  • Fin damage: chasing and nipping in undersized groups or tanks
  • Ich and other parasites: often on new wild fish, quarantine helps a lot
  • Bloat/constipation: from too many dry foods and not enough variety
  • Nitrite/nitrate problems: heavy feeding plus weak filtration equals chronic stress

Quarantine new archers if you can. Wild fish often come in with parasites, and archers do not love harsh medication surprises once they are in the display tank.

If you see one fish getting pinned in a corner or constantly shaded by a dominant one, do not wait. Rearranging decor sometimes helps, but the real fix is more space, more cover to break lines of sight, or changing the group size. With archers, "they will sort it out" can turn into shredded fins pretty quick.

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