
Honey gourami
Trichogaster chuna

The Honey gourami features a golden-yellow body with iridescent blue highlights and elongated dorsal and anal fins, distinguishing it from other species.
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About the Honey gourami
Honey gouramis are those little chill labyrinth fish that spend a lot of time cruising the upper half of the tank and "feeling" around with their long thread-like belly fins. Give them plants (especially floaters) and calm tankmates and they really settle in-males can glow that warm honey/orange color and will build bubble nests at the surface.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
13.7 cm
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Beginner
Min Tank Size
10 gallons
Lifespan
4-8 years
Origin
South Asia
Diet
Omnivore - small pellets/flake plus frozen/live foods (brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms)
Water Parameters
22-28°C
6-8
5-19 dGH
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This species needs 22-28°C in a 10 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Keep them in a planted tank with some floating plants (frogbit/salvinia) and calm water-honey gouramis hate being blasted around by strong filter flow.
- Aim for warm water: ~75-82°F (24-28°C); they get stressed and way more disease-prone when kept cool. A stable heater beats chasing perfect numbers, but keep ammonia/nitrite at 0 and nitrates low with regular water changes.
- They're timid eaters, so feed small portions once or twice a day and make sure faster fish don't steal everything. Rotate quality micro pellets/flakes with frozen/live treats like brine shrimp, daphnia, or bloodworms.
- Best vibe is one male with one or two females, or a small group in a bigger tank-two males in a small setup will bicker and one gets bullied. If you only want one, a single honey gourami is totally fine.
- Good tankmates are peaceful community fish: small tetras/rasboras, corydoras, kuhli loaches, and shrimp (adults usually ok). Skip fin-nippers (some barbs), hyper fish (danios in tiny tanks), and aggressive gouramis/territorial cichlids.
- Give them lots of sight breaks (plants/wood) so they can dodge each other and feel safe; they color up way more when they're not exposed in the open. A tight lid helps too since they'll gulp air at the surface and can jump.
- If you see clamped fins, hiding, or faded color, check for bullying first-these guys shut down fast when stressed. Also watch for gourami iridovirus symptoms (lethargy, wasting, sores); sadly it's common in some shop batches, so buy from a good source and quarantine if you can.
- Breeding is fun and pretty easy: the male makes a bubble nest under floating plants and gets more yellow/orange. After spawning, pull the female (male guards the nest), then feed the fry infusoria/microworms until they're big enough for baby brine shrimp.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Small, chill schooling tetras (ember tetras, neon/green neons, glowlight). They stick to the middle, don't bother the gourami, and the honey usually just cruises around like nothing's happening.
- Rasboras (harlequin, chili, lambchop). Really good vibe match-calm, not fin-nippy, and they make the gourami feel secure instead of hiding.
- Corydoras catfish. Peaceful little floor crew that won't compete for the same space. Honeys ignore them completely in my experience.
- Kuhli loaches. Same deal-quiet, bottom-focused, and they don't stress a honey gourami out. Great if you've got hiding spots and soft-ish substrate.
- Small peaceful snails/shrimp (nerites, amanos; cherries can work if you've got plants). Honey gourami usually aren't hardcore hunters, but baby shrimp can still be snacks if they blunder into the open.
- Otocinclus (in a proper group once the tank is mature). They're gentle algae grazers and basically invisible to honeys-no drama.
Avoid
- Fin-nippers like tiger barbs and often serpae tetras. Honeys are slow and polite, so they're the ones that get picked on and end up clamped up and hiding.
- Big/boisterous stuff like most cichlids or even super pushy community fish. Anything that charges food or claims territory hard will keep a honey gourami stressed out.
- Other gouramis that are more dominant (blue/three-spot, opaline, gold, etc.). They can bully a honey and hog the surface area-doesn't always explode, but it's a common 'why is my honey hiding' situation.
- Bettas (coin flip). Sometimes it's fine, but if either fish decides the top half of the tank is 'their' zone, you get chasing and constant tension-especially in tighter tanks.
1) Where they come from
Honey gouramis come from slow, plant-choked waters in India and Bangladesh—think warm ponds, ditches, and gentle streams with lots of cover. That background explains pretty much everything about them: they like calm water, they feel safer with plants, and they’re not built for being pushed around by fast swimmers.
They’re labyrinth fish, meaning they can breathe some air from the surface. You’ll see them come up for little gulps—totally normal.
2) Setting up their tank
If you want honey gouramis to show their best color and actually relax, give them a calm, planted tank with gentle filtration. They don’t need anything fancy—just a setup that doesn’t stress them out.
- Tank size: 10 gallons works for a pair or a small group; 20 gallons gives you way more wiggle room with tankmates
- Temperature: mid-to-upper 70s°F (around 24–27°C) is a sweet spot
- Flow: keep it mild; aim the filter output at the glass or use a sponge filter if you can
- Plants/cover: floating plants (frogbit, salvinia) and bushy stems make them feel secure
- Lighting: moderate is fine—floating plants help soften bright lights
Add a few patches of floating plants and some tall stems in the back. Mine spent way more time out in the open once the surface was broken up and they had “lanes” to swim through.
A lid helps, not just for jumping (they usually aren’t jumpy), but because warm, humid air above the water is easier on their labyrinth organ. If your room is chilly and the tank is open-top, they can get cranky over time.
3) What to feed them
Honey gouramis aren’t picky once they settle in, but they’ve got small mouths and they’re kind of polite eaters. In a community tank, fast fish will absolutely steal their food if you don’t plan for it.
- Daily staples: quality micro pellets, crushed flakes, small granules
- Protein boosts (a few times a week): frozen or live brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, baby bloodworms
- “Fussy new fish” trick: offer frozen foods for the first week, then mix in pellets
Feed a little, wait 30 seconds, then feed a little more. That second round is when the honey gouramis usually get their share after the “greedy fish” calm down.
4) Behavior and tankmates
This is one of the few gouramis I call genuinely chill. They cruise, inspect plants, and do their slow, curious thing. Males can bicker, but it’s usually more posturing than damage—unless the tank is small and bare.
- Great tankmates: ember/neon/cardinal tetras (calm groups), rasboras (harlequin/chili), corydoras, kuhli loaches, otocinclus, small peaceful barbs (like cherries), most shrimp (adult shrimp are usually fine)
- Tankmates to avoid: fin-nippers (serpae tetras, many tiger barbs), big/boisterous fish, aggressive gouramis, bettas that are territorial, anything that wants high flow
- Group setup: 1 male with 1–2 females is easy; in bigger tanks you can do a small group with lots of sight breaks
Honey gouramis get mislabeled a lot (especially as “dwarf gourami”). If you wanted honey gouramis to avoid the dwarf gourami disease headache, double-check the species name: Trichogaster chuna.
You’ll know a male is feeling confident when his color warms up and he starts patrolling the surface under floating plants. If your honey gourami stays pale and hides nonstop, it’s almost always too much flow, too much activity in the tank, or not enough cover.
5) Breeding tips (if you want to try it)
They’re bubble nesters, and honestly they’re one of the more approachable “first breeding projects” if you’re curious. The male builds a little bubble nest under floating plants and courts the female with a lot of gentle herding.
- Set the scene: warm water, very gentle flow, floating plants (this is half the battle)
- Condition them: small, protein-rich foods for a week or two
- After spawning: the male usually guards the nest; the female may need to be moved if he gets pushy
- Fry food: infusoria/powder fry food first, then baby brine shrimp as they grow
If the male keeps abandoning the nest, it’s usually surface agitation. Even a small ripple can make them give up and start over.
6) Common problems to watch for
Most “problems” with honey gouramis come from stress rather than the fish being fragile. Keep them calm and clean, and they’re pretty forgiving.
- Hiding and staying pale: too much flow, too bright, too few plants, or aggressive/fast tankmates
- Not eating: new fish stress or food too large—try frozen foods and smaller pellets for a bit
- Fin damage: usually fin-nippers or too many males in a tight space
- Gasping at the surface nonstop: check ammonia/nitrite first, then temperature and oxygen; occasional surface gulps are normal, constant “panic breathing” isn’t
- Ich/velvet after purchase: common in newly shipped fish—quarantine helps a ton
If you see clamped fins, heavy flashing (rubbing), or rapid breathing, don’t guess—test your water right away. Honey gouramis act “shy” when something’s off, and it’s easy to miss until it’s obvious.
Last little thing: take your time acclimating them and keep the first week quiet. Once they settle, they’re the kind of fish you end up staring at because they’re always gently exploring like they own the place.
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