Dwarf gourami

Where they come from (and why that matters)

Dwarf gouramis come from slow, warm waters in India, Bangladesh, and nearby areas—think weedy edges, rice paddies, and calm backwaters. That’s why they love planted tanks, gentle flow, and having little “pockets” to hang out in near the surface.

Setting up their tank

If you want dwarf gouramis to settle in and actually show their best colors and behavior, give them a calm tank with cover. A bare, bright, open tank tends to make them skittish and snappy.

• Tank size: 10 gallons for one male (or a single fish). 20 gallons+ is way easier for a community.
• Temp: 24–28°C / 75–82°F. I keep mine around 78–80°F and they’re active without acting stressed.
• pH/hardness: they’re pretty flexible (roughly pH 6.5–7.5 is a nice middle ground).
• Flow: gentle. Aim the filter output at the glass or use a sponge filter if you can.
• Plants: yes please—floating plants (frogbit/salvinia) and tall stems work great.
• Hiding spots: wood, rock piles, or plant thickets so they can get out of each other’s line of sight.

Keep the water clean and steady. They don’t love swingy tanks. If you’re setting up a new aquarium, give it time to cycle—dwarf gouramis are one of those fish that get punished fast by ammonia/nitrite.

What to feed them

They’re not fussy once they’re comfortable, but they do best with variety. Mine always colored up more and acted less “on edge” when I rotated foods instead of doing flakes forever.

• Staple: good quality micro-pellets or tropical flakes (small enough to fit their mouth).
• Treats that make a difference: frozen baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms (not every day).
• If they’re picky at first: try frozen foods or soak pellets for a minute so they sink slowly.

Behavior and tankmates

Dwarf gouramis have a ton of personality. Most of the time they’re curious little surface cruisers, but males can get territorial—especially in smaller tanks or bright, open setups.

• Good tankmates: small peaceful schooling fish (harlequin rasboras, ember tetras), corydoras, otos, small loaches, peaceful snails.
• Use caution: guppies (sometimes fin-nipping or chasing), other gouramis (especially males), and anything hyper that lives in their face 24/7.
• Avoid: fin-nippers (some barbs), aggressive cichlids, and big fast feeders that will outcompete them.

If you’re keeping a male and female, the male may pester her nonstop unless the tank is roomy and dense with plants. Personally, I find a single male in a peaceful community is the easiest, least stressful setup.

Breeding tips (bubble-nest stuff)

They’re bubble-nest breeders, and it’s fun to watch. The male builds a foamy nest under floating plants, then tries to convince the female to spawn under it.

• Use a separate breeding tank if you actually want fry—community tanks usually turn into an all-you-can-eat buffet.
• Keep the water calm and warm (upper 70s/low 80s °F), with floating plants or a piece of styrofoam cup for the nest.
• Condition both fish with frozen/live foods for a week or two.
• After spawning, remove the female—males guard the nest and can get rough.

Common problems to watch for

Dwarf gouramis are gorgeous, but they can be a little heartbreak-prone compared to hardier community fish. A lot of them come from heavy breeding and shipping stress, so buying a good specimen and quarantining pays off.

• Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus (DGIV): the big one—fish may lose color, waste away, develop sores, or decline for “no obvious reason.” Sadly, there’s no real cure. Your best defense is choosing healthy stock and quarantining.
• Bloat/constipation: often from overfeeding or too much dry food—skip feeding for a day, then offer daphnia and smaller meals.
• Ich/other parasites: stress + warm temps can make outbreaks move fast—quarantine new fish and treat early.
• Fin damage: usually from chasing or nippy tankmates—add cover and rethink the stocking.