
Min County plateau loach
Triplophysa minxianensis
Also known as: Minxian plateau loach, Minxian high-plateau loach, 岷县高原鳅
This is a coldwater, fast-river Triplophysa from Gansu, China - a little bottom loach built for current, with that classic 'stone loach' shape and a life spent hugging the substrate. Its wild range seems pretty localized (Taohe River and upper Weihe), and in the hobby its care gets tricky mostly because it really wants cool, super-oxygenated water and a clean, river-style setup.

The Min County plateau loach has a slender body, mottled brown coloration, and prominent barbels around its mouth, adapted for stream habitats.
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Quick Facts
Size
11.8 cm SL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Advanced
Min Tank Size
30 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
Asia (China - Gansu, Yellow River tributaries)
Diet
Omnivore leaning insectivore - sinking pellets, frozen foods (bloodworms, daphnia), live foods, aufwuchs/biofilm grazing
Water Parameters
14-20°C
6.5-8
3-15 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 14-20°C in a 30 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a long, fast-flow tank with a powerhead and lots of rounded river stones; they want current and oxygen, not a calm planted box.
- Keep the water cool and very clean - think low to mid 60s F (around 18-20 C) most of the time, with strong surface agitation; warm, stale water is where they go downhill.
- They hate swings, so keep nitrates low (try to stay under 20 ppm) and do frequent water changes; these guys show stress fast with clamped fins and hiding.
- Feed like a hillstream loach: sinking meaty stuff (frozen bloodworms, brine, daphnia, chopped earthworm) plus quality wafers, and toss food into the flow so it lands between rocks where they hunt.
- Skip tiny shrimp and slow fancy fish - they will pester or outcompete them; better tankmates are other coldwater, current-loving fish like danios, white clouds, and other Triplophysa-sized loaches.
- Give them tight caves and cracks between stones because they claim spots; keep a group (3-6) if you have space so one fish is not getting bullied nonstop.
- Watch for skinny-belly syndrome and stringy poop (often worms) and treat early; they are wild-leaning fish and can come in with parasites, so quarantine is worth the hassle.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Small, calm midwater schoolers like white cloud mountain minnows - they like the same cooler, well-oxygenated setup and nobody bothers anybody
- Danios (zebra, pearl, etc.) - active but not usually jerks, and they handle the current and temps these loaches tend to appreciate
- Hillstream-type fish like Sewellia and other peaceful river loaches - similar flow-and-rocks vibe, they mostly just graze and scoot around
- Small Corydoras (especially the cooler-tolerant ones) - generally fine as long as you have enough floor space and hiding spots so everyone can forage without piling up
- Otocinclus - good little algae grazers that keep to themselves, and they are not competition in the 'argue over a cave' way
- Smaller, peaceful barbs like rosy barbs (in a proper group) - they are usually too busy being barbs to mess with loaches, and they fit the temp range better than a lot of tropical picks
Avoid
- Big, pushy bottom fish like clown loaches or large Botia - they will outcompete Min County loaches for food and favorite spots and can stress them out
- Aggressive or territorial cichlids (convicts, most Africans, cranky Central Americans) - the loach will get chased off the bottom and never relax
- Nippy fin-biters like tiger barbs (especially in smaller groups) - they turn the tank into a constant hassle and everybody stays on edge
- Cold-blooded predators or big-mouthed hunters like larger puffers, snakeheads, or big catfish - if it fits, it disappears, and these loaches are not built for that game
Where they come from
Min County plateau loaches (Triplophysa minxianensis) come from high-elevation streams around Minxian County in Gansu, China. Think cold, fast, clear water running over rock and gravel, with seasonal swings and a lot of oxygen. If you keep that picture in your head while you set up the tank, you are already ahead of the game.
Most Triplophysa are built for current and oxygen-rich water. If your tank feels like a slow, warm community setup, this species is going to look miserable even if your test kit says everything is fine.
Setting up their tank
Give them floor space more than height. A longer tank lets you build a proper flow pattern and gives them room to cruise, spar, and claim little rock zones. I would not try them in anything smaller than a 30 gallon long style footprint, and bigger is easier to keep stable.
- Substrate: smooth sand or fine rounded gravel (they spend a lot of time down low and will wedge into gaps)
- Hardscape: piles of rounded river stones, slate, and driftwood roots for breaks in the flow
- Plants: optional - if you use them, pick tough stuff like Anubias, Bolbitis, or moss tied to rocks
- Lighting: moderate - they do not need it bright, and they will use shaded areas a lot
Flow and oxygen are the whole game. I run an oversize filter with a strong return, plus a powerhead pointed along the back wall so the current loops around the tank. Then I stack rocks so there are calmer pockets behind them. They will surf the current and then drop into the slack water to rest.
Build a few tight crevices and caves, but keep the entrances wide enough that a loach can back out without scraping. If you can snag your finger on a sharp edge, they can snag their fins or barbels.
Temperature-wise, keep them on the cool side. Room temp is usually fine, and I avoid running a heater unless your house drops really low. Warm, stagnant water is where these guys start fading. Aim for steady, clean water, lots of surface movement, and regular water changes.
Do not pair them with warm-water setups like discus or a typical tropical community running 78-80F. They might survive, but you will see faster breathing, less activity, and more random health issues.
What to feed them
They are not picky once they settle, but they do best on a mixed, meaty diet. In my tanks they spend a lot of time picking at biofilm and tiny stuff on the rocks, so you will get better results if the tank has some mature surfaces rather than looking scrubbed sterile all the time.
- Staples: sinking carnivore pellets, quality wafers, small sinking granules
- Frozen: bloodworms (as a treat), brine shrimp, daphnia, mysis, chopped krill
- Live (if you can): blackworms, grindal worms, live daphnia
- Extras: occasional blanched spinach or zucchini if yours will nibble (some do, some ignore it)
Feed after lights-out sometimes. They will absolutely eat in the day, but shy new fish often start feeding more confidently at dusk. If you keep them with fast midwater fish, use feeding rings for the top fish and drop sinking food in a few different spots so the loaches actually get their share.
If one is getting skinny, look at competition first. Plateau loaches can be bold, but they are still bottom feeders, and quick fish can starve them out without you noticing.
How they behave and who they get along with
Expect a lot of personality. They will perch on rocks facing into the flow, do quick little darts, and sort out a pecking order with short chases and wrestling matches. That looks dramatic, but it is usually normal loach business as long as nobody is getting pinned and shredded.
- Best kept in a group: I would start with 5-8 if the tank size allows
- They appreciate multiple hiding spots so the lower-ranked fish can get away
- They are generally not plant destroyers, but they will redecorate small stones
Tankmates should like cooler, well-oxygenated water and not be delicate about current. Good matches are other hillstream-type fish, some danios, white cloud mountain minnows, and similar temperate stream fish. Avoid slow fancy-finned fish and avoid anything that wants warm water.
Skip most shrimp. Some individuals ignore adult shrimp, but I have seen Triplophysa learn that shrimp are food, especially at night.
Breeding tips
Breeding Triplophysa minxianensis in home tanks is not something you can count on. A lot of plateau loaches have seasonal cues in the wild (cooling, warming, flow changes), and some species are suspected to migrate or spawn in specific habitats that are hard to copy in glass boxes.
That said, if you want to try, your best bet is to keep a bigger group, keep them very well fed, and mimic seasons. I have had the most "spawning-looking" behavior after a period of cooler water followed by a gradual warm-up and heavier feeding, plus a big water change with slightly cooler water to kick up activity.
- Keep a group so you have both sexes (sexing is not obvious in many Triplophysa)
- Offer lots of rockwork and some finer gravel zones where eggs could fall out of reach
- Use strong filtration and consider an egg-safe setup if you ever see eggs (adults may eat them)
If you do get eggs or fry, treat it like a stream fish project: immaculate water, gentle but constant flow, and tiny foods (infusoria, baby brine shrimp, microworms) once they are free-swimming.
Common problems to watch for
Most trouble with this species comes from keeping them like tropical loaches: too warm, not enough oxygen, and not enough current. They will often look fine for a while, then you get rapid breathing, hiding, and unexplained losses.
- Low oxygen: hanging at the surface, fast gill movement, hanging near filter outflow
- Heat stress: sluggish behavior, heavier breathing, poor appetite in warm spells
- Skin and barbel damage: from sharp gravel, rough rocks, or getting wedged in tight decor
- Internal parasites or wasting: hollow belly even though they still peck at food
- Ich and other spot issues: often shows up after shipping or temperature swings
Do not medicate blindly with heavy doses, especially with loaches. Many are more sensitive than scaled fish. If you need meds, go slow, add extra aeration, and watch them like a hawk.
Quarantine is worth your time with these. Wild-caught or poorly handled imports can come in thin and stressed, and once one starts sliding in a high-flow tank, it can be hard to turn around. In quarantine, I keep the water cool and very clean, run an air stone, and feed small portions multiple times a day until they fill out.
If you are seeing mystery issues, check the simple stuff first: surface agitation, actual tank temperature across the day, and whether detritus is building up in dead spots behind the rocks. A turkey baster and a quick siphon in those pockets can make a big difference.
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