
Hexi stone loach
Triplophysa hexiensis
Also known as: Hexi loach, Stone loach (Triplophysa)
This one is a little taxonomic curveball: Triplophysa rossoperegrinatorum (Prokofiev, 2001) is treated as a synonym of Triplophysa hexiensis in major references, so in the hobby you will basically want to think of it as T. hexiensis. Its a bottom-dwelling river loach from northern China that likes clean, well-oxygenated water and spends a lot of time hugging the substrate and darting between rocks.

The Hexi stone loach exhibits a slender, elongated body with mottled brown and yellow coloration, and prominent barbels on its chin.
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Quick Facts
Size
unknown
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
unknown
Origin
Asia (China)
Diet
Omnivore - sinking foods, small frozen/live foods, biofilm and microfauna
Water Parameters
16-22°C
6.5-8
3-15 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a long tank with real floor space, not a tall cube - sand or super-smooth small gravel is the move because they bulldoze around and will shred barbels on sharp stuff.
- They love flow and oxygen: add a powerhead or strong filter return plus plenty of rocks to break current, and keep the lid tight because they can wriggle up glass and hop out.
- Cool-to-mid temps work best (around 18-24 C / 64-75 F) with stable, clean water; they sulk fast if nitrates creep up, so get used to weekly water changes.
- Build a maze of rounded stones, crevices, and a couple of caves so each fish can claim a spot; bright lights with no cover makes them hide 24/7, so toss in plants or floaters to dim things down.
- Feed like a bottom grazer that still wants meat: sinking micro pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and the occasional live blackworm; spread food along the bottom so the bold one does not hog it all.
- Keep them with other cool-water, non-bully fish that ignore the bottom (danios, small barbs, white clouds) and avoid big cichlids, crayfish, and nippy fin-biters that will harass them in their caves.
- They do better in a small group (3-6) so the pecking order stays mild; in pairs one fish often gets chased off the best hideout and stops eating.
- Watch for barbel wear, red patches on the belly, and rapid breathing - that is usually dirty substrate, low oxygen, or too much heat; fixing flow and cleaning the bottom usually beats throwing meds at it.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Small, chill midwater schoolers like white clouds or smaller danios - they handle the cooler, brisk flow setup these loaches usually like, and nobody bothers anybody
- Peaceful tetras that are not fin-nippy (think ember tetra, glowlight tetra) - they stay up top/mid, the loaches stay busy on the bottom, nice separation of space
- Rasboras like harlequins or chili rasboras - calm vibes, they do not hog the bottom, and they are fine with a well-oxygenated tank
- Hillstream-type neighbors like hillstream loaches - similar love for flow, oxygen, smooth rocks, and a graze-y lifestyle (just give enough perches and hiding spots so nobody bickers)
- Small peaceful catfish like pygmy Corydoras - they are not pushy, and if you have lots of floor space and multiple feeding spots, they coexist fine
- Shrimp and snails (bigger, tougher ones especially) - hexi stone loaches are usually more of a micro-hunter and scavenger than a predator, but expect baby shrimp to occasionally go missing
Avoid
- Anything aggressive or territorial on the bottom like many cichlids - they stress the loaches out and will run them off food and hiding spots
- Big boisterous fish that bulldoze the substrate (larger barbs, big danios in cramped tanks, anything that acts like a vacuum cleaner at feeding time) - the loaches get outcompeted and hide more
- Fin-nippers like tiger barbs - the loaches are peaceful and do not want that constant chaos around them
- Predatory fish that see a slender bottom fish as a snack (larger gouramis, bigger loaches like clown loach in a mismatched setup, oddballs) - if it can fit a stone loach in its mouth, it will try
Where they come from
Hexi stone loaches (Triplophysa hexiensis) come from cool, fast-moving streams in China. Think rocky runs, lots of oxygen, and water that stays pretty clean year-round. That background explains almost everything about how they act in a tank: they love current, they hug the bottom, and they are at their best in a setup that feels like a streambed.
If you have ever kept other Triplophysa or gastromyzon-type hillstream fish, the vibe is similar: flow, rocks, oxygen, and stable water quality.
Setting up their tank
Give them floor space and current before you worry about tall water volume. A long tank with a strong filter and a powerhead is way more useful than a tall cube. They spend most of their life cruising the bottom, wedging between stones, and surfing the flow.
- Tank size: I would start at 20 gallons long for a small group, bigger if you want to mix species
- Substrate: smooth sand or fine gravel (skip sharp stuff - they belly-scoot a lot)
- Hardscape: rounded river rocks, cobbles, and a few larger stones to break line of sight
- Hides: rock piles with tight gaps, driftwood caves, or small clay tubes
- Flow and filtration: strong turnover and directional flow; prefilter sponge helps if you have small tankmates
- Oxygen: an airstone or aggressive surface agitation makes a difference with these fish
Temperature-wise, they do best on the cooler side of tropical. Room-temp setups work well if your house is not roasting. What they hate is warm, stagnant water with low oxygen.
Build the rockwork so food can not disappear into a black hole. A few flatter feeding areas (like slate or smooth stones) make feeding and cleanup way easier.
New tanks can be rough on stone loaches. They come from clean water and can react fast to ammonia/nitrite or big swings. I would not add them to a tank that is still settling in.
What to feed them
These are bottom feeders with a taste for meaty foods, not algae grazers like some people assume from the name. Mine did best on a mix of sinking prepared foods plus frozen/live stuff. If they are only picking at biofilm, they usually get skinny over time.
- Daily staples: sinking micro pellets, small sinking wafers, bottom-feeder granules
- Frozen: bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, mysis (chopped if pieces are big)
- Live (if you can get it): blackworms, grindal worms, live daphnia
- Occasional: repashy-style gel foods (great for getting calories into a shy group)
Feed after lights out sometimes. They are not strictly nocturnal, but they get bolder in dim light, and that is when the shy ones actually eat. If you keep them with fast midwater fish, you will need to target-feed the bottom.
Watch bellies, not just enthusiasm. A loach that rushes food but stays hollow behind the pectoral fins is losing the competition. Scatter food across a few spots so the bossy fish cannot guard it all.
How they behave and who they get along with
Hexi stone loaches are busy little bottom cruisers with a mild attitude most of the time. You will see short bursts of chasing and posturing, especially if you keep just one or two. In a group, the sparring is spread out and they settle into a pecking order.
- Best kept: small group (I like 5+ if the tank footprint allows)
- Good tankmates: cool-water danios, small barbs, white cloud mountain minnows, calmer minnows, other streamy fish that like flow
- Also works with: some hillstream loaches and small rheophilic catfish, as long as there are enough hides
- Avoid: slow fancy fish, long-finned fish, warm-water species, and super territorial bottom dwellers
They are not usually fin-nippers, but they can annoy slow fish by constantly being underfoot. With other bottom fish, the key is lots of cover and multiple feeding zones. If there is only one prime cave, somebody will claim it.
Tiny shrimp are a gamble. Adults might be ignored in a well-fed tank, but baby shrimp can look like snacks, especially at night.
Breeding tips
Breeding Triplophysa in home tanks is possible but not something I would call predictable. If you want to try, think like the seasons: cooler period, then a bump in temperature and lots of fresh water changes that mimic spring melt.
- Keep a group with both sexes (sexing is subtle until they mature)
- Strong flow and lots of oxygen seem to matter
- Heavy feeding on live/frozen foods for a few weeks helps condition them
- Try large, frequent water changes with slightly cooler water, then slowly warm back up
- Provide spawning sites like pebble beds, tight rock gaps, or a coarse gravel tray you can lift out
If eggs or fry show up, adults may snack on them. A removable spawning tray or a separate breeding setup gives you a better shot. Fry will want tiny live foods early on, like microworms and baby brine, plus infusoria/biofilm in a mature tank.
Do not beat yourself up if nothing happens. Many shipments are young fish, and some populations may have very specific triggers that are hard to copy at home.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with stone loaches come down to two things: low oxygen and not enough food making it to the bottom. They can look fine for weeks, then slowly waste away if they are always losing meals.
- Skinny fish despite feeding: food competition, too much current blowing food away, or internal parasites (especially in new imports)
- Gasping or hanging in high flow: oxygen is low, temp is too warm, or the tank is dirty
- Constant hiding and stress colors: not enough cover, too bright, or aggressive tankmates
- Scrapes and torn fins: sharp rocks, rough decor, or too-tight quarrels over one hide
- Ich and other spot diseases: often triggered by stress from shipping and warm temps
Be careful with meds and loaches. Many are sensitive to strong doses (especially copper). If you have to treat, read labels closely, increase aeration, and consider starting at a reduced dose unless the product specifically says it is loach-safe.
The best day-to-day habit is simple: keep the water clean and moving, and make sure every fish gets to eat. If you do those two things, Hexi stone loaches are hardy and really fun to watch once they settle in.
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