
Eastern mudminnow
Umbra pygmaea

The Eastern mudminnow has a slim body, brownish-green coloration with darker vertical bars, and a rounded, pronounced snout.
This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?
About the Eastern mudminnow
Eastern mudminnow (Umbra pygmaea) is a small freshwater umbrid native to eastern North America that inhabits slow, vegetated waters such as swamps, ponds, and ditches. It feeds mainly on insect larvae and small aquatic invertebrates and is noted for tolerance of low-oxygen wetland habitats.
Quick Facts
Size
15 cm
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
35 gallons
Lifespan
5-8 years
Origin
North America
Diet
Carnivore/invertivore - insect larvae, worms, small crustaceans; will take frozen/live and some prepared foods
Water Parameters
4-20°C
6-6.5
3-8 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 4-20°C in a 35 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them a tank with lots of cover - leaf litter, clumps of plants (real or fake), and wood. They chill in the shadows and act way bolder when they can duck into cover.
- They are jumpers when spooked, so use a tight lid and block any cable gaps. I have found them on the floor more than once after a night scare.
- They are a coolwater species; a commonly cited aquarium range is about 4-20°C. pH is sometimes given as ~6.0-6.5 in aquarium references (they can tolerate wider ranges in the wild), so prioritize stability and appropriate coolwater conditions. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.
- Feed like a micro-predator: frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, chopped earthworms, and small sinking carnivore pellets. They like food that hits the bottom, and they can be shy at first so target feed near their hideouts.
- Do not keep them with tiny tankmates you care about - small shrimp, fry, and nano fish will eventually look like snacks. Good companions are similarly sized, non-bully coolwater fish that will not outcompete them at feeding time.
- They can handle low oxygen better than most fish, but that is not a free pass to run a dirty tank. A sponge filter or gentle flow works great so they are not pinned to one side all day.
- Breeding is doable if you mimic spring: cool them a bit over winter, then warm up and do big water changes; they scatter eggs in plants. Pull the adults or protect the eggs because they will absolutely snack on them.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Darters (like fantail or rainbow darters) - quick, tough little natives that can handle a mudminnow being a bit grabby, and they are not slow enough to get picked off
- Minnows/shiners that are not tiny (golden shiners, bluntnose minnows, bigger fathead minnows) - stay midwater, fast, and usually too big to be seen as food
- Sticklebacks (where legal) - feisty but not usually helpless, and they tend to hold their own without being total fin-magnets
- Weather loaches - active bottom cruisers, not delicate, and they do not just sit there looking edible
- Hillstream loaches (only if you are running cool, high-oxygen flow) - they cling to surfaces and are hard for mudminnows to hassle, plus they are not slow floaty targets
- Small catfish that can take a bump (stonecats/madtoms or similar, where legal) - they are armored enough and mostly mind their own business
Avoid
- Tiny fish like neon tetras, endlers, or young livebearers - mudminnows are snacky opportunists and anything that fits in the mouth eventually gets tested
- Slow, fancy-finned stuff like bettas, guppies with big tails, or long-finned goldfish - the mudminnow is not a pure fin-nipper, but it will harass slow fish and go for easy bites
- Shrimp and small crayfish - shrimp disappear fast, and small crayfish get bullied or grabbed; big crayfish flip the script and can wreck the mudminnow
Where they come from
Eastern mudminnows are little swamp and ditch specialists from the coastal plain of the eastern US. You find them in weedy backwaters, cranberry bog-style ponds, slow creeks, and mucky marsh edges where the water can get warm, tea-colored, and low in oxygen.
That background explains basically everything about them in a tank: they like cover, they do fine in still or gentle flow, and they are tougher than they look as long as you keep the water clean and the feeding steady.
Setting up their tank
Give them space to poke around and a lot of structure. I have had the best luck starting at 20 gallons for a small group, mostly because you can build a nice maze of plants and wood without it feeling cramped.
- Tank size: 20 long is a great starting point for 3-5 fish; bigger is easier if you want tankmates
- Filtration: sponge filter or a HOB with the flow turned down; they do not need a river
- Substrate: sand or fine gravel; leaf litter on top if you like a natural look
- Hardscape: driftwood, root tangles, piles of branches, rock caves (smooth edges)
- Plants: anything that makes thickets - hornwort, anacharis, water sprite, java fern, floaters
They are escape artists in that annoying, surprising way. If there is a gap in the lid, they will eventually find it. A tight-fitting cover and plugging cable gaps saves you from the worst kind of floor discovery.
Use a lid. Seriously. Mudminnows will wedge up into tiny openings, especially at night or if they get spooked.
Water parameters are not a place to obsess with this species, but stability matters. Neutral-ish pH is fine, moderate hardness is fine, and they handle cooler water well. I keep mine in the upper 60s to low 70s F most of the year, and they act more relaxed and live longer than when kept warm all the time.
If you want more daytime activity, give them floaters and a few shaded zones, then feed in the same spot. They learn the routine and come out.
What to feed them
Think small predator with a big mouth for its size. Mine went crazy for live and frozen foods and were only so-so on dry food at first. Once they recognize pellets as food, they will take them, but you usually have to win them over.
- Staples: frozen bloodworms, blackworms, chopped earthworms, brine shrimp, mysis
- Live treats: daphnia, mosquito larvae (if you trust the source), small worms
- Dry options: sinking carnivore pellets, micro pellets, crushed high-protein sticks
- Avoid: feeder fish (parasites) and making them live on only flakes (they get skinny)
Feed smaller portions more often if you can. They have that 'hang out and ambush' vibe, so they may look like they are not hungry and then suddenly inhale three worms. Watch body shape: you want them solid, not pinched behind the head, and not football-round.
If they ignore pellets, try soaking them in thawed bloodworm juice, then drop them right next to cover. After a week or two, most figure it out.
How they behave and who they get along with
Mudminnows are curious and a little sneaky. They spend a lot of time hovering in plants, then scoot out to investigate anything new. They are not nonstop swimmers like danios, more like a mini pike that decided to live in the weeds.
They will eat anything that fits in their mouth, and their mouth fits more than you think. That is the main rule for tankmates. They are usually not aggressive in the 'chase and shred' sense, but predation is predation.
- Good tankmates: larger minnows/shiners that stay too big to swallow, peaceful sunfish-sized companions in big tanks, hardy coolwater species
- Use caution: slow fancy fish (they will nip sometimes), small catfish that might get outcompeted at feeding
- Not a match: tiny tetras/rasboras, small shrimp, guppy fry, anything bite-sized
If you keep more than one mudminnow, add lots of line-of-sight breaks. In a bare tank, one can decide it owns the whole place and the others will hide and lose weight.
I like them either solo with a really interesting scape, or in a group with heavy cover. Groups can work well as long as everyone gets food. Drop food in two different areas so the bossy one cannot park on the buffet.
Breeding tips
They can be bred in aquariums, and it is a fun project if you enjoy observing behavior. The big trigger tends to be seasonal rhythm: cooler period, then a warm-up with heavier feeding and lots of plant cover.
- Give them a winter: several weeks on the cool side with shorter light, then slowly warm and lengthen the photoperiod
- Feed hard before the warm-up: worms and frozen foods build condition fast
- Spawning media: dense plants, spawning mops, or leaf litter where eggs can stick and hide
- Remove adults or move eggs: they will snack if they find them
If you get fry, start small: infusoria-rich plant clumps help a lot, then move to baby brine shrimp and finely crushed foods. Keep the tank very clean but do not blast them with current.
Stuff a corner with hornwort or java moss and do not over-clean it. That messy, living tangle is basically a fry nursery.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with mudminnows come from three things: too warm for too long, not enough cover, or food that does not match what they want. Fix those and they are usually very forgiving fish.
- Jumping: nearly always a lid or gap problem
- Skinny fish: getting outcompeted in groups, or offered only flakes/pellets they are not actually eating
- Sulking and hiding all day: too bright, not enough plants/wood, or tankmates that are too active
- Bloat/constipation: overdoing dry foods; add more frozen/live and keep portions reasonable
- Ich after new additions: quarantine helps; they handle standard treatments, but go gentle with heat-based approaches
Do not rely on cranking temperature as your only ich plan with this species. They tolerate warmth, but pushing it high can stress them fast. Use meds carefully and focus on clean water and stable conditions.
If you are buying or collecting them (where legal), look for clear eyes, intact fins, and a fish that reacts to movement instead of just sitting on the bottom breathing hard. A healthy mudminnow is alert and does that quick, confident dart into cover.
Similar Species
Other freshwater peaceful species you might be interested in.

Ajuricaba tetra
Jupiaba ajuricaba
Jupiaba ajuricaba is a South American freshwater characin from the Amazon basin in Brazil (rio Negro, rio Solimões, and rio Tapajós basins). It reaches about 9.5 cm SL and is diagnosed by a narrow dark midlateral stripe, an elongated humeral spot, and an ocellated spot on the upper caudal-fin lobe. Wild specimens have been collected from blackwater forest streams and also oxbow-lake habitats.

Amapa tetra
Hyphessobrycon amapaensis
This is a tiny, super sleek little tetra with a clean red stripe down the side that really pops once its settled in. It does best in a planted, slightly tinted "creek-style" setup and looks way cooler when you keep a proper group so they school and flash that line together. If you can give it soft, slightly acidic water and a calm community, its an easy fish to fall for.

Anteridorsal Homatula loach
Homatula anteridorsalis
This is a benthic Chinese stream loach from Yunnan that lives right down on the bottom in clear, flowing water over gravel and rocks. Think of it as a "river tank" fish - it wants current, oxygen, and lots of surfaces to poke around on for bits of food and algae.

Armoured stickleback
Indostomus paradoxus
This is that goofy little "freshwater seahorse"-looking fish that just kind of perches and scoots around like a tiny armored twig. Its whole vibe is slow, sneaky micropredator - once its settled in, you will catch it stalking microfoods and doing these subtle little posture displays. The big trick is feeding: they do best when you can provide lots of small live foods in a calm, planted tank.

Arnegard's electric fish
Petrocephalus arnegardi
This is a little Congo River elephantfish (a weakly electric mormyrid) that cruises the lower parts of the tank and navigates the world with its electric sense. It stays small (around 9 cm) and has a clean silvery look with three dark marks that make it pretty easy to pick out among Petrocephalus.

Aroa twig catfish
Farlowella martini
Farlowella martini is one of those unreal-looking stick catfish that just vanishes the moment it parks itself on a branch. It is a super calm, slow-moving grazer that does best in a mature tank with lots of biofilm, gentle flow, and clean, oxygen-rich water - they are not great at competing at feeding time, so you kind of have to look out for them.
More to Explore
Discover more freshwater species.

American flagfish
Jordanella floridae
Jordanella floridae is that little Florida native with the red-and-cream striping that really does look like a tiny flag once a male colors up. They graze algae like champs (especially stringy/hair algae), but they have a bit of attitude - give them plants and space so the bossy behavior stays manageable. Bonus: the male guards the eggs and will actively fan them, which is pretty fun to watch.

Amur sculpin
Alpinocottus szanaga
This is a little coldwater sculpin from the Amur drainage - a bottom-hugging, rock-and-gravel fish that spends its day wedged under stones and darting out to grab food. Super cool behavior and attitude, but it is absolutely not a warm tropical community fish - it wants chilly, fast, oxygen-rich water and will bicker with other bottom fish.

Anitápolis livebearer
Jenynsia weitzmani
Jenynsia weitzmani is a freshwater anablepid livebearer endemic to southern Brazil (currently known only from the type locality near Anitápolis, Santa Catarina). Like other Jenynsia (onesided livebearers), reproduction involves lateralized mating morphology/behavior; aquarium care guidance is not well-documented for this species specifically.

Aracu-comum
Schizodon vittatus
Schizodon vittatus is a large South American anostomid (family Anostomidae). Reported maximum size is about 35 cm standard length; it is harvested/consumed in parts of Brazil and is not commonly covered by mainstream aquarium husbandry references.

Arraya's bluntnose knifefish
Brachyhypopomus arrayae
This is a weakly-electric South American knifefish that cruises around plants and root mats and does most of its business after lights-out. It is a pretty subtle-looking fish (more earthy browns than flashy colors), but the cool part is the whole electric-sense lifestyle and that smooth, hovering knifefish swim.

Arrowhead puffer
Pao suvattii
Pao suvattii is that sneaky Mekong puffer that likes to sit low and ambush food, and it has that super recognizable arrow/V pattern on its back. Gorgeous fish with tons of personality, but it is absolutely not a community guy - plan on a solo, species-only setup if you want everybody to stay in one piece.
Looking for other species?
