Piscora
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Red-lipped Wallaceochromis

Wallaceochromis rubrolabiatus

AI-generated illustration of Red-lipped Wallaceochromis
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Red-lipped Wallaceochromis exhibits a vibrant blue body with striking red lips and distinctive yellow-orange markings along its fins.

Freshwater

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About the Red-lipped Wallaceochromis

A small West African dwarf cichlid from the Kolente-Bandi system in Guinea, males sport striking red lips and both parents guard their brood in caves. It behaves like a krib relative but can get pushy when breeding, so give a pair room and cover. Wild populations are localized, and in aquaria it does best in soft, slightly acidic water. ([fishbase.org](https://www.fishbase.org/Summary/wallaceochromis-rubrolabiatus))

Also known as

Pelvicachromis sp. 'Bandi 2'Bandi 2Rotlippen-PelvicachromisDikya

Quick Facts

Size

10 cm

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

30 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

West Africa

Diet

Omnivore - live, frozen, and dry foods

Water Parameters

Temperature

23-27°C

pH

5-6.5

Hardness

1-5 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 23-27°C in a 30 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • House a pair in at least a 30-gallon tank with lots of cover and several caves; like kribs, they get pushy when breeding and need room to break line of sight.
  • Run soft, slightly acidic water: 23-27 C, pH 5-6.5, hardness 1-5 dGH; keep parameters stable.
  • Feed a varied omnivore diet of live or frozen fare (e.g., daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworms) plus quality pellets or flakes.
  • Choose tankmates that enjoy soft, acidic water and stay out of the caves; avoid other cave-spawning cichlids or bottom dwellers in tight quarters.
  • Expect cave spawning with both parents guarding eggs and fry; aggression spikes during this period, so extra space and visual barriers help.
  • They reach up to about 10 cm and are semi-aggressive, so crowding or sparse cover can trigger bullying.
  • Wild populations are localized in Guinea, so seek captive-bred fish when possible, and aim for long-term care of 3-5 years.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Small, peaceful West African tetras (Alestidae) kept in a group as midwater dithers; soft, acidic-water species that are quick enough to avoid breeding territories
  • Lampeye killifish for the surface (Poropanchax/Lacustricola spp.); soft-water tolerant, non-nippy, and they stay high in the tank away from cave sites
  • Upside-down catfish, stick to small, calm Synodontis like S. nigriventris; nocturnal hiders that do fine in soft water and do not provoke cave-guarding cichlids
  • Pencilfish (Nannostomus spp.) as gentle top-mid dithers in soft, acidic water; slim and fast enough to avoid skirmishes
  • Small hatchetfish (Carnegiella spp.) for the top; peaceful, soft-water surface dwellers that ignore cichlid territories
  • Otocinclus catfish group for algae control; soft-water specialists that keep to surfaces and are usually ignored by the pair

Avoid

  • Other cichlids in a small tank (including Pelvicachromis/Wallaceochromis or South American dwarfs like rams/Apistogramma); overlapping territories trigger fights when breeding
  • Cave-invading bottom dwellers that get chased and may raid eggs, e.g., Corydoras catfish and kuhli/other burrowing loaches
  • Fin-nippers and boisterous schooling fish (tiger barbs, larger danios, serpae-type tetras) that harass or outcompete calmer dithers
  • Tiny shrimp and micro fish that fit in a 10 cm cichlid's mouth (Neocaridina/Caridina shrimp, chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios) - likely to be eaten

Red-lipped Wallaceochromis (Wallaceochromis rubrolabiatus) is a small West African dwarf cichlid known for the male's vivid red lips and confident, krib-like behavior. Adults top out around 10 cm and live about 3-5 years. It is a freshwater species that prefers soft, slightly acidic water and suits aquarists comfortable with semi-aggressive cichlids.

Origin and natural habitat

This species is native to the Kolente-Bandi river system in Guinea, West Africa. Wild populations are localized. In nature and in aquaria it uses caves and tight cover, and both parents take an active role in guarding brood inside these shelters.

Aquarium setup and water conditions

A 30 US gallon tank is the minimum for a pair. Provide multiple caves (rock piles, inverted pots, or tight wood crevices), visual barriers, and open floor space so the fish can establish a territory without dominating the entire tank. Fine sand or small rounded gravel works well. Sturdy plants and driftwood help break sightlines and give subdominant fish places to slip away.

  • Temperature: 23-27 C
  • pH: 5.0-6.5
  • Hardness: 1-5 dGH (very soft to soft)

Set up more caves than you have cichlids. Extra options reduce fights and make pairing and brood care smoother.

Diet and feeding

An omnivore that accepts live, frozen, and quality dry foods. Offer a varied rotation: items like frozen or live baby brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, and small sinking pellets or granules formulated for cichlids. Feed modest portions and avoid letting rich foods dominate every meal.

Behaviour and tankmates

Semi-aggressive and very much a krib relative in attitude. A settled pair can be confident and will get pushy, especially around a chosen cave. Choose tankmates that are not easily bullied and that occupy different levels of the tank. Avoid similarly shaped cave-spawning cichlids in close quarters, and skip very timid fish that will be stressed by territorial displays.

Expect a sharp uptick in aggression during breeding. Provide space and line-of-sight breaks, and be prepared to move tankmates if necessary.

Breeding

Captive breeding is documented. Red-lipped Wallaceochromis are cave spawners; a bonded pair will select a tight shelter, lay eggs inside, and both parents will guard eggs and fry. Soft, slightly acidic water helps. Once free-swimming, the fry can be started on very small foods such as newly hatched brine shrimp and similarly sized fare. During this period, the parents intensify territorial defense, so keeping them alone or with carefully chosen, unobtrusive tankmates is safest.

Common problems and how to avoid them

  • Water too hard or alkaline: This species does best in soft, slightly acidic water. Keep within 1-5 dGH and pH 5.0-6.5.
  • Cramped layouts: Sparse decor funnels all traffic past the pair’s cave and triggers fights. Add caves, plants, and wood to create multiple paths and sight breaks.
  • Overstocking with similar cichlids: Look-alike, cave-dwelling species invite constant conflict in a 30-gallon tank.
  • Heavy feeding and poor maintenance: Rich foods and infrequent water changes degrade water quality. Offer varied meals and keep a steady maintenance routine.

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