Panda loach

Where they come from

Panda loaches (Yaoshania pachychilus) come from cool, fast, oxygen-rich streams in southern China. Think rocky creek beds, lots of current, and biofilm on every surface. That background explains basically everything about how they act in our tanks: they love flow, they graze all day, and they do way better in clean, well-oxygenated water than in a warm, still community setup.

Setting up their tank

If you set them up like a little river tank, panda loaches are a joy. If you toss them into a warm, low-flow planted community and hope for the best, they usually hang on for a while and then slowly fade. They are not delicate, they are just picky about the vibe.

• Tank size: I would treat 20 gallons as a comfortable starting point for a small group. A 10 can work short-term, but you will fight stability and algae/food competition.
• Group size: Keep 4-6+ if you can. Singles get weirdly shy or cranky.
• Substrate: Smooth sand or fine gravel so they can scoot around without wearing down their bellies.
• Hardscape: Rounded river stones, cobbles, and driftwood. Give them lots of surfaces to graze.
• Flow and oxygen: Aim for strong circulation. A canister or strong HOB plus a powerhead works great.
• Hiding spots: Tight rock gaps, small caves, and piles of smooth stones. They like to wedge themselves in.
• Temperature: Cool to mid range is your friend. I keep mine around 68-74F and they act more active and solid.
• Water: Neutral-ish is fine. The bigger deal is clean water and oxygen.

Plants are optional. They do fine in planted tanks, but I would not build the whole setup around delicate foreground plants. They are not plant-eaters, but they bulldoze around and will constantly be on top of things grazing.

What to feed them

Panda loaches are grazers first and foremost. A brand-new, spotless tank with no algae and no biofilm is basically a bare pantry to them, so you have to bring the food and also let the tank mature.

• Staples: Sinking micro pellets, bottom-feeder wafers, and small soft granules they can pick at.
• Frozen: Bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, cyclops. Great for conditioning and keeping weight on them.
• Veg and algae: Blanched zucchini/spinach, Repashy-style gel foods, and algae wafers (not as the only food, but they will work on them).
• Natural food: Let some rocks and wood grow a light coat of algae/biofilm. They will graze all day.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are busy little oddballs. You will see lots of perching, scooting, and short bursts of chasing. Most of the chasing is just rank sorting and food squabbles, especially if you keep them in a proper group with lots of hiding spots.

• Temperament: Generally peaceful, but they can be feisty with each other during feeding or when space is tight.
• Best tankmates: Cool-water, peaceful fish that like flow - danios, white clouds, small rasboras, hillstream loaches, and smaller barbs that are not nippy.
• Avoid: Slow long-finned fish, very timid species that will be stressed by constant motion, and warm-water fish that push you into higher temps.
• Bottom competition: Be careful with other strong bottom feeders (big plecos, large botia loaches). Panda loaches can get outcompeted.

Breeding tips

They have been bred in captivity, but it is not an every-hobbyist, every-month kind of fish. Still, you can stack the odds in your favor. The biggest triggers I have seen discussed (and what lines up with their streamy background) are lots of oxygen, heavy feeding, and seasonal-style water changes.

• Start with a group: 6-10 gives you better chances of both sexes and natural behavior.
• Conditioning: Feed heavy on frozen foods plus quality sinking foods for a few weeks.
• Simulate rains: Big cool water changes with strong flow and extra aeration.
• Spawning spots: Tight crevices, rock piles, and possibly a coarse sponge filter area to catch eggs/fry.
• Fry food: If you get fry, think tiny - infusoria/biofilm first, then microworms and baby brine shrimp.

Common problems to watch for

Most panda loach issues come down to three things: too warm, not enough oxygen/flow, or not enough food in a new tank. Fix the environment and they are usually pretty tough.

• Skinny fish and sunken bellies: Often underfeeding or competition at mealtimes. Spread food around and use more frequent small feedings.
• Hiding all the time: Can be stress from aggressive tankmates, too-bright bare tanks, or weak flow. Add rock cover and improve circulation.
• Rapid breathing at the surface: Low oxygen, high temperature, or dirty filter. Add aeration and check for clogged media.
• Ich and other parasites after purchase: Very common with new arrivals. Quarantine if you can, and keep water clean and cool while treating.
• Sensitivity to meds: Like many loaches, they can react poorly to heavy dosing. Go slow, increase aeration, and follow measured dosing rather than guessing.