Skunk loach

Where they come from

Skunk loaches (Yasuhikotakia morleti) come from Southeast Asia, mostly around Thailand and nearby river systems. Think warm, moving water with lots of roots, rocks, leaf litter, and hiding spots. They're built to poke around and wedge themselves into crevices, and they act like it in the aquarium too.

Setting up their tank

Give them space and give them cover. These are not delicate little bottom dwellers that melt into the background. They're active, bold, and they like to claim territory, so the layout matters more than chasing perfect numbers.

• Tank size: 30 gallons minimum for a small group, but 55+ gallons makes life a lot easier (less drama, more swimming room).
• Temp: mid to upper 70s F works well (around 75-80F).
• Flow and filtration: they appreciate decent flow and clean water. I always run more filtration than the bare minimum because they eat like little pigs.
• Substrate: sand is great, smooth gravel is fine. Skip sharp stuff - they like to scoot and dig.
• Hardscape: caves, rock piles, driftwood, and sight breaks. The goal is to stop them from seeing each other across the whole tank.
• Plants: they can work, but protect roots and expect some bulldozing. Tough plants (Java fern, Anubias) tied to wood/rock are your friend.

Keep the tank covered. They can surprise you with a jump, especially during night zoomies or if they get spooked during maintenance.

What to feed them

Skunk loaches are enthusiastic omnivores. They'll eat most things you put in, but they do best with a mix: something meaty, something quality as a staple, and occasional veggie matter. If you underfeed or feed only one type of food, you tend to see more nippy behavior.

• Staples: sinking pellets or wafers that have decent protein content.
• Frozen/live: bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, chopped shrimp, blackworms (if you can get them clean).
• Snacks: blanched zucchini or cucumber, shelled peas, and the occasional algae wafer.
• Feeding style: drop food in multiple spots so the pushy ones don't hog everything.

How they behave and who they get along with

This is the part people get surprised by. Skunk loaches are fun, but they can be spicy. They chase, they posture, and they will test tankmates. In a bigger tank with a group and lots of cover, they usually settle into a manageable pecking order.

Keeping just one is often worse. A lone skunk loach tends to focus all its attitude on everyone else. A group spreads the energy around, and you get more natural behavior.

• Group size: aim for 5 or more if you have the space. Smaller groups can work, but you may see one fish getting picked on.
• Good tankmates: quick, sturdy midwater fish (larger danios, barbs that can handle themselves), rainbowfish, and other robust community fish.
• Use caution with: slow fish, long fins (gouramis, bettas, fancy guppies), and shy species that get stressed by chasing.
• Bottom buddies: they can clash with other loaches and some catfish, especially in tight quarters. More floor space helps a lot.

Breeding tips

Breeding skunk loaches in home aquariums is uncommon. Most of what you see for sale are commercially produced, and hobbyist spawns are pretty rare. They don't give you obvious courtship like some fish, and even if they do spawn, raising the fry is a whole project.

If you want to try anyway, the best path is keeping a well-fed group in a big tank with lots of hiding spots, then doing big water changes with slightly cooler water to mimic rainy season. I wouldn't count on it, but it can trigger breeding behavior in some river fish.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues with skunk loaches come from two things: stress from bullying (or being bullied) and not-great water. They can be tough, but they don't like dirty water building up, and stressed fish get sick faster.

• Fin nipping and chasing: usually a tank size/layout problem or too small a group. Add sight breaks, add caves, or reconsider tankmates.
• Skinny fish: often one loach is getting outcompeted. Feed in multiple locations and watch who actually eats.
• Ich and other parasites: they can catch it like any community fish. Quarantine new arrivals if you can.
• Sensitivity to meds: loaches can react poorly to some medications, especially stronger doses. I start with a conservative dose and increase only if needed (and I keep oxygenation high).
• Scrapes and barbel damage: rough substrate or sharp decor can do it. Smooth things out and keep the bottom clean.